Well guys, I screwed up bad. After installing the transgo kit into my 45rfe valve body I was tightening the bolts on the valve body and heard a pop. After lowering the valve body back down I found a peg sitting on top of the body that had broken off the what I think might be called the linkage. I should have been more careful to really make sure everything was aligned correctly, 20-20 hindsight.
Pics attached.
Is this an easy part to replace? or should I try to somehow get another peg - not sure if that can be fabricated or replace by itself. It seems to be made of very high carbon steel and was pressed into the linkage arm. i suppose removing the remains and cutting threads and installing a bolt will probably work it's way loose and cause havoc in the tranny. so i doubt that is my path out of this.
Man I screwed it up. Any advice? Has any of you had to replace the linkage ( I think that is what this part is) during your repair adventures? I am hoping it's is an easy part to acquire and install. I have not been able to find it yet.
The broken pin is part of the manual shaft and lever assy. It will move the selector plate which is mounted on top of the valve body. I will see if i can find this part online. Maybe a transmission shop in your nabourhood has used parts for this transmission?
Yes, just found it, item 12 on the next site ( i didn´t remember your build year, i used 2002, but it will probably be the same. You could enter your build year there just to be sure):
Hopefully Frank can chime in on this one. I don't remember having to watch for any clearance issues when doing my Transgo but it's been a few years . To me that looks like the park spag(or pin) linkage. and that broken pin looks like a safety stop so it cant travel too far.Looks like dealer only stuff there though. But if that pin is just an overtravel stop you may be able to tap and drill like you mentioned.
Wow Frango - thanks so much!! You're the best! Do you think that will be something pretty simple to replace? I am wondering what the splined end connects to and if it will slip out easily. I guess if it does I need to pay attention to the original parts position.
Thanks Dave. I was wondering what the role of the part is, and did see it has a little polishing wear on more than one side of the peg, so it looks like it has a function and is needed. It does not have heavy wear on it though. If it is easy to replace the whole assembly I will do that instead.
The shaft is moved by the shift lever. On the outside its easy to remove the linkage, on my transmission it was not easy to remove the screw which holds the shaft in place. This shaft has two functions, with the (now broken) pin it moves the selector plate on top of the valve body, and the other end will move the rod which acts on the park pawl. So the only hard part on this could be the screw, which is of a soft metal and can be damaged when removing (which happened on my transmission) Take care to use a good quality and perfect fitting torqX to remove the screw. Also don´t forget a new seal for the shaft.
Again...a huge thanks!!
I ordered a new lever, seal and even the little clip and a screw just in case.
I'll let you know how it goes once i get the parts.
I don't know how it could happen that the pin broke of, but be sure that when installing the valve body, that the shift lever is in Park and also the selector plate on top of the valve body is in Park. Now when raising the valve body into the transmission, feel if the pin will align with the fork of the selector plate. Just as info on the working principle, the selector plate has a guide track where a pin of the manual valve runs in. When the selector plate moves, the shape of the track moves the manual valve in the required position. There is a spring plate on top of the selector plate, which runs with a roller on the top notches of the plate, giving the detent positions for the shift lever. You can't see it now, but on the upper side of the selector plate below the TRS block, are also several small straight tracks, which actuate the 5 TRS switches. (for shift lever position to the TCM, but also for the reverse lights and the ground for the starter relay in P and N only) When you are going to install the new oval inlet filter, don't forget to install FIRST the seal in the pump inlet with the butt end of a hammer for example and be sure its fully seated. Then install the filter neck into the seal and fasten the filter with the single screw. Don't know if you got a prefab seal for the tranny pan, but many times they just suck and will cause a small leak. Saver is to use RTV, eventhough it gives more work (especially the next time when you have to remove the old sealing) The attached picture shows you the PARK position of the selector plate. The solenoid block is not in place, but that doesn't matter that much
That is awesome information Frank - you are the man! I think what happened is that the pin hit the top shoulder of the fork of the selector track since I see a light dent there and the pressure snapped the pin - that is the only possible way that pin could have snapped. I will be VERY carefull reassembling it next time. When I was doing it it was getting late at night - fatigue is not good when doing things for the first time.
That is great advice about the RTV - I had already planned on that because the last time I used the gasket that came with the WIX filter kit, the outer part broke at one of the bolts - so it was just a small inner bit of rubber left - that is not good. So I have a fresh tube of permatex ultra black ready to go.
The new shift arm should arrive next week. I am looking forward to resolving this.
So, now that I am back from vacation today is dedicated to replacing the parking shift shaft lever and getting the WJ back on the road - but I have a problem. The broken shift shaft will not come out - there is not enough clearance for it to be removed!
It looks like there is a round clutch housing (?) in the way. Is that part moveable somehow to allow the clearance I need?
Help!! Thanks in advance for any advice.
Here is a picture of the issue...
This is not good news, because you can eventually turn the planetary gear housing, but it will be the same all around. When you really can´t get the old shift lever out, i´m afraid that the tranny has to come down and be opened to get the planetary train out to create the space.
Thanks Frango - I was afraid of that! I have been thinking about recreating a peg and tapping threads but I think instead that I will just have it pulled and the new part installed, more expensive but I dont really have lots of spare time and I need my truck rolling again with confidence. I have already been calling shops this morning.
Its a pitty that you won´t have the time to do it yourself, because once the transmission is down its not difficult to remove the tranny internals. But it will be a time consuming job. Probably also not cheap to have a shop to do it. Attached the gear train where you´re looking at in the tranny. You can see that rotating it will not do a thing for creating extra space. This sucks.
Thanks however I just have way too many other things going on. I accept this as the consequence of my DIY endeavors and have no regrets - except that it is indeed a bummer....and wont happen again...I hope!!!
Now I have another problem. The car is in my garage nose in and the tranny is in Park. I have arranged a tow truck to come on Monday to pick it up.
Will they be able to tow it out in Park? Or is there a way for me to get it into neutral?