Okay guys & gals I want to share with you my upgrade I done on my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with the HID headlights. OEM parts numbers 68111000AE & 68111001AE. I want to say that I was very disappointing with the HID headlights on my $57,000.00 Overland from day one. These OEM HID units are a 12VDC system with a 35 watt D3S HID blub. The ballast is a 45VDC system which fires the OEM 4300K D3S blub. I have been working on this for about a month and have tried several types of combinations with other HID blubs and I will tell you without question the OSMAR & Phillips HID blubs are the best on the market hands down. Believe me, I have spent about $1000.00 just on this project trying to get the best set-up. The problem is that with the 2014 HID headlights Jeep has gone to this (Get Green Environment) with the HID blub & ballast. Let me put that in simple language. The 2014 Jeep HID ballast is a Valeo 7Green @ 45VDC with a 35 watt OSRAM 4300K (66340HBI) D3S HID blub. So starting in 2014 Jeep has cut the ballast power by almost 50% from 2013 due to going (Environment Green) to save the earth as we all hear about these days. The best set-up that will give you the best light is with a Valeo 6G ballast @ 85VDC with a 35 watt OSMAR Cool Blue 5000K (66144CBI) D1S HID blub. With this set-up you can get 25% more light at night up to 5500K and a cool blue look. You can install a D3S OSMAR 6000K HID blub into the factory set-up, but you will lose almost 20% light over the factory D3S OSMAR 4300K HID blub. So to gain 25% more light and get up to 5500K and a cool blue look the 85VDC Valeo 6G ballast and the D1S OSMAR Cool Blue 5000K HID blub is the way to go hands down. But to do this you are going to need to make some changes to your factory HID headlights. It is not hard at all and can be done really easy with no problems. You will need to remove the HID headlights from your Jeep to do this. Also one thing !!!!! (YOU DO NOT HALF TO TAKE THE WHOLE FRONT END OFF YOUR JEEP !!!!). Listen, you can have both of your headlights out in about 1 hour. Now I am talking about the Overland, Limited & Laredo. I have no idea how the SRT & Summit Jeep front ends are because I have never worked with one. It might be the same but I cannot say. The only tools required to remove the HID headlights are a 10mm socket and a flat head screwdriver. There are 9 plastic push pens under the hood that you need to remove in order to get the front grille off and under each fender molding there are 2 plastic rivets, 2 plastic push pens & one 10mm nut that needs to be removed. After these items have been removed you can loosen the fender molding half way and then release the front grille by pulling it away from the headlights and both fenders. You can them fold the grille down in one piece while it is still attached at the bottom of vehicle. I used a cloths hanger to hold the front grille half way open so it would not go all the way to the ground. Believe me this is a lot better than taken the whole grille off the Jeep. Now to remove the HID headlights you need to remove one 10mm nut on top of the headlight then remove two move 10mm nuts at the bottom of headlight. Now you need to remove two more 10mm nuts on each side of the front fender. When you have all this done the headlight will pull straight out and there is one plug in the back of the HID unit that you need to unplug and the HID headlight is out. I have completed this on 2014 Jeep four times and have never had any issues doing it. There is no cutting are any mods that are required to your factory headlights to do this upgrade. The only mod that is required is to the new OSMAR D1S blub housing and connector. If you look at my photos below you will see that with the blub connector facing down and the blub facing up on the OEM D3S blub there is a notch at the top and another at the 3 o'clock position. The 2014 factory HID headlight housing will only that that configuration. If you look at the new D1S blub, holding it in the same way as the D3S blub. You will see that there is also a notch at the top of blub housing and another at the 10 o'clock position on the D1S blub. So to get the D1S blub to fit into the Jeep factory housing you are going to put another notch in the blub housing at the 3 o'clock position like the OEM D3S blub. This is very easy to do. Just make sure you don't touch the glass blub while you are working on it. You can wipe the glass blub off with rubbing alcohol when you get done just to make sure it is oil free. To put the notch in the 3 o'clock position take a dermal tool and a 7/64" drill bit and drill a hole in the side of the blub housing to match the OEM D3S blub housing. You can clean the new notch out with an X-Acto knife like photo below. Once you get this done you will need to remove the lip inside the connector on the D1S blub (See Photo) so the factory OEM blub harness will plug into the new D1S blub connector. This can be done by using the X-Acto knife and cutting the lip off the inside of the D1S blub connector. It is really soft material and easy to cut. After you have completed the mods to the new D1S blub it will fit right in the factory Jeep headlight housing and plug right up to the connector on the D1S blub. The next step is to replace the OEM 45VDC 7Green ballast. You will remove the two star screws and the ballast will pull straight out from the housing. Now the new Valeo 6G 85VDC ballast will plug right into the factory housing with no problems. But you cannot use the star screws that were holding the OEM ballast. The 6G ballast is not as wide as the OEM 7Green ballast so you will need to use two more smaller screws . You can use the same holes in the housing with the smaller screws and it will hold just fine. Okay you are ready to reinstall the headlights back into your Jeep and enjoy your new HID system. I have been running this set-up for several months now with no issues on my 2014 Overland. I will try to answer some questions below that you might have. If I can help you or you have any questions please let me know. I will help you anyway I can if you decide that you want to do this mod on your 2014 factory headlights.
Questions and Answers
1) Will this void my warranty on my factory headlights? Remember you have not done any mods to your OEM factory headlight housing. You only changed the blub and ballast. You can always reinstall the OEM set-up anytime with no problems. If you are worried about your warranty I would not touch it "Period". I myself had to do something to get proper lighting at night to see. The OEM lighting was just awful.
2) Will this cause any light warnings on instrument cluster? I have not had any warning lights on my instrument cluster after this HID upgrade. I have been running this set-up for several months now,
3) After the HID upgrade will all the factory functions with the headlights work as before? Yes, there is no difference with any of my factory functions after this upgrade. Auto dim, auto leveling and etc will work just like before.
4) Will I need to have my headlights re-aligned? NO, NO, and NO. I have had mine out 4 times and never had I had to re-align them. They will only fit one and the mounting holes for the headlights are not adjustable.
5) Will these new 5000K HID blub melt my stock headlight lens? No, the OEM factory HID blubs were 35 watt and the new HID blubs are still 35 watts.
6) Is this upgrade better than the stock OEM 4300K system? To me, 100% yes. I have much better lighting at night than before.
HID Upgrade Parts:
I bought all my items from HID Concept @ HID Concept
(2ea) Valeo Ballast 6G
(1 Set) OSMAR 5000K D1S 35W HID Cool Blue Blubs
Parts To Reinstall Plastic Rivets:
These items can be gotten at Clips & Fasteners @ ClipsAndFasteners.com - Automotive Retainers,Clips and Fasteners
Black Nylon (4ea)
Panel Range: 5/32" - 3/8"
(1ea) Marson #48000 Klik-Lok Plastic Rivet Setter