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WK 10" Enclosure Dimensions

22K views 167 replies 17 participants last post by  99limited 
#1 · (Edited)
Here is an example enclosure that fits into the WK cargo area flush with the angled floor as well as the angled rear seats.


  • This enclosure is meant to house woofers up to 10 inches. The design can be modified to house a 12 inch woofer
  • The total (gross) volume of this particular enclosure is 1.145 ft^3
  • This design uses 3/4 inch stock
  • Note the mounting depth when shopping for woofers: I wouldn't go any bigger than 5.5 inches with this design
  • When selecting a woofer(s) remember to account for displacement
  • Keep in mind, any bracing will reduce the volume of the enclosure
  • This design allows the owner to retain the ability to use the factory cargo tray
  • This design allows the owner to retain the ability to use the cargo shade

Wing template PDF is attached at the bottom of this post.

















 

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#10 ·
Yeah, it shouldn't be too hard. I measured while I was out there and you can still make it so you can fit a 12" driver and still retain the cargo shade.

Just make sure that you have enough airspace for whatever sub(s) you go with.
 
#11 · (Edited)
My subs have a 6 1/8" mounting depth. Mounting hole needs to be 11 11/16". Overall diameter + the mounting ring is 12 11/16".

I think I'd just add like 1 or 1.25" to the top (red) and bottom (blue) pieces, and make the whole thing about 1.5" taller.

Looking up what kind of volume my subs need now.

Found it - recommended volume for a sealed box is .85 ft^3. Does that double with two subs?
 
#13 ·
Yeah, definitely watch out for mounting depth. The vent pole (on the back of the subs magnet) needs about 1-1.5 inches of breathing room.

Yes, volume doubles with adding another. You may want to consider extending the enclosure outwards, but then you'd have to account for the angle of the floor changing to flat (from incline) - that would kinda suck.

about freakin damn time! LOL kidding..

Thanks for the info's Matt, I too am going to copy it exactly. You used MDF 3/4'' correct? How much do you recall it cost at home depot/lowes?

Maybe you could add some more info for us that are going to be first time box builders in the near future! Like.. what material is used to seal the seams on the inside, and what I am really interested in is about the install of the speaker wire terminals and the install of those. Can those be had from say, radio shack?
haha, no prob Chris!

Yes, I used 3/4 MDF - it's about 20-30 bucks for a sheet at the local hardware store. I think Lowes sells quarter sheets, so that may be easier for some to work with.

Yeah, I'll add some more info to the original post about consteruction for sure! I'll probably get to it tomorrow. I'll let ya know when it's been added.
 
#12 ·
about freakin damn time! LOL kidding..

Thanks for the info's Matt, I too am going to copy it exactly. You used MDF 3/4'' correct? How much do you recall it cost at home depot/lowes?

Maybe you could add some more info for us that are going to be first time box builders in the near future! Like.. what material is used to seal the seams on the inside, and what I am really interested in is about the install of the speaker wire terminals and the install of those. Can those be had from say, radio shack?
 
#23 ·
Nah I understand what you mean. Sounds like a plan, now im sure those of us that are going to replicate the exact size will be off by a little here and there. Do you think it'll make a really big deal? I for one have already changed my mind from that CVR 12 we talked about, and am going to go with a CVR 10 so I can still use the cargo cover and tray for the amp.
 
#24 ·
Lets just say it pays to be as exact as you can... you can get away with 1/16", but it gets tough once you hit the "off by" 1/8" mark. What I do is make any necessary changes after I cut each face. For example, if I cut a piece and it happens to be off slightly, I'll see if I can change any future cuts to accommodate the slight change. If not, screws can usually bend it close and then the glue + silicone can usually make it right. As I told Frank, triple check EVERY SINGLE MEASUREMENT BEFORE YOU CUT! I've caught things before on check number 3. MDF is pretty cheap, so if you screw up you can always run up to Lowes and get a quarter sheet for 5 bucks.
 
#29 ·
I did some rough sketches today using graph paper, then did this in paint



At the center of the box I would have somewhere around 8" of mounting depth which is enough for the 6.125" required + 1.5" for the pole vent.
 
#32 · (Edited)
I'm not all too concerned with having the cargo shade... I'm really just more concerned with gaining some cargo space back.

To make it easier I might just not worry about the little flat section at the bottom and run a straight board there and there will just be a small gap underneath the box.
 
#33 ·
very nice....

i want to go the steathbox route, but make the box instead. I would like to glass in 1 10" so it doesnt take up any of the cargo room.
Nice! Yeah, I think down the road when I decide to build a new stereo I'll go with a glassed enclosure in the quarter panel.

I'm not all too concerned with having the cargo shade... I'm really just more concerned with gaining some cargo space back.
Yeah, I hear ya. Go with what you have then, should be perfect!
 
#37 ·
I'm making this box right now. Can you give me any angles to work with?
 
#38 ·
Unfortunately I don't own a protractor (I know, lol), so I couldn't get any angle measurements. The green face is the most difficult piece without using any angles, but if you get the angle cut on the red face, line up a piece of wood against that angle, then draw a line across that wood, then you get your green face angle - I hope that made sense, lol.
 
#39 ·
Nevermind. Lol I didn't see the inside specs. I'll be done this in a couple minutes. I'll post pics!
 
#42 ·
Haha the end pieces took a little working on the sander to fit nice and tight. But it's looking good now. Did you use 1 1/4" screws? How many should I be putting in? And what type of caulking do I use? Lol

sorry. It's my first speaker box
 
#43 ·
I do apologize, as I did want to have construction details (a how-to) up by now, but between school wrapping up and getting ready to move, it's been a bit tough to find time to add to this.

Anyways, I used 1 1/4" drywall screws - if you check out one of the pics above, there's a full frontal shot of the screws on the front face. Stay about 3 inches away from any edges as you do not want to split the wood. There's no need for a lot of screws and it can actually weaken the enclosure, so use them sparingly. Also, pre-drill pilot holes, though I'm sure you already knew this. Keep in mind that the screws are only used to hold the faces in place while the wood clue bonds/cures. I always remove the screws after the glue has had enough time to cure. The wood glue bond is stronger than that of the screws.

As for caulking/sealing... I usually use wood glue along the interior seems of the enclosure. You can use caulk or silicone, but I'd stay away from it. It's been theorized to eat away at a sub woofers soft parts over time.

...and yes, those two side faces were a bitch to get right, lol. Sander FTFMW!


EDIT - this pic

 
#44 ·
Sweet!

Ya I knew to keep the screws back a bit and not to over do it with them, I can't wait to have all my cargo space back!!!

I think I might router in a round-over on the top face edge. I think it will blend in nice once I wrap the carpet. What do you think? Too much?
 
#45 ·
Yeah, I forgot you are inclined in the carpentry department, so you know what you're doing.

Cargo space FTW! What sub woofer(s) do you plan on loading her up with?

I think a 1/4" or 1/2" round-over would be sweet across the top!! I really need to invest in a router (among other decent tools, lol).

If you want to wait to carpet it, I'll have the flush mount panels scanned into a PDF document in the near future. Up to you though. Looking forward to the pics Joel!!!
 
#47 · (Edited)
It took me a sec to remember, lol. But I just used some steel brackets (one 90 degree and one straight) and just used little 1/2" screws to temp mount them to the enclosure and used them as a guide so the "wing" would sit straight. But yes, just glue, and a little pressure from my hand for a few minutes.


 
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