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  #13  
Old 03-10-2014, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by DeucesALLin View Post
Are everything UNDER the heads, and will include cam on OHV setups. However OHC setups the cams come with the heads usually.

And when we are talking about blocks, for those who might want the experience of building at least some of it themselves:

A BARE BLOCK is just that, a bare block. If it is a NEW block, is may or may not be MACHINED. If it is a used block, it is called SEASONED. Either way, a block is EMPTY. No pistons or crank.

Freeze plugs are extra.

Machining is extra.

Deckplating and fixture honing is extra.

A "Short Block" is everything that CANNOT BE UNBOLTED.

A "Long Block" is the BLOCk, HEADS and CAM.CAMS

A CUTOUT is a running engine. complete, torched out of a wreck.

A PULLOUT is a runing engine unbolted from a wreck.
Since when cant a cam and rotating assembly not unboltable? And you missed a term

Turnkey: complete engine with ecu and accessories and is plug n play. Drop it in and go.

Like I said. I have seen short blocks listed as such and were just the block, nothing else. Everything on a short block can be unbolted.
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  #14  
Old 03-11-2014, 07:01 AM
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Re: 306,000 miles...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strongjeff View Post
Since when cant a cam and rotating assembly not unboltable? And you missed a term

Turnkey: complete engine with ecu and accessories and is plug n play. Drop it in and go.

Like I said. I have seen short blocks listed as such and were just the block, nothing else. Everything on a short block can be unbolted.
^^^ No you haven't.

And whats the point here? The ENTIRE hotrodding community has used these terms since the old Y-block Fords, and if someone wants to KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT they are probably going to adhere to those norms.

However if someone wants to call a machine shop or engine yard and argue with the phone guy citing your logic: They get what they deserve.
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  #15  
Old 03-11-2014, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DeucesALLin View Post

^^^ No you haven't.

And whats the point here? The ENTIRE hotrodding community has used these terms since the old Y-block Fords, and if someone wants to KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT they are probably going to adhere to those norms.

However if someone wants to call a machine shop or engine yard and argue with the phone guy citing your logic: They get what they deserve.
How the f* are you gonna sit there and tell me what I have and havent seen. Guy you must be crazy to thing I havent had time around engines. What do you think I do for a living? I have rebuilt engines in my time both ford and chevy as well as a couple of pontiac 3.8's. I will argue my point all day. You game?
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  #16  
Old 03-11-2014, 08:25 AM
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Re: 306,000 miles...

He guys, take it easy. We are all here to learn from each other.
I always wondered what the term longblock and shortblock meant, but was too lasy to check it out.
Just did some googling on it and wikipedia tells it like this:

Short block is an automotive term describing an engine sub-assembly.
A short block is the portion of the cylinder block below the head gasket but above the oil pan. An in-block cam engine will also include the camshaft and timing gear and any balance shafts. The overhead cam style of engine will not include the aforementioned parts on the shortblock.
A shortblock is usually purchased as a quicker way to rebuild an engine, rather than do all the work separately. This is more convenient and possibly more cost effective. Short blocks purchased in this way may also have undergone performance improving engine work. Machine shop work can increase performance by boring the engine (increasing the diameter of the cylinders (which increases internal volume), balancing the rotating assemblies (such as the crankshaft), installing a higher performance camshaft, etc. When engines are bored they require larger pistons and new piston rings. This kind of work can be done by amateurs (sometimes referred to as "shade tree mechanics," or can be done by professional machine shops or engine rebuilders.
A short block is considered destroyed when it either warps or cracks, often due to overheating.

It is not a shame to discover that we are (sometimes) wrong. Its just the way we are, living and learning each day a bit more.
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  #17  
Old 03-11-2014, 08:45 AM
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Re: 306,000 miles...

Thanks for the research Frank. I was thinking of tossing this to flammables but if we can get back to the original topic from the OP I will leave it alone.
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  #18  
Old 03-11-2014, 09:11 AM
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Re: 306,000 miles...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Jeep View Post
... on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine. It still runs decent but im starting to get a rough idle at stop lights while in drive. I also hear some knocking and got a couple of oil leaks.
At first I made the decision to try to make it to 500,000 without a rebuild or engine replacement, but i think i might just do it at 350,000.

I dont know if i should buy a re-manufactured engine or just hire a mechanic to do a complete rebuild. I'm kinda on a budget so im leaning towards a rebuild. Also, does anyone know a reputable mechanic in the Dallas/Ft Worth area that can do it and maybe customize the engine a bit? Higher compression ratios, etc.
Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.
If you are on a budget, and your blessed to have the 4.0 I would consider doing it yourself. There are a MILLION builds on the 4.0 from strokers to EASY junkyard turbo setups. Typically your going to spend about $10/hp with turnkeys and kits... much less with a self rebuild.

FWIW, heres what I would do:

Buy a RUNNING 4.0L and and engine stand. Tear it down myself while researching the build I want, and eventually take the bare block and head to the machine shop along with the cheapo stroker kit I woould order. I would get the block fully machined, and either have my old crank and rods reworked or install above mentioned stroker assembly. I would pay to have it all balanced.

The head would be rebuilt, I would do all new springs, oversized valves, and have it set up for low compression. I would use a cast piston, and wouldnt upgrade ANYTHING to forged.

You could PROBABLY get a budget stroker assy. made by a Dallas shop by offset grinding the crank- or step up to buying a shortblock or even long block.

Honestly, if I had to do a rebuild on my older WJ I would just spend buy another low mile vehicle for spares. But WTF do I know, right?
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  #19  
Old 03-16-2014, 04:17 PM
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Thanks for the reply everyone. I've decided to buy a reman long block from city motor supply in the Dallas area. Ill probably pull the trigger in about 6 to 8 months. It's gonna run about $1,400 for the block and another $650 to pay my mechanic for the swap. Id love a DIY stroker but I just don't have the time or space to do it. It's ok though. A reman would be good enough for me. What I would really love is a 2011 or 2012 JGC.

Before the engine swap though, I'm gonna upgrade the throttle body and exhaust.
I'm throwing in a fast man 62 mm throttle body and a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler. I don't want anything to load.
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  #20  
Old 03-18-2014, 06:03 PM
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Re: 306,000 miles...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Jeep View Post
Thanks for the reply everyone. I've decided to buy a reman long block from city motor supply in the Dallas area. Ill probably pull the trigger in about 6 to 8 months. It's gonna run about $1,400 for the block and another $650 to pay my mechanic for the swap. Id love a DIY stroker but I just don't have the time or space to do it. It's ok though. A reman would be good enough for me. What I would really love is a 2011 or 2012 JGC.

Before the engine swap though, I'm gonna upgrade the throttle body and exhaust.
I'm throwing in a fast man 62 mm throttle body and a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler. I don't want anything to load.
Be sure to run Heavy zinc oil in that 4.0L for ever lol
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  #21  
Old 03-18-2014, 07:04 PM
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Re: 306,000 miles...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeucesALLin View Post
If you are on a budget, and your blessed to have the 4.0 I would consider doing it yourself. There are a MILLION builds on the 4.0 from strokers to EASY junkyard turbo setups. Typically your going to spend about $10/hp with turnkeys and kits... much less with a self rebuild.

FWIW, heres what I would do:

Buy a RUNNING 4.0L and and engine stand. Tear it down myself while researching the build I want, and eventually take the bare block and head to the machine shop along with the cheapo stroker kit I woould order. I would get the block fully machined, and either have my old crank and rods reworked or install above mentioned stroker assembly. I would pay to have it all balanced.

The head would be rebuilt, I would do all new springs, oversized valves, and have it set up for low compression. I would use a cast piston, and wouldnt upgrade ANYTHING to forged.

You could PROBABLY get a budget stroker assy. made by a Dallas shop by offset grinding the crank- or step up to buying a shortblock or even long block.

Honestly, if I had to do a rebuild on my older WJ I would just spend buy another low mile vehicle for spares. But WTF do I know, right?
The only issue I would like to point out is that many of the 4.0L had head issues. Make sure you check the casting number on the "new" head before you start doing all the work on it.
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  #22  
Old 03-26-2014, 09:04 PM
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Re: 306,000 miles...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepMe View Post
The only issue I would like to point out is that many of the 4.0L had head issues. Make sure you check the casting number on the "new" head before you start doing all the work on it.
Or go with one of these aluminum heads
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  #23  
Old 03-27-2014, 05:11 AM
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Re: 306,000 miles...

Congrats on the milage! Im at 236K on my XJ right now. The rough idle might be a couple easy thing to swap out. Possibly TPS- throttle position sensor, CPS-cam position sensor, MAP sensor....etc. Try taking the trottle body off and clean the sensors on it and see if that makes a difference. That would be an easy start. Id love to see you hit 500K....lol. Also check out other forums where they have alot of info on the 4.0 like cherokeeforun, naxja, jeepforum...etc. Alot of info there because they all have 4.0's......
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  #24  
Old 03-27-2014, 12:45 PM
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Re: 306,000 miles...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonts View Post
Or go with one of these aluminum heads
$2k for an aluminum head for the 4.0L?
That head alone costs way more than the motor itself.
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