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2015 JGC Ecodiesel Towing capability

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2015
12K views 39 replies 12 participants last post by  Jim_in_PA 
#1 ·
Would anyone see an issue with towing a 22ft Ultralight travel trailer with a 2015 JGC Ecodiesel? I am not so much worried about the weight, but more the length of the trailer being towed by the JGC.

Also, this is a vehicle I am ordering, it will be a 4x4, what other options are must have when towing this type of rig.

Thanks
 
#2 ·
You absolutely need the factory tow option...it's not "optional", as it were for this kind of thing. Other than that, you'll need to decide what trim level makes sense for you for comfort and safety features. The upper trim levels tend to include the factory tow option with 4x4, too. Do note that you'll need a WDH (weight distribution hitch). It's mandatory for over 3500 lbs and really something you want for stabilizing a longer trailer like that, too.
 
#5 ·
I pull a 30' ultra light behind my 14 Limited Hemi. Just make sure and get a good weight distribution hitch with sway control. I'm currently using an Equal-i-zer setup that works well. Be prepared to get jerked around a little bit if it is really windy though.

The first time I pulled my camper with my 08 Limited, I had to deal with 50 mph+ gusts and it scared the crap out of me! I have since learned to slow down and not over correct and it has been smooth sailing. My 14 sure pulls a lot nicer than my 08 did as well.
 
#6 ·
We just bought a '13 GC Trailhawk V8 to tow our ultralight as well. Our is 24' (27' with the tongue) and has a dry weight of 3,800. I use an EQ 1k/10k WDH. I towed this camper with my '99 Yukon and that hitch on a 5,600 mile trip last summer and had a ball. We're heading to San Diego from Colorado in June with it for 2 weeks.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Brake controller just hooks up to the existing wiring if you have the tow package. I have mine mounted just to the right of the emergency brake foot lever - which means I have to take it off every time I take my GC to the dealer since that is right in front of the diagnostic port. I like it there though as it is then out of the way.

A brake controller is used to sense the amount of deceleration of the tow vehicle and then send the appropriate amount of power to the electric brakes of your travel trailer.

Super easy to use. On the P3, you just select the size of the trailer and can then fine tune it from there.
 
#10 ·
What's does it weigh (loaded)? How much do you plan to trailer?


Many trailers have Surge Brakes which can work quite well too and less involved hookup wise. They are completely hydraulic so it's hard to have a failure.


You're length should not be an issue.


I tow a 4500Lb (boat and trailer) 20FT boat + 4ft for trailer no problem.
It has surge disc brakes that work fantastic. If I try to backup which engages it(without the disable) I NOT move. They can use Backup lights to disable reverse and/or a mechanical lockout.


But some (box) trailers are huge "Sails" and can be just as much a problem as weight or length.


Electric Brakes are fine and Weight Distribution Hitch are great but I would not automatically add it unless it's really gonna help.


If you don't have much air and not over 3500 Lbs you probably don't need weight distribution hitch. I think anything over 2000 Lbs needs brakes (Surge or Electric).


Almost nothing you have to do or add to truck for Surge Brakes.


Keep in mind some states have different laws on what's required/allowed.
 
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#11 ·
Good points mswlogo.

I guess I made a few assumptions with my recommendations. I have never seen a full size travel trailer with surge brakes, so made the assumption that electric brakes would be used.

In terms of the weight distribution hitch, it may not be needed for under 3500 lbs, but the addition of sway control makes a huge difference with that long of a trailer, so I would highly recommend one regardless. I highly doubt a loaded 22' trailer would be under 3500 anyway, but it might be close.

The best bet for jjacobs is to actually go to a reputable camper dealer (maybe he is buying the camper from one?) who can not only recommend what to do, but can actually install everything and make sure it is working properly. As you pointed out, they would be knowledgeable about local regulations as well.

In terms of your boat, are you using any sort of weight distribution hitch? I don't recall every seeing one used with surge brakes before.
 
#14 ·
Good points mswlogo.

I guess I made a few assumptions with my recommendations. I have never seen a full size travel trailer with surge brakes, so made the assumption that electric brakes would be used.

In terms of the weight distribution hitch, it may not be needed for under 3500 lbs, but the addition of sway control makes a huge difference with that long of a trailer, so I would highly recommend one regardless. I highly doubt a loaded 22' trailer would be under 3500 anyway, but it might be close.

The best bet for jjacobs is to actually go to a reputable camper dealer (maybe he is buying the camper from one?) who can not only recommend what to do, but can actually install everything and make sure it is working properly. As you pointed out, they would be knowledgeable about local regulations as well.

In terms of your boat, are you using any sort of weight distribution hitch? I don't recall every seeing one used with surge brakes before.
That's a great point, I never thought about Surge not working with WDH.

I just googled it. I guess you can.

International Telstar Owners Association • View topic - Equalizer Hitch

I have used a WDH with electric brakes. With a borrowed trailer to transport my Kubota Tractor a few times. WDH is a huge help.

My boat does not have a WDH, but should. I only ever have to tow it to a Marina for major repairs I won't tackle. Which is only a couple miles around a lake. But I have towed it on highway and it was fine. I'm surprised it could even legally be sold this way, but a ton are. It's only a single Axle too. It's 20' Tiga Full inboard. That's where I get my "V8" thrills from :) (350 GM Motor).

But I absolutely do not recommend it.
 
#12 ·
A trailer with surge/inertial brakes cannot use a WDH, so if that's the case, it can't be more than 3500 lbs based on Jeep's specifications. But Husker is correct, travel trailers unlikely have surge/inertial brakes. That's more of a factor with boat trailers, AFAIK.
 
#39 ·
I do understand, padgett. But that weight shift is still important for handling no matter what the suspension setup is because if the front end gets too light, it compromises steering and braking in a meaningful way.
Hmm, interesting. I guess I will have to look into this more.

I just towed a 2,200 pound UHaul trailer with a 3,500 pound vehicle on it. 5,700 pounds with a standard hookup going 70MPH. I wonder how much weight was on the tongue. Drove like normal though and I had zero issues. I think the self leveling shocks help put more weight back onto the trailer axles as the jeep doesn't sag at all out back with the trailer hooked up, Steering was normal.
 
#15 ·
Recently purchased a Laredo 240MK Keystone RV trailer which has an empty weight of 5400 lbs and length of 28' including tongue. It is high at 10'11", 15" tires and dual axles. Im sure I'll be at 6,200 lbs when towing.
Pulled it home with a 3 hour drive. No problem pulling but you do know its back there! Once the snow clears a bit more Ill be able to test it loaded :)
I use a Reese Dual Cam Anti-Sway weight distribution hitch. I would not pull without it (or something similar). The problem again (pulling large, boxy trailers) is not the pull power but the payload of the jeep (hitch weight factors in here) and the wheelbase. Make sure the WDH hitch is set up properly.

Boats tend to pull easier as they sit lower (center of gravity) and not subject to as much sway from the winds or semi's passing you.
I also tow a 22' center console. Again, big difference between boat vs rv trailer.

So, when pulling this larger rv, Ill go much slower when wind is present.

This is my second RV trailer with my '14 ecodiesel. Last camper was much smaller (22') and at 4300 lbs. No problem at all.
 
#16 ·
Seems to be something of a holy war here but for various reasons (do not want to add any load to the trailer axle) I do not use a WDH and have never felt any need for one.

My trailer is a retractable TrailManor 2720SL and I figure 4klbs with 460 lbs on the tongue but it has very low frontal area - little more than my GC. I do have the factory towing package but with a 2WD V6 there were no suspension, cooling, or altenator mods, just the receiver, wiring, and a full sized spare. I use a Tekonsha P2 controller because I got a deal on one.

At 65 mph cruise here in the flatlands and bursts to 70ish, it feels dead stable and can run a few hundred miles between stops NP. It is one of the sweetest towing rigs I've ever had. Usually sits a tad under 2k rpm and everything stays cool even at 90+F. Do see a downshift for the Thomas B. Manuel bridge but never gets near the 4800 rpm torque peak (more like 2300)

Not going to argue with those who recommend a WDH, just have the opinion that one is not always needed.

Do argue a bit with those who talk a about long vs short wheelbases, for me it is the ratio between the wheelbase and the distance from the centerline of the axle (easier than the suspension attachment point) to the hitch ball. In my case it is a 115" wb and 38" or a touch over 3:1. That is a nice place to be.

All I can say is that I can run from Orlando to South Florida nonstop and arrive relaxed. I know the trailer is there but it does not try to take control.
 
#24 ·
Seems to be something of a holy war here but for various reasons (do not want to add any load to the trailer axle) I do not use a WDH and have never felt any need for one.
What the Weight Distribution Hitch does is more evenly distribute the weight between the Rear Axle and the FRONT Axle of the towing Vehicle.

Having all the Tongue weight behind the rear Axle is what makes it handle poorly.

It might add a slight increased load to the towing axles, but mostly it's moving the weight to the center of the tow vehicle. Don't knock it until you've tried it.
 
#17 ·
Well if you don't see the advantages of a WDH, I don't know what to tell you......I'm not here to go all white knight on you, but to give the impression it's not needed is wrong....I never had one with my old 2300lbs tent trailer, but 4000+ it's helpful. I've driven short distances without putting my load bars on, and it's truly night and day, in terms of stability with the suspension and "bounciness", and steering control. Don't cheap out just because you think you're a good driver.....and for the record, I'm not some old grandpa Simpson shaking my fist on the porch, I'm 34, I'm a professional trained driver (paramedic), and I'm just stating fact ? safe pulling!
 
#18 ·
OK and perhaps I had better explain the reasoning. It is a 4k trailer with a 460 lb tongue. This is with 10 gal of fresh watter and little else.

The trailer was built with a 3.5k axle and I can see clean spots on the top of the plastic wheel well after about 1,000 miles. This is partly because I went from 1870 lb OEM tires to 2150 lb that are 1/2" taller.

One of the things a WDH does is to transfer force from the Tow Vehicle to the Trailer and I am reluctant to add any load to the trailer axle.

Now it this had been anything other than the sweetest pulling larger trailer I have ever had (and pulled some tandem axle trailers that were not as nice), I would have replaced the axle with a 5k unit. but it is smooth and my Jeep stays level and is well within any weight limits. No tendancy to sway or bounce and mostly unaffected by semis passing at considerably higher speeds.

Further while some like to misquote the Jeep manual what the OM (5th R1) for mine says is:
"A friction/hydraulic sway control mechanism and a weight distributing (load equalizing) hitch are recommended for heavier trailer tongue weights (TW) and may be required depending on Vehicle and Trailer configuration/loading to comply with gross axle weight rating (GAWR) requirements."

So the GAWR and tongue weight are both inside limits (as is the total weight and the frontal area which is mentioned in the OM) & do not want to add any load to the trailer.

Make more sense now ? Am sure some got bored long ago but before modifying anything you should consider the effect on every component in the system.
 
#19 ·
The WDH, aside from some stability benefits that many of them have, works to transfer some of that tongue weight from the back of the tow vehicle to the front axel for a more stable and safer towing experience. Even though our JGCs with factory towing have load leveling provisions, either via the rear shocks or QL, depending on how equipped, that doesn't rebalance the weight that's sitting on that ball. I absolutely can feel the difference in handling when there's 5000 lbs "back there" and the WDH mitigates that.
 
#21 ·
I do understand, padgett. But that weight shift is still important for handling no matter what the suspension setup is because if the front end gets too light, it compromises steering and braking in a meaningful way.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Understand all of that but what I am saying is the if the front gets too light and you would overload the trailer axle by torquing the trailer tongue/hitch (what a WDH really does) you should consider a different rig.

Since I personally do not want to add any more force to the single axle of my trailer & if the 460 lb tongue weight had affected the steering/braking, I would add air lifts to the rear axle to compensate rather than using a WDH. I could detect no meaningful effect so I did not bother but did consider everything to the point of purchasing the air lift system which is easily adjustable to the load.

While a WDH may be appropriate for many, it wasn't for my specific situation and am just saying that people should consider the ramifications and understand exactly what they are doing before blindly adding something. A GC with the factory towing package was well thought out.

Also since WDHs come in a range of weight ratings, make sure you know what is appropriate for your system before purchase. I suspect a 600 lb system would be appropriate for many GCs & would be a good starting point.

Frankly a better initial investment IMNSHO would be for a TPMS for the trailer tires you can monitor at the TV with temperature as well as pressure.
 
#23 ·
I was going to give you some benefit of the doubt early on in the conversation, but it's apparent you are just choosing not to acknowledge that regardless of the situation, WDH > no WDH. suspension doesn't make up for what a WDH does, which is transfer tongue load weight (and in the same manner a percentage of gvr) across the entire unit rather than hang it on the back of the jeep. There is just no argument about why it's bad. Can you overdo WD? Sure, and it feels like you're driving a wheelbarrow but like everything else if it's set up neutrally as its supposed to, it can be felt while driving, and it's night and day between 4500 lbs with no wdh.
 
#25 ·
It is not recommended by trailmanor to use a WDH on the folding models. So you are doing the right thing. With the smaller frontal area and rear wheels set back it virtually eliminates sway. The tongue weight is also higher, which contributes to the stability (17%). With rear leveling on the tow vehicle you will be in good shape. For virtually all other 4k+ trailers a WDH is beneficial.
 
#32 ·
In terms of towing, gas mileage, and tread wear, you wont see much difference between the two stock wheel/tire combinations. The 18 inch combination may offer a little better ride quality, as the taller tire sidewall is able to absorb more shock than the shorter 20 inch sidewalls.

I went with 18's because I do go offroad regularly. For you, it may just be which one you like the looks of better.
 
#34 ·
Hi! JJacobs, I've been looking for someone like you to network with. We are pulling a North Trail 22FBS (which they say is 30' end to end) with our 2014 Jeep Summit Ecodiesel. It is pulling it fine as far as power. The trailer weighs 4700# unloaded. But we're getting little jerky sway movements even though we have sway bars, weight distribution bars, etc. We are planning to have the Hensley hitch (guaranteed no sway, they say) installed later this week. Very expensive though and wishing there was another solution or something we're missing, but I'm thinking that even though we have the weight pulling capability with the Jeep, we just don't have the wheelbase. Did you get your Jeep and how's it pulling?
 
#36 ·
Hi! JJacobs, I've been looking for someone like you to network with. We are pulling a North Trail 22FBS (which they say is 30' end to end) with our 2014 Jeep Summit Ecodiesel. It is pulling it fine as far as power. The trailer weighs 4700# unloaded. But we're getting little jerky sway movements even though we have sway bars, weight distribution bars, etc. We are planning to have the Hensley hitch (guaranteed no sway, they say) installed later this week. Very expensive though and wishing there was another solution or something we're missing, but I'm thinking that even though we have the weight pulling capability with the Jeep, we just don't have the wheelbase. Did you get your Jeep and how's it pulling?
 
#38 ·
FYI- Here is my previous postOriginally Posted by urbangirl211
I didn't see any post regarding if the Hensley hitch made any difference for you. We're getting sway pulling our North Trail 22FBS with out 2014 Jeep GC Summit 4x4 ecodiesel. We have the Curt system (WD hitch and bars) and sway bars. Not sure how the trailer sway dampening works with this setup. Feeling frustrated and want to get it right so we can enjoy the travels.

Yes, I purchased the Hensley Hitch and I believe it was somewhat helpful. Sway was reduced. It is a well made product and the staff is excellent. That said, I still did not care for the entire set up.... as the Jeep did not feel completely in control 100% of the time. It was almost impossible to get the distribution on the Hensley to level out the Jeep to my satisfaction (Reese strait line, anti-sway did not have this problem). The Hensley was adding more weight to the payload and hitch issue. I believe the total payload and wheel base length of the Jeep was certainly factor(s). And, hooking up the Hensley was an additional pain in the *ss factor.
Our plans do include some major, cross country road trips so my decisions also have this information factored into my equation. I believe this to be a personal "feeling" and not necessarily the same for everyone. That said, as mentioned previously, I pulled a 4200 lb, 21' Coachmen trailer prior with the Jeep and had absolutely no problem whatsoever. But my new 2015 Laredo 240MK is much taller, longer & heavier.
So..... went to the dealer and tried the Ram 1500 ecodiesel. The dealer was kind enough to loan it to me for a weekend and allow me to tow. It pulled so much better. Very nice vehicle. But the payload factor still was bothering me. The model I had borrowed still only had 990 lbs payload left according to the door sticker. Subtract a hitch of 610lbs, 70 lb distribution hitch system, passenger and more stuff and now riding on "empty".
Back to the dealer- and threw in the towel! Bought a Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel, 4x4. NOW, it's NO PROBLEM. I feel safe and in control. It has tow haul modes + an exhaust brake (awesome). Payload is a whopping 2,200 lbs. It may be overkill but I got sick and tired of trying different "fixes". Last week we completed a 1100 mile trip and it was perfect. Also, it was very windy on a portion of our trip but again, felt totally in control and planted on the ground. I used the Reese strait line anti sway system already owned and returned the Hensley for a refund. The downside is this is a real truck and rides like one. Suspension is stiff and ride is bumpy. Need a ladder to get in the bed!
If I had enough cash lying around I would have kept the Jeep as well. I really liked it.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I will look up the specs of your trailer - what year is it? Gee, I spent a lot of time researching and setting up hitches so maybe could be helpful. Also, feel free to send a private message if you like to discuss via phone.
 
#40 ·
One of the challenges with rental trailers with surge brake revolves around what you describe, Zybane...not exceeding safe tongue weight, etc. Load leveling doesn't do any weight transfer at all, so one has to consider all the implications of pulling a load that exceeds the Jeep specifications for WDH when you can't actually use said WDH. You can faddle with the tongue weight a little by how you position the load on the trailer relative to it's balance point, but shifting it too far back and also make things incredibly unstable.
 
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