This will be a slow work in progress, as I work in a 100% commission job.
First thing going in will be the Clarion VX400.
A double-DIN touchscreen is a must for me, as is iPhone integration. This one has built-in Bluetooth, which is another feature I really need for mobile calls. I can add on the navi if I want it, but the iPhone is more than adequate in that regard. Can also add on HD, SiriusXM, and a rear camera for reasonably cheap. And the price is pretty damn good at $365 shipped. Of course I will need to get the navi bezel as well...
I've never had a vehicle with dash speakers before, so this is new to me. I've always done components up front with tweeters mounted to the sail panel. After checking out Matt's threads extensively, I will most likely do something similar, with a full-range in the dash and a beefy mid driver in the door. Maybe just a 2-way in the rear doors.
As far as a sub goes, I won't be able to give up much cargo space, so something like a Stealthbox may be my only shot. I don't have nearly enough time or expertise to build/fiberglass something like that myself, so I may just have to pony up the dough.
So the plan right now is headunit, then speakers, then an amp. By the time I'm ready to add the amp, I should know what I'm doing sub-wise, so I'll know whether to go with a 4- or 5-channel.
So I sold an apartment building, so now I get to spend money.
Ordered the Clarion and Nav bezel.
Could anyone save me the trouble of looking up the wiring harness I need? 2006 Laredo with the standard stereo. There's a few out there so I'm not entirely sure.
With steering wheel controlls and no amp it's Metra Electronics XSVI-6502-SWC, and you might need an Axxess Metra ASWC OEM Steering Wheel Control Adapter. I can't remember right now.
That harness will also have your VSS, parking brake, and reverse wires in there too when plugged into the factory harness.
No, stay away from those. The mildly high Le (@ 1.0) and low QTS (@ .26) means they'll need an enclosure. Look for drivers with an Le below .8 and QTS above .6 - those will work better in a door (IB/large sealed).
Finally got a chance to throw this thing in today.
Removing the stock stereo:
Running the iPhone cord:
Connecting the harness:
Installing the new unit:
So the receiver is installed and powers on, but just one problem... no audio through the speakers. I used the Metra XSVI-6502 (this one, to be exact), and wired everything properly. After reading the harness notes, I thought it might have been for not "initializing" the harness, by turning the ignition on for 30 seconds, then off. I did this, still nothing.
I'm almost 100% sure that I don't have a factory amp, just the standard bottom-of-the-line radio. But man, I can't for the life of me figure this out. Any ideas? Similar problems?
Looks great, I ran into the exact same problem wiring up my buddy's head unit and it ended up being a fallacy in the wiring. The blue and blue/white wire in the harness were backwards.
I dunno what harness your using but this was a schosche harness I had the trouble with....Good luck
Well sure enough, my worst fears were true. I apparently have one of the 1% of Laredos with the BA amp. Awesome.
I'm not wasting 130 bucks on a PAC harness, I'll just spend 100 more and get a new amp. That was to be phase III down the road, but I guess we'll just be moving it up, now won't we?
Where did you get that source? Im looking for something like that myself...
Also... how can you tell if you have the integrated amp? I'm not planning to run an amp for speakers, I'll replace them and convert the front 6x8(or 9) to 6.5in comps and have the source power them.
This is now the cheapest online price (still $365), but I'm not sure how reputable that retailer is.
I think the only way to check for the BA amp is just to unscrew and pull back your driver-side quarter panel and have a look-see. Check the instructions on wkjeeps.com for the interior trim removal. Just be sure you get the right harness to activate the factory amp (the PAC one, not the Metra).
I believe the KnuKonceptz power wire is 18', but anywhere from 17-20' should work for our trucks (16' from nose to tail).
Could anybody advise the best (only?) place to run power through the firewall on a 2006 WK Laredo 4.7L? I'd prefer not to drill, and I haven't gotten down there yet. So a heads up on a grommet to look for would be much appreciated.
Cool beans man, thanks. Amp's not getting here until Tuesday, so realistically that ain't happening until next weekend. But I might try to do some pre-flight stuff this weekend like running some wires and other prep.
I had a wonderful day trying to get my 4 AWG power lead through the firewall. I ended up using the grommet next to the one for the hood release. I have no clue what that wire is for, but man was that a bitch.
First I spent about an hour spinning my wheels because I was parked on a busy street, so I could only get at my driver's side for like 20 second intervals. I eventually realized I needed to relocate.
Parked with driver side facing the curb and got down to business. Man is that a small area to work in. After what felt like forever, I got the power through and mated up to the battery. Got the wire run to the back, and then it was time to get a shower so I can go get drunk. So I'll pick up the rest tomorrow.
Wanted to get pics but I was pretty damn frustrated. Should have some good stuff tomorrow, as I finalize installing the amp, headunit, and speaker wire. Now for alcohol...
Well the one-two punch of hangover and rainy day hampered my progress today. I hoped to finish up, but I was only able to get all my wires run to the rear. Got my holes drilled in the cargo hatch and ran the wires through. Ran out of daylight before I could get the amp in there. Hopefully I can get it finished up tomorrow night.
Amp and headunit installed and working perfectly. Some pics:
Wires run into loadfloor:
Wires hooked up and amp mounted:
Powered on:
Had to mount it with the logo upside down, but oh well:
Here's the source once again:
I've got the front two channels pushing the dash speakers and the rear channels pushing the front door speakers. Still have the BA speakers in there for now, and some new drivers will be the next upgrade down the road.
Right now I have the crossovers set at above 320Hz for the dash, below 320Hz for the doors.
Got it tuned a little bit, but will play with it some more as I get more seat time.
It sounds sooooo much better than stock. Doors rattle a bit, but I can deal with it until I upgrade the speakers.
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