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2017 Summit in snow

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2017 summit
18K views 100 replies 35 participants last post by  Silroc88 
#1 ·
OK...love my 2017 Summit!
But today I was a little disappointed in it.
We got some 11inches of snow, and Summit could not handle it.
Maybe I was expecting a bit too much from it but i was stuck and could not move out an inch.
I was in snow mode.
What am I doing wrong?
Please let me know your thoughts.
Thanks,
P
 
#3 ·
I believe that snow mode partially disables traction control. On your vehicle holding the traction control button in for 5 seconds should totally disable it. That allows wheels to spin, which sometimes helps the tires dig down to a solid surface.


But, all snow is not the same. I've driven through 12 inches of snow with a rear will drive sedan, and have had trouble in 6 inches with 4wd.


--
 
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#4 · (Edited)
You need AT's or Snows for snow. PERIOD.

I used to have an Audi Quattro that I could lock the Rear Diff and the Center Diff.

It was like Skies on the summer tires. Then I got some narrow Nokian's and it was a Tank WITHOUT diff's locked.

I switch to 18" for Winter as well to better handle pot holes.

It does not add all that much cost because your not burning up rubber on your summer tires in winter. Only addition cost is a set RIM's in the long run.

I have Dodge Durango RIM's on for the Winter :)

Tires are MORE important than your drive train.

After you have the correct tires, ONLY then will the drive train be able to do it's job.

I run Nokian's on my wifes FWD VW CC and it's a tank in the snow.

Doesn't have to be Nokan's, those are just my favorite, they are very expensive but they last a long long time.

Just about any tire rated as a SNOW Tire will make a huge difference.
 
#7 ·
You need AT's or Snows for snow. PERIOD.

I used to have an Audi Quattro that I could lock the Rear Diff and the Center Diff.

It was like Skies on the summer tires. Then I got some narrow Nokian's and it was a Tank WITHOUT diff's locked.

I switch to 18" for Winter as well to better handle pot holes.

It does not add all that much cost because your not burning up rubber on your summer tires in winter. Only addition cost is a set RIM's in the long run.

I have Dodge Durango RIM's on for the Winter :)

Tires are MORE important that your drive train.

After you have the correct tires, ONLY then will the drive train be able to do it's job.

I run Nokian's on my wifes FWD VW CC and it's a tank in the snow.

Doesn't have to be Nokan's, those are just my favorite, they are very expensive but they last a long long time.
Yes...i dont have snow tires...it never really snows here in Oregon that much but this snowfall was 5th heaviest ever!
 
#9 · (Edited)
To put it in 4 low drive slow, about 1 mph to 3 mph and push the 4 low button (it's a button to the left of the snow/rock dial, opposite side of where the air suspension up/down button are found) until it registers and turns on. Don't ever go at speeds above say 25 - 30 once in 4 low. To get out of 4 Low you also have to be crawling slowly and push the button. It doesn't necessarily work to put it in and out of 4 low from a complete stop because something has to line up so the Jeep has to be rolling slowly. I used 4 low once in heavy wet snow and it made the Jeep unstoppable even up hills. 4 low I believe makes all 4 wheels turn at the same speed and thus helps prevent slipping and wheel spin. I didn't know about Snow mode not allowing OR 2 height, that doesn't make sense. Does it do that even if you put in in Snow Mode first and then Push the up button 2 - 3 times to get all the way up?
 
#11 ·
How you gonna drive slow when your stuck?

Be really careful using 4 Low on the street even with snow on the road.

Personally I would NEVER put in 4 Lo unless on loose dirt, or on frozen lake.
If you gain traction in a turn on pavement you are really stressing the system.

Also 4 Lo can CAUSE you to go into a spin.

30 mph in 4-Lo yikes.

But you are correct it may not have gone into 4-Lo unless the drive train is "relaxed".
 
#12 ·
Fit snow tires on your Grand Cherokee and you'll go places. Take a winter driving course, too.
 
#15 ·
ppjeep, here ya go . . .

I replaced my Fortera's with the new Nitto Grappler G2 265 50R20 and they are amazing! With their aggressive lug pattern & deep siping, they have a great bite in the snow, a quiet ride, excellent traction off-road, and now offer a 50/65,000 mile treadwear warranty! A great all around AT tire!
 
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#21 ·
I replaced my Fortera's with...
FYI, the MY17 doesn't come with Forteras outside of the base Laredo. He has either the standard Bridgestone Ecopia H/L 422 Plus Black Sidewall All-Season or the optional Pirelli Scorpion Verde Black Sidewall All-Season on his Summit.
 
#20 ·
From the owner's manual:


QUADRA-TRAC II®/QUADRA-DRIVE II® FOUR-WHEEL


DRIVE




Quadra-Trac II®/Quadra-Drive II® Operating Instructions/Precautions






• The Quadra-Trac II®/Quadra-Drive II®








transfer case is fully automatic in the


normal driving 4WD HI mode. The






Quadra-Trac II®/Quadra-Drive II® transfer








case provides three mode positions:


• 4WD HI


• NEUTRAL


• 4WD LOW


• This transfer case is fully automatic in


the 4WD HI mode.


• When additional traction is required,


the 4WD LOW position can be used


to lock the front and rear driveshafts


together and force the front and rear


wheels to rotate at the same speed.


The 4WD LOW position is intended for loose, slippery surfaces only. Driving in the


4WD LOW position on dry, hard-surfaced roads may cause increased tire wear and


damage to driveline components.


• When operating your vehicle in 4WD LOW, the engine speed is approximately three


times that of the 4WD HI position at a given road speed. Take care not to overspeed


the engine and do not exceed 25 mph (40 km/h).






NOTE:








If shift conditions/interlocks are not met, or a transfer case motor temperature


protection condition exists, a “For 4x4 Low Slow Below 5 mph (8 km/h) Put Trans in


N Press 4 Low” message will flash from the Electronic Vehicle Information Center


(EVIC).


























Shifting Procedures






4WD HI To 4WD LOW








• With the vehicle at speeds of 0 to 3 mph (0 to 5 km/h), the ignition switch in the


ON/RUN position or the engine running, shift the transmission into NEUTRAL,


and press the “4WD LOW” button once on the transfer case switch. The “4WD


LOW” indicator light in the instrument cluster will begin to flash and remain on


solid when the shift is complete.






4WD LOW To 4WD HI








• With the vehicle at speeds of 0 to 3 mph (0 to 5 km/h), the ignition switch in the


ON/RUN position or the engine running, shift the transmission into NEUTRAL,


and press the “4WD LOW” button once on the transfer case switch. The “4WD


LOW” indicator light in the instrument cluster will flash and turn off when the shift


is complete.






NOTE:








• If the shift conditions/interlocks are not met, or a transfer case motor temperature


protection exists, a “For 4x4 Low Slow Below 5 mph (8 km/h) Put Trans in N Press


4 Low” message will flash on the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC).


• Shifting into or out of 4WD LOW is possible with the vehicle completely stopped;


however, difficulty may occur due to the mating clutch teeth not being properly


aligned. Several attempts may be required for clutch teeth alignment and shift


completion to occur. The preferred method is with the vehicle rolling 0 to 3 mph


(0 to 5 km/h). If the vehicle is moving faster than 3 mph (5 km/h), the transfer case


will not allow the shift.




Quadra-Lift™






• The Quadra-Lift™ air suspension system


provides full time load leveling


capability along with the benefit of


being able to adjust vehicle height by


the push of a button. Quadra-Lift™ is






available with both Quadra-Trac II®








and Quadra-Drive II™.


• The system requires that the engine be


running for all changes. When lowering


the vehicle all of the doors, including


the liftgate, must be closed






• The Quadra-Lift™ air suspension system uses a lifting and lowering pattern which


keeps the headlights from shining into oncoming traffic. When raising the vehicle,


the rear of the vehicle will move up first and then the front. When lowering the


vehicle, the front will move down first and then the rear.


• After the engine is turned off, you may notice that the air suspension system


operates briefly. This is normal. The system is correcting the position of the


vehicle.


• To assist with changing a spare tire, the Quadra-Lift™ air suspension system has


a feature which allows the automatic leveling to be disabled. Press and hold both


the “Up” and “Down” buttons simultaneously between 5 and 10 seconds; a


message will appear in the EVIC stating leveling has been disabled immediately


after both buttons have been released. Driving the vehicle over 5 mph (8 km/h) will


return the air suspension to normal operation.


• An audible chime will be heard whenever a system error has been detected.






Operation








• Pressing the “Up” or “Down” button once will move the suspension one position


higher or lower from the current position, assuming all conditions are met (i.e.,


engine running and all doors and liftgate closed).


• The 4 indicator lamps will illuminate to show the current position of the vehicle.


Flashing indicator lamps will show a position which the system is working to


achieve. If multiple indicator lamps are flashing on the “Up” button, the highest


flashing indicator lamp is the position the system is working to achieve.


• Normal Ride Height (NRH) – This is the standard position of the


suspension and is meant for normal driving. Only the bottom Indicator


lamp on the “Up” button will be illuminated when the vehicle is in this


position.


• Off-Road 1 (OR1) (Raises the vehicle approximately 1.3 in (33 mm) –


This position is intended for off-road driving only where vehicle speeds


may go above 25 mph (40 km/h). Press the “Up” button once from


NRH while vehicle speed is below 48 mph (77 km/h). The bottom two


Indicator lamps on the “Up” button will be illuminated when the


vehicle is in OR1.


• Off-Road 2 (OR2) (Raises the vehicle approximately 2.6 in (65 mm) –


This position is intended for off-road driving where maximum ground


clearance is required. Press the “Up” button twice from NRH, or once


from OR1 position while vehicle speed is below 20 mph (32 km/h).


All three Indicator lamps on the “Up” button will be illuminated when


the vehicle is in OR2.








 
#27 ·
The 20" tires used to be Forteras, which are actually pretty decent in the snow for an all-season tread. You probably have the Bridgestone 20" tires, correct? I bet they are just really crappy tires for now. The tread design looks to be more like a highway tire than even a typical all-season light truck tire. I've had nothing but good experiences with the Forteras on my Overland. For the hit-and-miss snow here in NY, I don't even bother to switch over to dedicated snow tires.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I was considering a second set of wheels (18") and actual snow tires and just switching them out. Keep the stock 20s for the rest of the year.
That's probably the best solution. I wish I could...but....

For me though, I need a set of tires to run all year. I've driven to work over 2000km away in July and don't return (with the JGC, I fly home for my weeks off)until January......so I need tires that are 'good' all year....and that will allow me through the mountains in the winter.
 
#33 · (Edited)
I've been pretty impressed with how my 15 Limited has been handling the snow this winter in Portland. I just drove from NE all the way up and over Skyline this morning. I've got different tires than you, which could be part of it. I've also been itching to get a separate set for winter too, but like trumpet173 says, it usually only snows maybe once a year with 2-3 inches.
 
#34 ·
I've been pretty impressed with how my 15 Limited has been handling the snow this winter in Portland. I just drove from NE all the way and over Skyline this morning. I've got different tires than you, which could be part of it. I've also been itching to get a separate set for winter too, but like trumpet173 says, it usually only snows maybe once a year with 2-3 inches.


We're on the same page as I live in Eugene :)
 
#36 · (Edited)
I have a 2014 Overland running the stock gy forteras and haven't had a major issue with snow (ice is a different matter) but now that they have worn down I will say it's time to think about new shoes.

Research shows that 2017 Summits should come with Pirellie Scorpion Verde all seasons which according to some reviews I have read on tirerack should be a nice upgrade from the forteras used previously.
 
#40 · (Edited)
Yes, the Defender LTX is marked M/S.

I don't know of any tires out there with the snowflake that are not actual winter tires. Some people from the forum use the Nokian WRG3 SUV as a year-round tire, but if you look at Nokian's website, they sort of classify it as an all season/winter tire, but I doubt it would last as long as the Defender.

Here's a thread discussing both tires...
http://www.jeepgarage.org/f109/michelin-defender-ltx-m-s-vs-nokian-wrg3-suv-92126.html
 
#41 ·
The Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires that I use, have the snowflake. That's the main reason I bought them! They are awesome in everything winter, without being a 'dedicated' winter tire! :thumbsup:
 
#43 · (Edited)
I just did an extensive image search of the G2, as well as looked at Nitto's site, and I can't find the mountain/snowflake symbol on any G2 tire. The M+S was there, but no snowflake. Any chance you could take a pic of yours.

Not trying to call you a liar, just trying to confirm.

Just checked Nitto's site again...it looks like the Exo Grappler AWT has the snowflake symbol. And with this bit of research, I'm thinking there is a new tire designation out there..."All weather". This appears to be the new designation for what is basically a full time winter tire. So far, every tire I've found with the all-weather designation does have the snowflake, but also has longer tread life than a conventional winter tire.
 
#46 ·
wow! didnt expect 4 pages in this thread! thank you!
great information.

Today I got the new winter studless tires that are traction approved. Yokohama ice guard ig51v.
Got 4 tires and placed them on existing rims. I already saw huge improvement in car handling.

As far as raising the car...I placed it in highest height and then in snow...but car started moving back down. Sounds like I first have to place in snow mode and then try to raise the car, right?

Lots to learn....
 
#49 ·
As far as raising the car...I placed it in highest height and then in snow...but car started moving back down. Sounds like I first have to place in snow mode and then try to raise the car, right?
Yes, I mentioned that earlier in the thread. But don't expect to drive far/fast at OR-II level since there's a 25 MPH limit at that top height and I'm sure your kidneys wouldn't like it, either. ;) (there's very little suspension travel left at OR-II) Use that level only when needed; OR-I level is good up to 45 MPH. In either case, when you exceed the allowable speed, the vehicle will reduce to the next lowest level until you reach "normal" height at 45 MPH or greater.
 
#47 ·
I don't have a whole lot to add to what has already been said, but here's my story from a few days ago.

My JGC is a 2015 Limited Ecodiesel with ORA2, so it has all the goodies. Rear ELSD, air suspension, and QD2. I also have Nokian Hakkapelitta R2 SUV tires on it right now. They're a good studless winter tire. I have them on separate wheels so I can swap them easily myself at the beginning and end of winter. Something to note about the Nokian Hakkapelitta R2 SUV tires is that they have a directional tread biased to enhance braking in snow instead of acceleration.

We've had 12" - 15" of snow lately with temps down to the double digit negative (Fahrenheit). It's very powdery. Somewhere in the middle of the multiple snow events, it warmed up enough to melt the top layer, which promptly froze to the ground/pavement below as glare ice. So now there's 12" of powder on glare ice.

I maintain a small remote datacenter. When we get snow or heavy ice, I have to go clear it away from the doors and the standby generator. This was one of those times, so I tossed my snow shovel in the back and headed over there.

There's a small unplowed parking lot beside it. I had no trouble getting into the lot and parking.

When I was all done, I popped it into snow mode and attempted to leave by driving forward. There was some forward movement for a couple feet and then it bogged down. I tried backing up and going forward a couple times, but it was obvious I wasn't going anywhere.

I tried sand mode because I know that doesn't pull power when the wheels spin, but still no go.

So I hopped out and grabbed the shovel from the back. I cleared in front of all four tires for a couple feet and hopped back in. It still wasn't moving forward.

I had had enough at that point and I decided to engage all the toys. In this order: Sand mode, check (locks rear diff). Off road 2 air suspension height, check. 4-lo, check (locks center diff).

Tried to move forward. Not even inches. Tried reverse and it drove right out. The directional tread had better traction in reverse because it was designed to enhance braking.

Moral of the story? Nope. No moral. It was very immoral. It felt wrong. The last time I had to shovel a vehicle out of the snow because it was stuck was a 2000 Honda Civic on summer tires.

The only consolation was that a big shag-nasty 4WD pickup with gnarly tires was stuck at the same time about 50 feet from me. They also had to dig themselves out.

Sometimes conditions just suck and your vehicle is irrelevant.
 
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#48 ·
I understand that in an area with rare snow you would find it difficult to have dedicated studless snow and ice tires. I live in Northeast. I have a set of wheels with Bridgestone Blizzak Snows. Have always had dedicated winter tires. All seasons and even all terrain do not have the compounds to stay soft and afford the traction on ice and snow that the dedicated rubber compounds in the "made for winter" tires. While you will not have difficulty with getting going with the 4WD the turning and stopping is a challenge.
 
#55 ·
I had my Summit in about 6-7" of snow with ice underneath last weekend and was quite impressed, never lost traction and I was trying. The stock tires suck but I don't have them (have Continentals) and they never lost grip despite my suspicion they'd suck as well. Driveway was pure ice and had no issues getting in and out for several days before it all melted.


Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage
 
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