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  #37  
Old 10-08-2011, 11:09 AM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

^^^

I'm sure something has to be drilled into for the bottom two.....will see later.
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  #38  
Old 10-08-2011, 01:47 PM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan JGC View Post
^^^

I'm sure something has to be drilled into for the bottom two.....will see later.
What I was thinking was removing the two bottom rubber bumpers and possible adding 2 of the top grommets, if possible, and putting short screws that won't hit the metal. Not sure if it will work without seeing everything but just a thought. I just ordered the 2 top grommets from the dealer and will see if I can rig them on the bottom with out drilling a hole. Worse case you drill a hole for the bottom two, brush some rust inhibitor on the exposed metal, put 2 grommets from the top in and, viola! Who wants to do it? Also I noticed there is a small piece of trim on the inside of the liftgate that appears it maight give access to just behind the license plate on the back side. I might take that trim off and see what's back there.
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  #39  
Old 10-18-2011, 07:07 PM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

They sell Carlos, HQ, and so the screw holes in the back of the rubber shock absorber parts. Why not use the screw to the plate first, and then installed on the top plate? Pressure to maintain the vehicle at least the pressure plate / bumper
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  #40  
Old 10-19-2011, 04:14 AM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

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Originally Posted by Dan JGC View Post
Well.....took my Summit in for it's first service and oil change (just reached 3,500 miles today too....I know, I know, I shoulda taken it in for the first oil change at 1,000 but got to busy and put it off...also, yep, I only have 3,500 miles in 6 months). They did the TSB 18-035-11 which really changed the shifting of the V8/trans and it is noticeably smoother...didn't really have an issue with the shifting after 1,000 miles though anyway (was a bit rough and hunting around 35 up and down at times)...and the keyless TSB 08-024-11 REV A since my keyless FOB wasn't being recognized maybe 30% of the time now...annoying...but now apparently addressed.

Oddly, the tech wrote that they can't add license plate bolt/screw fasteners for the bottom two screw holes for my license plate (rear only). I like to have the license plate secured with all four screws (I have my own stainless steal ones so no rust...my transferred plate has wear marks from four screws so makes it look a bit shabby with only two screws now....picky I know). Anyone know if that is true or not...or perhaps the tech was confused as the written response was "THE BUMPER CANNOT BE MODIFIED DUES TO BRACING BEHIND THE COVER". Not sure what he means since it is on the lift gate, not the bumper.... Anyone got a thought on this???

Any thoughts are much appreciated....
The dealer told me that i-could go 8,000 miles before i-needed to get a change..I was thinking like 4-5,000. Did you get a msg on your screen to change your oil?
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  #41  
Old 10-19-2011, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gold Rat Tooth View Post
The dealer told me that i-could go 8,000 miles before i-needed to get a change..I was thinking like 4-5,000. Did you get a msg on your screen to change your oil?
I did. I got the oil change message in the evic around 3400 miles after a little over 5 months.

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  #42  
Old 10-19-2011, 02:38 PM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

On cars that just have the two top holes, I install rubber little "titties" on the bottom two holes. I get from the local auto parts store. They are literally rubber nipples that will pull through the hole and provide a firm backing to plate so it doesn't rattle or move around, and it protects your paint's finish. You can generally find them in the Dorman section of your parts store (where all the odds and ends are - bolts, upholstery fastneners, etc...). You want to get the smaller firm titties, not the great big ones in this case. Ask for them by name. Good luck.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan JGC View Post
Well.....took my Summit in for it's first service and oil change (just reached 3,500 miles today too....I know, I know, I shoulda taken it in for the first oil change at 1,000 but got to busy and put it off...also, yep, I only have 3,500 miles in 6 months). They did the TSB 18-035-11 which really changed the shifting of the V8/trans and it is noticeably smoother...didn't really have an issue with the shifting after 1,000 miles though anyway (was a bit rough and hunting around 35 up and down at times)...and the keyless TSB 08-024-11 REV A since my keyless FOB wasn't being recognized maybe 30% of the time now...annoying...but now apparently addressed.

Oddly, the tech wrote that they can't add license plate bolt/screw fasteners for the bottom two screw holes for my license plate (rear only). I like to have the license plate secured with all four screws (I have my own stainless steal ones so no rust...my transferred plate has wear marks from four screws so makes it look a bit shabby with only two screws now....picky I know). Anyone know if that is true or not...or perhaps the tech was confused as the written response was "THE BUMPER CANNOT BE MODIFIED DUES TO BRACING BEHIND THE COVER". Not sure what he means since it is on the lift gate, not the bumper.... Anyone got a thought on this???

Any thoughts are much appreciated....
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  #43  
Old 05-01-2013, 01:14 PM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

Well....I'm anal retentive, too. I want the other two screws for my plate as well, not only to stop the rattling, but for the much better appearance. I have a 2014 Summit. The dealer's body shop said, "don't do it. It will rust." The other salesperson from the service shop said the same thing. A local body shop told me to use double sided tape between the plate and plate holder, and rubber tabs behind the plate (they stick on similar to the ones on the back of fancy paintings). Also, I'll cut the two fancy bolts I have shorter for the bottom and will screw them into a nut and will cover it with a rubber cap from behind. That should only take a few hours to satisfy my license plate issue.
Hope that helps.
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  #44  
Old 05-01-2013, 01:54 PM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

I bought a plain black frame. I used 2 black nylon 1/4 -20 bolts to hold the plate to the bottom of the frame. I painted the heads of the Jeep supplied screws black. No rattles and no empty holes.

The frame was $3 in Wally World.

If you don't want a frame, just put two nylon bolts through the plate.
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  #45  
Old 05-02-2013, 12:59 PM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

<TABLE id=post13908510 class=tborder cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD id=td_post_13908510 class=alt1 style="BORDER-RIGHT: rgb(0,0,0) 1px solid">Mopar makes a "Standard Rear License Plate Installation Kit"
Pkg #05160297AB ~ Part #05160296AB
This kit should have been included in the plastic bag that holds the mats, fobs, front license plate bracket, ect., when shipped from the factory.

This package is included in many new Chrysler vehicles and includes two license plate mounting screws, (for the top two mounting holes), and two small square adhesive backed foam pads, to be mounted on the body underneath the lower license plate mounting holes. On a Grand Cherokee these pads mount in two small square recesses found on the rear tailgate under the lower license plate mounting holes to steady the plate and prevent it from scratching the painted tailgate.

This "Mopar kit" mentioned above, and the Cruiser anti-rattle kit mentioned below, should work well together to secure the plate, fill all four license plate holes with a screw, and stop all rattles!

Cruiser Accessories Rattle Stop Locking Fasteners for License Plate Frames - Stainless Steel - Qty 2 Cruiser Accessories and Parts CR81400

And for all you really anal types who want all stainless matching mounting screws front & rear, or just 4 matching rear screws, with the option to use anti-tamper hardware with no rattling;

Cruiser Accessories Ultimate Kit for Mounting License Plates and License Plate Frames Cruiser Accessories and Parts CR81500
<!-- / message -->

You could probably find the adhesive backed foam squares at Lowes or Home Depot and save the trouble of getting the "Mopar kit" if your dealer didn't already stick the squares on the back of your tailgate like he was supposed too!









</TD></TR><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-TOP: 0px; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: 1px solid"></TD><TD class=alt1 style="BORDER-TOP: 0px; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: 0px" align=right><!-- controls --></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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  #46  
Old 05-02-2013, 01:19 PM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

You sure can learn a lot on the interwebs. I'm planning on transferring my license plates when I buy a WK2 and have one more thing to look out for. I paid $100 for plates like the one below that are modeled after the 1950s plate design and half of that money went to the state historical society. I did get a little extra scutiny at the ag. inspection station on the California border just after getting these as the inspectors had never seen them before.
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  #47  
Old 05-02-2013, 08:30 PM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

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Originally Posted by sined240 View Post
No. Its a constant debate when to do the 1st oil change. I say do it at 3000.
Phhhtttt!
I didn't do my first oil change until 6K and that was only because the reminder came on (sat on the dealer lot for a few months).
Owner's manual for 2012 says 8k between oil changes.
Check your owners manual!
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  #48  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:35 PM
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Re: Can't have 4 screws for rear license plate??? Huh?

I also have a Prestige tag that was marred from a previous vehicle that had four bolts.
Pep Boys has a bolt kit called the "Ultimate Kit" that includes about 6 different grommets,screws and bolts to fit almost anything. One is a threaded RUBBER grommet and a short screw. I put the grommet in the bottom holes on the plate and used the short screw. It is short enough that with the rubber grommet it acts like a bumper because it does not go all the through the grommet. It matches the longer screw or bolt that hold the plate in place. The plate also hangs straight and does not touch the tailgate because of the rubber grommet. I also used a chrome plate frame and it keeps it away from the paint. I can' figure out how to post a picture but I have one on my phone.


This threaded grommet from PEP Boy I am talking about looks just like the link Raptor has posted from Mopar.
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