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  #37  
Old 04-12-2014, 08:12 PM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

Project A-arm complete....
I needed a 2 foot length of conduit to use as a cheater bar, and a whole lot of patience, but in total, it took me about 3 hours. All the bolts got PB Blasted for the last few days. I jacked it up by the hitch, put the stands on the hitch frame, and that gave me enough room to work. I started with the 3 bolts on top of the diff. I figured if I couldn't get those broken loose, I wasn't going to be able to do the job anyway. I got 2 totally out, and one at least turning...21mm combination ratcheting wrench. After that, I removed all the small bolts holding on the various tubes and lines, then removed the two long bolts that go through the bushings. I then was able to finish removing the one leftover bolt on the diff.

I took a prybar to the bushing mounts to spread them just enough to get the A-arm out. Once out, I was able to use a pneumatic impact gun to remove the nut holding the ball joint on. One good whack with a hammer and the ball joint came out of its plate.

The plate got wire brushed, and greased, and I pressed the new Moog ball joint on with my handy-dandy new shop press, and the joint and plate assembly got bolted on to the new A-arm. I pressed the Omix bushings out of my new A-arm and pressed in my Raybestos ones that I partially filled with black Permatex gasket maker and adhesive I had left over from a diff cover installation. The whole animal went under the Jeep and got bolted up. I bolted the the ball joint plate on first, then the muffler side bushing, then the other. The last bolt didn't line up right away, so it took a little muscling to get it to line up. Everything then got torqued down. The lines were re-installed, but I didn't use the OE bolts. Not only were they rusty, but the new A-arm was not threaded, so I just used stainless self-tappers. After a drive around the block, I heard no noises. It felt a lot tighter too.

The old bushings were totally shot. When the old a-arm came out, the plate on the top of the bushings just fell out. The rubber was torn inside too. I tried to pop the bad bushings out of the old a-arm, but they were so rusted, everything just deformed, so I'm tossing the old a-arm and returning my extra set of bushings to RockAuto. Fingers crossed these last longer than the Omix ones.

The key here is just not to strip the heads on the bolts above the diff. I had a wrench slip on one, but luckily, when it slipped, it also broke it loose. I'll be replacing it, because if there is a next time, I don't want to have to fight with it.

Should I avoid stainless bolts because the housing is cast aluminum?
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  #38  
Old 04-12-2014, 09:26 PM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

Well bro you're already dealing with the dissimilar metal corrosion thing no matter what so go with a grade 8 bolt. Stainless has no shear strength and will still lock up in aluminium. So if you don't want to snap the heads off if there is a next time stay away from stainless. Grade 8 and some never seize is the way to go IMO.
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  #39  
Old 04-17-2014, 12:09 PM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

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Originally Posted by cheapjeep View Post
Well bro you're already dealing with the dissimilar metal corrosion thing no matter what so go with a grade 8 bolt. Stainless has no shear strength and will still lock up in aluminium. So if you don't want to snap the heads off if there is a next time stay away from stainless. Grade 8 and some never seize is the way to go IMO.
I see I'm a little late, but Dave is right. Grade 8 bolts and never seize. Can't use enough never seize living in the rust/salt belt.
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  #40  
Old 04-17-2014, 03:41 PM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

Oh yeah...got it...hope to get under there tonight and install it. I anti-seize just about everything that's external. Including lugs. I've seen too many lug nuts come off with the stud still inside due to the whole dissimilar metals crap.
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  #41  
Old 05-24-2014, 06:55 AM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

Find SuperPro Parts for My Vehicle


SuperPro SPF3669K Superpro SPF3669K Made by SuperPro

Supposedly a poly solution.......


Cheers
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  #42  
Old 05-24-2014, 08:59 AM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

Exactly, super pro
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  #43  
Old 05-24-2014, 01:45 PM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

I think I am going to have to pull the trigger on a superpro piece. Wonder if that place would do a group buy??
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  #44  
Old 05-24-2014, 06:33 PM
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Nominate Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

I would not expect them to have poly bushings for the A arm front ones. The A arm is a combined control arm and track bar in one and it should be able to swing slightly around the front bushings with the movement of the rear axle. A stiff bushing would not allow this movement and will break/wear away quickly.
Also for this reason the A arm front bushings are not of a fully solid rubber type, but are they partly without rubber, to allow the axle movement.
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  #45  
Old 05-25-2014, 12:06 AM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

Hey Frango,I was thinking the same thing,however it looks like they are 3 pieces either side,a press fit steel sleeved center and a floating bush top and bottom .
Has anyone used them at all? I might just grab a set as they are only $85 and see how they go.
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  #46  
Old 05-25-2014, 07:17 AM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

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Originally Posted by duggy2145 View Post
Hey Frango,I was thinking the same thing,however it looks like they are 3 pieces either side,a press fit steel sleeved center and a floating bush top and bottom .
Has anyone used them at all? I might just grab a set as they are only $85 and see how they go.
I donīt see any image of the bushings on the link you had send
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  #47  
Old 05-25-2014, 09:14 AM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ WG Rear Upper Control Wishbone ARM Bush KIT Superpro Poly | eBay

Give this one a go.
Cheers
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  #48  
Old 05-25-2014, 01:41 PM
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Re: Rear upper A arm bushings

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Originally Posted by duggy2145 View Post
Thanks for that, it worked. Let us know how it worked out if you buy the kit.
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