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  #13  
Old 09-09-2014, 08:43 PM
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Re: 1st Wash

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Originally Posted by mswlogo View Post

I use 1 bucket and a sponge. And some blue goop from Walmart.

For me, substitute an old towel for the sponge. I wax it spring and fall with any brand wax I recognize. I did it this weekend with something from Maguires. I never go to a car wash. In the winter anything above freezing is good car wash weather.

I get more compliments on how I keep my vehicle than on the Jeep itself.

But for those who enjoy detailing, I say go at it. Everybody needs something to fuss over. For me it's my lawn.



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  #14  
Old 09-09-2014, 10:07 PM
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Re: 1st Wash

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Originally Posted by pinetar View Post
Clay barring, overkill?

If you're taking the time to wax your entire roof on a step ladder, using a clay bar is similarly tedious and "overkill".

But I think it's necessary if you're trying to detail it in the first place. It's a primary step to remove all the contaminants off your paint. It doesn't have to be done every wash though, that's for sure.
Um, waxing the roof takes a whole 5 minutes because.... its flat... and I have a step ladder... clay barring would easily take another 1 - 2 hours if you did the whole Jeep.

But, everyone has their own way to taking care of their Jeep. I hear that some even deliberately get it muddy... (grin)
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  #15  
Old 09-09-2014, 10:18 PM
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Re: 1st Wash

I use a combo of an electric pressure washer and standard bucket wash. Usually takes me about an hour to do a complete wash start to finish including the interior. I have a pretty good system down now that i have a pressure washer in the mix. It really breaks up alot of the stuck on dirt that a normal garden hose would never remove regardless of the water pressure.

Step 1 - Vacuum and Dust:
- full interior vacuum (front to back)
- all mats pulled out, hand vacuumed and rubber mats pressure washed
- front seats moved forward & back in order to vacuum underneath
- dust dash, console, door panels and cargo panels
- windex all glass

Step 2 - 1600 psi Karcher pressure washer:
- full rinse of entire body, glass, roof, rims and inside wheel wells
- spray foam entire car (chemical guys soap) let stand for 3-5 mins
- second full rinse bumper to bumper
- under carriage rinse (no soap, just water)
- windshield wipers (front and rear - water only)

Step 3 - 5 Gallon Bucket with grit guard insert and Microfiber mit(s):
- Body Only... microfiber mit and chemical guys soap (rinising mit for each panel)
- Rinse entire body bumper to bumper (fire hose nozzle and standard garden hose. This style nozzle is really good for rinsing away soap suds)

- Wheels and Tires... separate wash mit for rims/tires (fresh bucket of water, grit guard and green palmolive) Palmolive works wonders on brake dust and any grease or oils that are on the wheels/tires.
- Rinse all rims

Step 4 - Dry & Quick Detail:
- Chamois for the body (rinse often)
- California water blade for windows
- Windex glass
- Mothers Showtime Detail Spray
- Wipe down all door jambs
- Wipe down all kick/sill plates
- Pop hood and wipe down all panels, covers, caps, hoses, etc...

Step 5 - DONE

Its funny because my neighbors always bust my chops for how long it takes me to wash my Jeep. But in the end cant believe how clean it turns out. My wifes car gets the same treatment ( when im in the mood ) Other wise its a quick vacuum, a standard wash with 5 gallon bucket with micro fiber mit and quick wipe down of the interior.
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  #16  
Old 09-10-2014, 05:46 AM
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Re: 1st Wash

Quote:
Originally Posted by antsjeep View Post
I use a combo of an electric pressure washer and standard bucket wash. Usually takes me about an hour to do a complete wash start to finish including the interior. I have a pretty good system down now that i have a pressure washer in the mix. It really breaks up alot of the stuck on dirt that a normal garden hose would never remove regardless of the water pressure.

Step 1 - Vacuum and Dust:
- full interior vacuum (front to back)
- all mats pulled out, hand vacuumed and rubber mats pressure washed
- front seats moved forward & back in order to vacuum underneath
- dust dash, console, door panels and cargo panels
- windex all glass

Step 2 - 1600 psi Karcher pressure washer:
- full rinse of entire body, glass, roof, rims and inside wheel wells
- spray foam entire car (chemical guys soap) let stand for 3-5 mins
- second full rinse bumper to bumper
- under carriage rinse (no soap, just water)
- windshield wipers (front and rear - water only)

Step 3 - 5 Gallon Bucket with grit guard insert and Microfiber mit(s):
- Body Only... microfiber mit and chemical guys soap (rinising mit for each panel)
- Rinse entire body bumper to bumper (fire hose nozzle and standard garden hose. This style nozzle is really good for rinsing away soap suds)

- Wheels and Tires... separate wash mit for rims/tires (fresh bucket of water, grit guard and green palmolive) Palmolive works wonders on brake dust and any grease or oils that are on the wheels/tires.
- Rinse all rims

Step 4 - Dry & Quick Detail:
- Chamois for the body (rinse often)
- California water blade for windows
- Windex glass
- Mothers Showtime Detail Spray
- Wipe down all door jambs
- Wipe down all kick/sill plates
- Pop hood and wipe down all panels, covers, caps, hoses, etc...

Step 5 - DONE

Its funny because my neighbors always bust my chops for how long it takes me to wash my Jeep. But in the end cant believe how clean it turns out. My wifes car gets the same treatment ( when im in the mood ) Other wise its a quick vacuum, a standard wash with 5 gallon bucket with micro fiber mit and quick wipe down of the interior.
Step 5
That's Me
My family & friends always bag me out on the time I spend on cleaning my vehicles..
I always say, nothing wrong with taking a little pride in what you do...
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  #17  
Old 09-10-2014, 06:16 AM
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Re: 1st Wash

Used nothing but for the past 20odd years, http://www.meguiars.com.au/
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  #18  
Old 09-10-2014, 07:51 AM
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Re: 1st Wash

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill_de View Post
For me, substitute an old towel for the sponge. I wax it spring and fall with any brand wax I recognize. I did it this weekend with something from Maguires. I never go to a car wash. In the winter anything above freezing is good car wash weather.

I get more compliments on how I keep my vehicle than on the Jeep itself.

But for those who enjoy detailing, I say go at it. Everybody needs something to fuss over. For me it's my lawn.



---
I like your last sentence

I think I waxed my 2003 GC once, maybe.

It looked absolutely fine after 11 years and 230K.
Not even pits on the front edge of hood.
That truck had a nice paint job.
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  #19  
Old 09-10-2014, 10:09 AM
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Re: 1st Wash

Quote:
Originally Posted by pinetar View Post
Clay barring, overkill?

If you're taking the time to wax your entire roof on a step ladder, using a clay bar is similarly tedious and "overkill".

But I think it's necessary if you're trying to detail it in the first place. It's a primary step to remove all the contaminants off your paint. It doesn't have to be done every wash though, that's for sure.
Well, I did a few hand washes before I clay barred it and tbh, the clear coat was pretty clean with the exception of the lower half of the doors and the roof. It took maybe an additional hour to do it right, but I feel it was well worth it.

Also, I got the meguiars DA power system with the wax and polish (I have my own meguiars cleaner) and did the car that way. The DA power system did an awesome job and cut the time down a lot. Lastly, def get some microfiber towels...
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  #20  
Old 09-10-2014, 02:05 PM
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Re: 1st Wash

Thanks for all the info!

Decided to invest in a foam gun, gonna soak her up really good, then work my way down top to bottom.
Can't wait to get her all nice and pretty!


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  #21  
Old 09-11-2014, 05:19 AM
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Re: 1st Wash

Ugh. I HATE washing cars. Someone come and do mine please!
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  #22  
Old 09-11-2014, 06:40 AM
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Re: 1st Wash

My car washing tips:

1) NEVER take your Jeep through a regular car wash, try to wash it by hand instead...or a touchless car wash in the Winter.

2) Only use natural materials to wash the surface...e.g. 100% cotton. Man-made material like microfibre is hydrophobic, so you won't always have a layer of water between the fibers and the surface of the clear coat. Cotton is hydrophillic. The only thing microfiber is good for is taking off wax. Think microfibre won't scratch washing your car with it? take a look at your shiny black plastic door inserts in the sun sometime.

3) Use a quality car wash solution that's netrual pH...helps keep the wax on your vehicle. High pH solutions...e.g. dishwashing detergent...will strip off wax. As for the wax itself, stay away from carnauba...unless you like waxing your car just about every month. Doesn't last long, especially in the hot Summer months.

4) Want your Jeep to look so shiny that it looks wet? Invest the time to clay bar & use a quality long lasting wax. Maguires products give a good bang for the money. I just did this to my Jeep (by hand), took 6.5 hours total over a weekend.
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  #23  
Old 09-11-2014, 08:44 AM
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Re: 1st Wash

For some of us...if it wasn't for a car wash, the vehicle would never get washed. The local place I use is clean, well maintained, inexpensive and convenient. It's brushless (and they change the pads frequently) and ride-through. But I do agree that for folks with the time and inclination, using the right materials is the key to a great wash and detail.
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  #24  
Old 09-11-2014, 08:45 AM
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Re: 1st Wash

Quote:
Originally Posted by GCLimited View Post
My car washing tips:

1) NEVER take your Jeep through a regular car wash, try to wash it by hand instead...or a touchless car wash in the Winter.

2) Only use natural materials to wash the surface...e.g. 100% cotton. Man-made material like microfibre is hydrophobic, so you won't always have a layer of water between the fibers and the surface of the clear coat. Cotton is hydrophillic. The only thing microfiber is good for is taking off wax. Think microfibre won't scratch washing your car with it? take a look at your shiny black plastic door inserts in the sun sometime.

3) Use a quality car wash solution that's netrual pH...helps keep the wax on your vehicle. High pH solutions...e.g. dishwashing detergent...will strip off wax. As for the wax itself, stay away from carnauba...unless you like waxing your car just about every month. Doesn't last long, especially in the hot Summer months.

4) Want your Jeep to look so shiny that it looks wet? Invest the time to clay bar & use a quality long lasting wax. Maguires products give a good bang for the money. I just did this to my Jeep (by hand), took 6.5 hours total over a weekend.
I'd have to strongly disagree with your cotton theory. There are countless posts online from detailers about the best product for your paint surface. Microfiber waffle-weave comes out at the top nearly every time.

First you say it's not good for your paint and then you say you can remove wax with it. If it's not good for you paint then it wouldn't be good in any circumstance.

Carnuba is great when paired with a good wax. Any paint surface should be cleaned thoroughly. I use a product called Iron-X that does an amazing job of stripping the paint surface of road contaminants and mineral deposits. After that I go over it with a medium-hard clay bar to remove the remaining contaminants. Then add a good layer of wax on all paint surfaces. Paying close attention to door, hood, and lift gate jams. Lastly finishing off with a thin layer of carnuba wax to bring out the depth in the paint.

Will carnuba last long? Depends on what you consider long and the weather conditions in your area. Typically the answer is no and this should always be used in addition to a wax.

Here's a few tips taken from Dr. Beasley.

Do…

Dampen your towel

A slightly damp microfiber drying towel wicks water better than a dry microfiber towel. Additionally, the damp towel significantly reduces surface friction between itself and the surface, creating a safer more effective drying procedure. All you have to do is lightly saturate the towels and dry them 5-10 minutes until they’re no longer dripping wet.
Drive a little

You know how dogs shake themselves dry after a swim? The idea here is that you do the same thing with your car. There’s no way to stick your hand behind your side mirror or into the many cracks and crevices that exist on modern automobiles. To combat this, simply take the car out of the driveway (or down the street) and drive it right back up. You’ll see streaks fall from windows, trim, even your license plates. You can complete the procedure by towel drying the water that drips out.
Use pressurized air

Pressurized air is your best friend when it comes to car drying, especially when you’re dealing with tricky areas like windshield wipers, running boards, and gas caps. Even if it’s those $5 cans at an office supply store, pressurized air can make your life much, much easier if you make it a part of your drying procedure.

Don’t…

Use cotton towels

Cotton terry towels leave lint, don’t absorb well, and are potentially harmful to your paintwork. Towels like these are not to be used on your vehicle’s exterior finish unless you’re comfortable with hairline scratches and streaks. Plain and simple: stay away from cotton towels unless you’re cleaning your engine. Microfiber is a much safer and more effective solution.
Use chamois or ShamWows

We’ve already explained why chamois are terrible for your car, but in case you missed it I’ll give you one of the main idea. Chamois and ShamWows drag across the surface – this is never a good idea. If you were to get a microscopic piece of gravel or dust trapped under that towel, you can kiss your finish goodbye (see diagram). Stick to microfiber.
Air dry

Don’t let your car sit out in the sun to dry. If you do, you’re begging for waterspots. Waterspots are basically mineral deposits left by water and often appear crusted on the surface. The hardened sediment can cause problems if you try to remove it without a detail spray, and in worse cases can begin to etch yo
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