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  #13  
Old 08-20-2013, 02:23 PM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

Alternator will be cheaper for sure and if you measure AC current then there is something wrong with the rectifier. You could get the rectifier separate what i heard, not sure about the price of a new (overhauled) alternator. Take care in connecting the alternator lead with the engine running, the voltage spikes could fry other modules.
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  #14  
Old 08-20-2013, 02:47 PM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airborn44 View Post
Hello Frango and Istowell!

Thanks a million for all suggestions. I have tried it all and this is the outcome:

1. The keydance gives only the indication: Done

2. The other Indications is a stedy lit engine symbol in amber and red "check gagues. and still 9 volt reading.

3. took connectors lose at the PCM and checked for humidity...nothing...sprayed with contact spray...no improvment.

4. I measured back and forth between posts and terminals vs block etc. and everything looks normal battery is 12.7 volts disconnected and when engine runs on idle (low due to related problem) and indicates between 13.3 and 15.6 volts.

5. I put a jumpcable between the negative terminal and the block, no change in any indications.

6. Messured resistans between engineblock and groundcable shoes (2) on lower part of engine (negative battery connection to engineblock. No resistance at all indicating a good connection.

7. Messured volt between negative terminal on battery and block, indicates between 0.01-0.03.

8. I also replaced the grounding cables between the exhaust, engineblock and body underneath the car...it was more or less without any contact...still no change.

I cant get my head around this problem but here are some things I find weird:

1. When starting the engine it runs normal for about 2-3 seconds (if it has been off for a period of time then its starts to sputter.

2. The exhaust smells like an old damp rag/fishy. As if the cathalytic process is inefective.

3. The odometer sort of flashes as the engine pulsates in idle...when engine sems it is about to stall the odometer blanks and immediately comes back as the engine revs back up to idle.

4. As I touch the throttle the engine hezitates and then almost stalls if I let the throttle lose the engne stabalizes for a fraction in almost normal idle just to drop back again and sputter.

5. If I manage to run the engine warm it stabalizes a bit and you can actually rev it up and drive. At high rpms it runs normal but all indications are the same.

Maybe it is the PCM? And how about the TCM what is that, which parts does it control?

Thank you for any advice....I am getting more and more pussled as we progress here.:bang head:

Best regards,

Phil
Well, it sure looks like the battery and charging circuit itself are all OK, and I didn't see any funny voltage drops in your readings... in other words the grounding, wiring all look good.

Unfortunately, in technical terms, it looks like you are screwed... and the problem is in the control electronics. [Where now you need a FSM or someone with one memorized]

About all I can offer is a good can of WD-40 to help push any moisture away from any connectors, etc. Might also look for cracks in the powertrain control module covers that could have let water in, even maybe taking the covers off and looking for moisture from the cleaning. It SHOULDN'T have hurt a thing, I used a power sprayer on my older GC under the hood all the time, but I usually did it with the engine hot and running to quickly dry anything.

If you don't find moisture that you can get rid of with pure alcohol or WD-40, you may have actually gotten enough water somewhere to have popped something, but you'd need to trace out the signal paths carefully to find it....
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:06 AM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

Hello again, I am heading off to the generator store today, will either get a new recifier unit if I dare soldering that myself....never did that. Or Ill just try and get a replacement generator, maybe even a used one.....Ill be reporting back again soon.

Istowell.....I think I by now have emptied a whole can of WB-40 on all connectors and groundnings. Lets just hope the PCM will work as it is supposed to with a good generator so that this old surging one of mine hasent blown any circuits or boxes.

Thanks for now gentlemen we shall soon have the answer.

Phil
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:29 AM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

As far as i know there is no soldering needed on the rectifier assy. Not sure if the one on the next site is for your alternator, but its just a reference: 12 Volts Rectifier Diode Assembly for Denso Alternators on Chrysler Dodge Jeep Chrysler Dodge Jeep - 77904068 - ALTERNATOR RECTIFIER
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  #17  
Old 08-21-2013, 03:33 AM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

Hi Frank,

Unfortunately I have a Bosch generator (alternator)...its soldered. Just ordered a second hand alternator on the web with delivery within 3 days so I guess ill get it monday or so. 150 bucks US, so I hope that will solve the problem. Ill keep you posted on the development.

Regards,

Phil
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:20 AM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

Well I am back already...I figured Ill take the generator apart and meassure the rectifier. Said and done it all looks normal to me, all diods only letting current through in one direction and all values equal between all diods.

After I put the generator back together and on the car to test run it, the voltage without the B+ cable attached (only field current cable attached) was 13-14 volts. I then attached the B+ cable, again sparks and a drop in idle rpm. I now meassured the current at the b+ terminal as well as directly over the battery terminals and voltage was jumping between 14 and 16.7 volts!!!!

I dont think its the alternator anymore....if it is regulated by the PCM then thats where the problem should be?

I will remove the PCM now but it is located quite wierd.

My question now is if I throw in another PCM will I need to reprogram anything or should it just work assuming its no other issue creating the problem. I will also replace the alternator as I have already ordered it.

Greatful for any tips regarding replacement of the PCM.

Cheers for now!

Phil
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  #19  
Old 08-21-2013, 11:48 AM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

Hi Phil, I would wait with the PCM until you have changed the alternator. Measuring the alternator voltage without load will not show that much. You could take the alternator to a specialised shop, where they could put it on a test bench, but since you already ordered an other one you could probably better just wait for the unit to arrive.
Changing the PCM also means programming the jeeps VIN and milage into the PCM memory and to transfer the SKIM secret code to the PCM, for all this a DRBIII scanner is needed.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:01 PM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

So folks its finally out...the PCM that is...corrosion like hell with one corner open and some corrosion on the inside at the bottom below the corroded corner....better start fishing for a new/second hand one.

Any tips anyone?

Enjoy the pics....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PCM1.jpg (514.6 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg PCM2.jpg (519.9 KB, 8 views)
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  #21  
Old 08-21-2013, 01:23 PM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

Looks like it was recuperated from a seabed after a year or so submerged.
Still strange it was regulating the voltage nicely without load.
Have a look on e- bay or amazone for a used unit. Companies who deal with these units are capable to insert the VIN and milage before shipping. The secret SKIM code I think still has to be transferred after installation.
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  #22  
Old 08-21-2013, 04:04 PM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

Yeah Frank....it was a deep sea mission indeed. I find it amazing that the car worked at all really.

I have found a company in the US that will send me a new box based on part number and VIN code also they will add the km on it. I asked about the skim registry but they said it was not needed.

I will pay 410:-USD as I can not trade mine in othervise it would have been 260:-USD. Shipment is another 150 USD.

You can check the company:

Auto Computer Exchange | Remanufactured OEM Auto Computers | PCM ECM ECU TCM TCU

I will let you know how they behave and the quality of the product once I get it.

One condition is that the car has been built in the us, this can be derived from the first two caracters in the VIN number:1J in my case.

Lets hope this works out now...it takes then 2-3 days to program the box and 2-3days for fedex to deliver so begining next week should be fine.

Talk to you soon,

Phil
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  #23  
Old 08-21-2013, 05:06 PM
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Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

Strange that they say that the secret SKIM code doesn't have to be programmed. The manual states this:

PROGRAMMING THE PCM (JTEC)
The SKIS Secret Key is an ID code that is unique
to each SKIM. This code is programmed and stored
in the SKIM, the PCM, and the ignition key transponder
chip(s). When replacing the PCM, it is necessary
to program the secret key into the new PCM
using the DRBIIIt scan tool.

Also is there no junkyard where you live, where they could get you a used PCM?
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  #24  
Old 08-21-2013, 05:55 PM
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Question Re: HELP! Engine/Grounding problems.

Thanks for the info Frank, I will email the company in the US and attach your text. I can find it at a junkjard here but it is 410:-USD and then I have to bring it and the car (towing) another 50km will most likely cost me 300:- USD and programing two hours at Crysler will be another 500:- USD total 1210:- this way I am done at 560:- under half the price....but sure I better check on the SCIM issue.
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