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Hydrographics dipping, start to finish

15K views 68 replies 23 participants last post by  08Hemi 
#1 ·
I am doing a complete interior of a 08 charger for a customer. the customer has decided to do it in carbon fiber with a gun metal base coat.

So I am going to start a "build thread" and kinda show you guys/gals what it is I do.

So lets start.

1. I took all the parts and washed them down with chem kote which is a degreaser and etcher. After I washed all the parts.

At this time I also inspected all the parts for flaws, knicks and scratches. Using several grits of sandpaper I got all the parts to where I can primer.

Using a heavy build automotive primer I layed a coat down and let it dry. I will once again sand any imperfections out and lay another coat if needed.

Here are a few shots, I will be posting more as I go along and a video when I dip the objects.







This is a speed shape of what everything will look like when done. I do this for every dip to show customers what it will look like.





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I will update the thread as i go along. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. :thumbsup:
 
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#4 ·
sick stuff!
 
#16 ·
I'm looking forward to the updates. It's fun seeing how things are made.

Am I the only nerd here who watches that show "How It's Made" lol

No way dude, I love that show too. Especially the mix of stuff they show you in one episode.

"And today on How It's Made...French Horns, muffins, truck tires, and mechanical pencils"
 
#13 · (Edited)
Ok, Update time

After I primed everything I wet sanded to get all the light scratches and get a nice smooth working surface.

Nice and smooth!


with and without primer




Time for paint, I use a Devilbiss conventional spray gun for paint and clears. This help to atomize the paint and just lays a smooth workable layer on the surface. It also helps prevent runs in the paint and clears.

Strut cover


Cold air intake tube




After painting everything it is very important to dip in time. If the paint gets to dry the film wont stick to it, if the paint is still to wet, the activator used on the film to release the pattern will take the paint off!!

Time to lay the film. The pattern itself is held in place by a clear film. When you place the film on top of water the film begins to hydrate. At this time, I also check for air bubbles and wrinkles in the film and blow them out.

After leaving it on the surface for a specific timed duration, its time to spray a release activator which will release the image and the image will now float on top of the water ready for a part.



Time to activate the film pattern


And then dip the part. This is probably the most important part of the process. The angle of dip and the speed all play a key part! Too fast and the pattern does not lay down even, too slow and the pattern dissolves. This is the process that take months to learn and get right.



And now you have a Carbon Fiber fuse box cover




The item now gets all the activator rinsed off. Again, this is timed. You don't want it to eat the pattern and the paint.

(the glare/smudges on the part is activator running off)

I rinse the parts and let air dry.

NEXT: We clear!!
 
#17 ·
@ the original poster:

Frank, this is an awesome process. I'm guessing the durability is only as good as the clear-coating process right?

Do you price everything out by the job or do you have some kind of pricing structure?
 
#18 · (Edited)
Thanks TJ

I use multiple automotive clears, this one I will use a DuPont clear. If its say, a hard hat, where I don't have to use expensive clear, I use PPG. Both are great products and do the job well. I guess the best way to describe it is, your buying a new jeep, you can spend 20 grand on a JGC, great truck, or you can spend $40k and go kick a$$ with an SRT! Really up to the customer and what kind of finish they want. To be honest, taking care of the item regularly, the item will last a life time.

I don't have a set price list as each job is one off or custom.
 
#19 ·
absolutely amazing... u sir have a PM
 
#20 · (Edited)
Clear: Stage 1

Last night I was able to get a few parts cleared.

I laid 2 coats of clear down to get a deep, rich luster. They came out absolutely amazing! I love this carbon look.

Fuse Box cover, Check out the lines!!






A/C vent


Interior door handle


Window Trim


Strut cover and handle



Next: Wet sand with super fine grit sand paper to get any imperfections in the clear out and polish to high shine.
 
#23 · (Edited)
This is a cool process man. Looks amazing. can defiantly tell you have mastered the process.

I seen this one time on OCC i think it was. I think Paul Sr. shop was the one that did it but I can't remember.
lol! Yes you did see it on occ. but what most people didn't realize, is they totally F'd the fender up, but for tv, they made it appear as if it was easy as pie. It takes a lot of work to get to where I am today and I STILL f things up. Everyday, I learn something new.

wonderful! answered a lot of questions i had about how that's done. parts look amazing. can you do virtually anyhting?
Nate, glad I was able to answer a few questions! Almost anything can be dipped, plastic, metal, glass, and hard woods can all be customized. Anything that can be submerged in water. The prep for each part is different. It is much easier to dip plastic then it is to dip glass.
 
#24 ·
That is beautiful work. I sooo want you to do the wiper cowl of my WJ, I'd say the mirrors too but with the motors and electrics I think dippining them would be a bad idea!

Can you dip stuff that flexes? Plastic parts but when attached/removed will flex slightly? Thinking roof rail fixings here.
 
#25 ·
Marty, it would depend on how much flex the part gives. All the parts above are plastic, but they don't flex/move at all when installed (for the most part) So I can use a high gloss clear. If the item were to flex, the clear would crack.

It is best to dip something with a hard surface/wont bend much.
 
#27 ·
The parts would only flex when being installed/snapped into place. Majority of the parts are solid just the covers flexible until fitted.

They don't flex much more than say a rear bumper which can take a fair bit of movement if that helps descibe it better?
 
#29 ·
all of my interior bezels are painted inferno red and cleared with automotive paint and clear. They are perfect after like 5 years. I dont see these being any different.
 
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#30 · (Edited)
Correct Scott. Clears today are made to withstand a great deal. And I myself (cant speak for others) use only top of the line coat. For what I do, this clear coat is more then enough for parts. Again its all about the clears. I wouldn't use $300 a gallon clear on a hard hat, but on trim I would. I wouldn't use $300 clear on wheels, as even that will chip away in time. Wheels require a much stronger clear to stand up to road rash and that clear is around $500.

Let me add this too, guns and outdoor gear also take a spacial paint and clear to withstand the elements of the outdoors.
 
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