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My build

20K views 102 replies 16 participants last post by  draft6969 
#1 · (Edited)
Remmy's Build

Ok, so I wanted to build a pretty decent SQ set up and here is what Ive ordered (the main goodies) so far. The Subs and amp Ive already had as some of you may know and remember with my little neato box build. I still havent gotten the drawer put it but Ill get around to it. The build will start next weekend when all of the goodies have arrived. Enjoy and follow as I build!

Alpine CDA-117
Ah, the latest and greatest CD deck from the Japs. Its one of only a handful of units on the market that rock a 24bit Burr-Brown processor. I was going to nab the Pioneer DEX-P99RS but the Alpine has more features that I wanted... and WAY less expensive. Granted, the Pioneer is 10x better, Im just too lazy to sit there and tune it and also didnt like the output configuration either. But thats just me.


Alpine KTX-H100/PXA-H100 Audyssy IMPRINT sound managment
For those of you who dont know, this little box allows me to automatically obtain a reference curve in my whip. It will likely tune better than I can. Whats cool about it is you sit a mic in each chair at a time (including the center console and middle chair) and sit outside with a laptop and a finger up your nose while the IMPRINT does it all for you. Owners have sworn and died by this little guy.


Eclipse SC8355
Sadly, Fujitsu Ten pulled the plug on Eclipse because they couldnt keep up with Alpine and Pioneer. Shame really. However, they dropped these 3way components on their way out the door. They came in today. I am EXTREMELY impressed at the build quality, especially the way they connected the aluminum cone on the woofer to the spider (voice coil). Everything all the way down to little adapters in the kit are made of metal and are well crafted. They were definitely constructed by hand. The woofers are some of the most monstrous 5 inchers Ive ever seen in person. This goes for the crossovers, they arent dicking around either. This kit can be had (while they last) for pennies on the dollar. I bought two sets to go in every door.


Boston Acoustics GT-4001
This will drive the speakers since they are very power hungry (85db/85rms!). After heavy research and comparing for about a week I concluded this currently at its price with some online retailers it is the best bang for the buck.


Infinity 860W 8"
I scored these awhile back since I built my box for 8's not only for space, but I find 8's sound best for what I usually listen to. These little guys are actually monsters. Their price point is amazing as well. Best sub for the money I have ever bought... I think some of the cheapest I bought as well. Dont let the size fool you.


JBL GTO-7001
This is a fairly decent amp in its class as well. I didnt need a 'mad crazy yo' sq sub amp since Im only worried about whats accurate coming out o the doors. But honestly, paired with the Infinity's its sounds pretty damn good.




DISCUSS! :slapfight:
 
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#2 ·
To be honest.....Sweet system you are actually running. I like everything you are using.

however, your box...not a fan of it. You are wasting alot of space, you also will run into the problem of something puncturing the back.

Take the floor try out like I did. I made a custom floor tray I was able to put everything underneath!!

Otherwise, Sweet! :)
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thanks!

Puncturing the back? I dont get what you mean. The two 8's are sealed in their own enclosures. Ive had that box in and running the subs for over a year... the results are impressive. Itll be nice though when I get the drawer put in, ill be able to keep important stuff in theeir locked up and still be able to chuck stuff on top of the box with no worries :cool:


Here is a pic with more of the inside to look at.
 

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#4 ·
Will those subs be sticking out of those holes? Or are those holes closed and covered?

If you have future plans with the box for drawer and what not, then it sounds cool.

To be honest though, you would have more room if you took out the exsisting floor, and made your own floor, it goes down roughly 3 inches. I did that, helped me out a lot!!
 
#5 · (Edited)
OH! Haha, what you see there is actually flushed with mesh grills. I was going to take out the floor as well but that is where the monster BA amp is going. Also, I did that with the box in the even I needed more room and could take it out easily. The back has 5 way binding posts and connects with banana plugs. I thought it out well trust me. lol.

Here is a close up with the old Dayton subs I had (couldnt handle the box and ripped itself apart)

 
#8 ·
so how nervous were you when you driled through your door panel? :eek:
looks good though, cant wait to see the finished install.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Fairly, but calm, cool, and collected. ;)

My chief let me borrow his hole-saw kit (worth its weight in gold btw) and I went on the back side of the panels with a sharpie. I measured to my likings and wrote them down for both doors. One fatal problem I made was the picture you see is the right front door. Well, my dumbass forgot all about the seat memory button on the drivers door! For about an hour I sat down with a dremel carefully shaving away. I even had to cut into the button a little bit. Long story short, it worked out quite nicely and even looks factory. Im addressing the rear doors tomorrow. They should be a lot easier... but I swear to god if I have to deal with those same door jams junction clips Im going to flip out.

For those that dont know, where the jam is on the body of the Jeep is a plastic (and amazingly resilient) clip that acts as a clipped in holder for wiring clips. These effing things took me an hour each just so I could cut them off to be able to unclip them only to THEN work on wiring the after market wiring through.

Side note: the build quality of the 'premium' boston 6x9's are lame. Thin, cheap paper woofers with foam. Looks like something out of the rear deck of a Honda Civic.

Thank god I have a good idea what I am doing, this install is NOT for the novice.
 
#10 ·
This is a seriously sick build my friend. Definitely going with all great equipment. Are you putting in any sound deading material? FYI - I have some rattle in my back passenger side panels where the two panels meet up behind the rear side window. Keep up the great work! And post pics as you go!!!
 
#11 ·
Thanks!
Yes, I do have deadening. Ive always used the (tar based) roofing stuff found in hardwares stores because its cheap as shit and gets the job done. Its also very very malleable. You can see the material I used to doctor up the Metra 6x9 adapter in the above picture. I lined the material to the inside of the door panel skin behind the woofers as well.

I am also aware of the same noise in the rear doors and this is my excuse to address them. I think its the chrome trim on the outside of the door thats causing the pproblem. I plan on lining the inside of the door skins of the rear doors as well.
 
#15 ·
LOVE THE BUILD MAN! All good stuff and the install looks clean! Glad to see you know what youre doing too and not doing some hack job lol! I'm sure youre going to have great results! Let us know when you get powered up and how it sounds, I want some reviews of those 3 ways as Im looking at a new set of components for my front doors.

I hate the 6x9 size since there are hardly and good 6x9 component worth my time/$ so Im going to go 6.5" components all day. Im between some Focal 6.5" right now and some nice Alpine Type X pros that I saw. I know Focal is hard to beat besides like Rainbow from overseas and a few other brands so that may be route I end up.

Also love the sound deadening you did, got myself some dynamat real cheap off Amazon, hoping it lives up to its rep fingers x'ed!
 
#16 ·
Thanks!

You bet your ass Ill be doing a review on the 3-way's. FYI, theyre on sonicelectronix.com right now for $150 a set! They used to be $700 retail :eek: so you might want to reconsider the Focal's

But if you want to get really crazy I would sugest DLS and Morel.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Well hurry and get some more pics up!!!! lol i cant wait to see how this ends. now you had the factory BA system correct? did you have to rewire the whole jeep and just discard the factory amp, since all the factory speaker wires go through the factory amp.
 
#18 ·
^^^x2.....more pics!!!
 
#20 ·
You ran that for all your door and dash speakers:eek: must have been a #@$ to run all that.
 
#21 ·
Yea, I ran all new wires to my front doors and dash as well. The doors were a pain in the *$&% till I figure out I didn't need to pop out the white plastic moldings in the door, then trying to get the one side back in took forever as well.

Remmy - FYI when you take out the passenger side seat, make sure to disconnect the battery first otherwise when you put it back in you could end up with the stupid seat belt light coming on when no one is in the passenger seat, then you have to take back to the dealership so the can recalibrate the seat.
 
#23 ·
Yea, I ran all new wires to my front doors and dash as well. The doors were a pain in the *$&% till I figure out I didn't need to pop out the white plastic moldings in the door, then trying to get the one side back in took forever as well.

Remmy - FYI when you take out the passenger side seat, make sure to disconnect the battery first otherwise when you put it back in you could end up with the stupid seat belt light coming on when no one is in the passenger seat, then you have to take back to the dealership so the can recalibrate the seat.
Thanks for the heads up. I dont plan on taking seats out though.

But those plastic clips!!! I was talking about that earlier. HOLY CRAP those things were a pain in the ass. I took my dremel and cut them off. The rubber boot does just as good as a job with out them. Who the hell engineered that!? They essentially made a plastic clip for plastic clips. For those of you who havent dealt with this, you cant run new wires without doing this.
 
#22 ·
Recalibrate the seats? Cars have become way to advanced when the seats have to be calibrated. LOL. Can you imagine saying that back in the 60's
 
#24 ·
I just pushed the wires through one of the open slots in them and was done. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THEM!!!! Total PIA to put them back in!

I had to remove the seats to get the wires to the back. There's like a black plastic tunnel which you can nicely run the wires through, but you need to room to open it up, hence taking the seat out. I felt if I tried to run the wires over it, it would look horrible or just not work. Definely needed to do it for the 0 gauge power wire.

And yea draft, NEVER would think that the seat would have to be calibrated, but I guess these are the days we live in. FYI- if you forget to disconnect the batter first and the light does come on randomly, just try moving the seat all the back and forward a few times and it should go away.
 
#25 ·
I think mine might be slightly different. I had TWO wire clips that blocked entry to its entirety. I couldnt pass any wires unless I removed that effing plastic clip. I was about to use the factory wire anyway... besides, even if I wanted to I wouldnt have been able to wire the other 2 speakers since there isnt any room to mount the xover in the door (its kinda big). I literally cut the plastic sleeve off.
 
#28 ·
Thats good, since i cant hook mine up i need to live vicariously through other peoples installs.:)

sounds good :thumbsup: i wish i had the $$ for a sub/amp
you can always find money for car audio:D. if you ever need any i have too many amps and subs laying around that i could hook you up with for cheap.;)
 
#29 ·
Update:

Finished the front door entirely with xovers wired as well. Ive run the front door wiring to the rear and the 6 channel rcas. I had a good idea which worked well: I used electrcal tape and wrapped it around the left front speaker wire with the 6 channel rca plugs which helped me big time on running it to the back of the jeep.

I actually should have this done tomorrow. I need to do the back doors, amp wiring, mount BA amp and everything should be history :)
 
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