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  #1  
Old 02-18-2016, 01:29 AM
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Angry Brace Yourselves...an LED upgrade thread is coming!

Gentleman, I call upon you all to aid in my quest for a deeper understanding of WHAT THE FRICK IS GOING ON with my WJ.

I've searched through way too many threads to count (here and elsewhere) and find myself at a loss...so either I'm dumber than a box of resistors OR my GC is a special kind of Jeepid. Either way, here's where I find myself...

Upgrade all of my interior lights to LEDs. Everything swapped out fine and lit the interior like a concert stage, until I got to the glovebox light. Swapped it out and it just barely glowed...a fraction of the light ouput compared to even the incandescent bulb (probably original to the jeep). Odd. Tested the LED and it checked out fine.

Then I noticed that when I went to turn on any of the lights individually (e.g. turning on a single map/reading light OR turning on a single rear courtesy light), they just barely glowed.

When I unlock my girl or open a door, all interior lights illuminate no problem/at full output. AND, I don't get the "ghosting" effect that many seem to encounter when driving or after locking her up at the end of the day.

Here's where things really get weird...

When the jeep is running, the indivual lights operate no problem (i.e. full light output). Also, the individual lights work just fine if my girl is off BUT the glove box is open (thus the incondescent light is on).

I tried various resistors in the cargo light, parrallel and in series, to no help with the system as a whole...symptoms remain.

A resistor, in parrallel, DOES allow the individual light to operate at full light output whether or not the jeep is running, but has no affect on the whole system.

What am I missing? Is my girl passively-agressively demanding that I install a resistor alongside every single LED? Also, how do I get full LED light output in my glove box. Nothing I do seems to allow an LED in the gloebox to fly. Would "adding" a hidden incondescent light somewhere be a solution? CANBUS LEDs?

I've been at this for days, trying every indiviual and combination of solutions I can think of...and here I sit, at my wit's end.

Thoughts?

FWIW...1999 Jeep GC/WJ. Feel free to ask any questions or request any troubleshooting data that you think you need...if I don't already have the answers, I'll go find it and report back.

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  #2  
Old 02-18-2016, 09:47 PM
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Re: Brace Yourselves...an LED upgrade thread is coming!

Welcome to the garage.
I have no experience with LEDīs, but the problem most probably is with the BCM (body control module), which supplies the ground for most of the lights, via an internal driver circuit. Probably each individual light must have a resistor.
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:28 AM
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Re: Brace Yourselves...an LED upgrade thread is coming!

I will always defer to Frango, but, in my experience, you need a resistor on each circuit, not necessarily each light. I had LEDs in every dome light, footwell light, and glovebox with no issues at all. I had 2 resistors total. One in the cargo area lamp, and one up front somewhere...I think in the map lights.
Sounds like you know your way around an LED conversion, so I don't need to tell you that polarity might be playing a role.
I do remember the fixture itself (in the glove box) needing to be messed with. I think my LED bulb had a thinner profile than the original glass bulb did and the contacts needed to be bent outwards a little.
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Old 02-27-2016, 04:42 PM
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Re: Brace Yourselves...an LED upgrade thread is coming!

tl;dr: Suggestions:
1. Check and clean up grounds - neg battery cable, body ground near battery, and PCM ground. This should help with the dim lamps situation.
2. Find a situation where 'ghosting' exists... open drivers door and press the plunger door switch in by hand. It's likely the lamps will go out completely. Put a washer behind switch. It could be any door or hatch switch, but drivers is most likely.

-----------------------------------------------

Hi, I have a little experience with LED interior conversions. I put together a set for the WJ after doing the same for XJs, TJs, and ZJs. Some of the common WJ problems are what you've mentioned. I'd like to better understand the problem (and solution) as well. If you haven't solved this already (please share if you have) consider trying the any of the following.

From my perspective, LEDs are fairly simple, like most light bulbs. If they get a certain voltage and can draw enough current, they light up. If they don't light up, the problem is one of those. (Since WJs aren't CANBUS equipped, we can avoid that complication.)

1st - lamps not lighting properly when individually switched with ignition off. If an LED isn't lighting up properly, it's likely not getting enough voltage, which means that somewhere between the battery and the bulb, extra resistance is present in the system. The most likely cause is a corroded ground - check the battery cable, body ground near battery, and PCM ground. When the ignition is switched on or the main lamp switch turned on, electricity has a less restrictive path to flow and the lights work better.

2nd - ghosting: When lights should be off, they light up a little. The most common cause I've found of this is with the plunger switch in the driver's door. It could be any door... or the hatch, but the driver's door gets the most abuse. The sheet metal holding the switch stretches over time just enough that the switch isn't being fully compressed. This can allow a small amount of current pass, and result in glowing lamps. LEDs require so little power that they show this. The stock bulbs require more current to glow slightly than LEDs do at full brightness, so they simply don't show the 'problem'. My solution was to put a washer between the body and the base of that switch. Alternatively, sticking something on the door side of the switch works too.

3rd - glove box light. I can't suggest much on that one. It may be an issue with the LED or the circuit. If the stock bulb worked properly, (in all configurations of ignition on, ignition off, other lights on/off, etc). My guess is that it's related to whatever is causing the other lights to not work well when the ignition is off and main lamp switch is off, but I honestly don't know.
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Old 02-27-2016, 10:40 PM
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Re: Brace Yourselves...an LED upgrade thread is coming!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Akasnajo View Post
tl;dr: Suggestions:
1. Check and clean up grounds - neg battery cable, body ground near battery, and PCM ground. This should help with the dim lamps situation.
2. Find a situation where 'ghosting' exists... open drivers door and press the plunger door switch in by hand. It's likely the lamps will go out completely. Put a washer behind switch. It could be any door or hatch switch, but drivers is most likely.

-----------------------------------------------

Hi, I have a little experience with LED interior conversions. I put together a set for the WJ after doing the same for XJs, TJs, and ZJs. Some of the common WJ problems are what you've mentioned. I'd like to better understand the problem (and solution) as well. If you haven't solved this already (please share if you have) consider trying the any of the following.

From my perspective, LEDs are fairly simple, like most light bulbs. If they get a certain voltage and can draw enough current, they light up. If they don't light up, the problem is one of those. (Since WJs aren't CANBUS equipped, we can avoid that complication.)

1st - lamps not lighting properly when individually switched with ignition off. If an LED isn't lighting up properly, it's likely not getting enough voltage, which means that somewhere between the battery and the bulb, extra resistance is present in the system. The most likely cause is a corroded ground - check the battery cable, body ground near battery, and PCM ground. When the ignition is switched on or the main lamp switch turned on, electricity has a less restrictive path to flow and the lights work better.

2nd - ghosting: When lights should be off, they light up a little. The most common cause I've found of this is with the plunger switch in the driver's door. It could be any door... or the hatch, but the driver's door gets the most abuse. The sheet metal holding the switch stretches over time just enough that the switch isn't being fully compressed. This can allow a small amount of current pass, and result in glowing lamps. LEDs require so little power that they show this. The stock bulbs require more current to glow slightly than LEDs do at full brightness, so they simply don't show the 'problem'. My solution was to put a washer between the body and the base of that switch. Alternatively, sticking something on the door side of the switch works too.

3rd - glove box light. I can't suggest much on that one. It may be an issue with the LED or the circuit. If the stock bulb worked properly, (in all configurations of ignition on, ignition off, other lights on/off, etc). My guess is that it's related to whatever is causing the other lights to not work well when the ignition is off and main lamp switch is off, but I honestly don't know.
The WJ doesnīt have the plunjer switches in the door jambs. They are part of the door latch and lock motor assy and not easy to access.
Also, if the interior light was working well with a normal bulb, then the problem can not be not enough voltage. The normal bulb needs more current to glow then a LED bulb.
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Old 02-28-2016, 12:45 PM
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Re: Brace Yourselves...an LED upgrade thread is coming!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frango100 View Post
The WJ doesnīt have the plunjer switches in the door jambs. They are part of the door latch and lock motor assy and not easy to access.
Also, if the interior light was working well with a normal bulb, then the problem can not be not enough voltage. The normal bulb needs more current to glow then a LED bulb.
As much as I hate being wrong, I'll take it if it means learning something. I apologize for making so many assumptions.

I'd really like to understand what it takes to make an interior LED set work in a WJ. Some people have reported that they worked perfectly, but the issues this person mentioned seen common and I clearly don't know how to fix them.

Any suggestions? Would current regulated LEDs work better? They shouldn't need CANBUS lights, but that's another possibility.
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