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Just did an oil change on my '14 Summit

5K views 34 replies 19 participants last post by  Andoskyy 
#1 ·
Unbelievably easy. I've always changed the oil myself in all vehicles both present and past, but the Jeep has to be the easiest I've ever experienced. My wife's '10 4Runner is a royal PITA compared to the JGC since you need to drop the skid plate and pre-drain the oil filter (underneath).

I set the air suspension on the Jeep to off-road 2 (the highest setting) and did everything from the ground without having to get the floor jack out. I probably could've left the suspension as-is, but I figured I'd raise it as high as possible. Remove the filter (from the top with 24mm socket) and drain oil from underneath (13mm socket). Replace the oil filter. While the oil is draining, lightly clean under the hood, wash the salt off the floor mats, mop the RaceDeck flooring in the garage and put away misc tools left out after previous projects.

Add 6 qts of 5W-20 synthetic (I chose Mobil1) and call it a day. Easy peasy.
 
#2 ·
How boring. :(









Didn't you at least bang your knuckles and draw blood ...

... or drop a wrench and have to dig it out of the suspension some where ...

... or trip and spill a quart of oil all over the garage floor ...

... or have the suspension let loose and have the Jeep come down on your head ...

... or at least close the hood on your fingers?



If none of the above happened, you didn't really change your own oil. :lol:
 
#3 ·
If you're in Charlotte today/ tomorrow, my garage door will be open til 1800. Feel free to change the oil in my Limited. Sorry no QL, so you might have to work a little harder. Actually doing my first oil change on my '14 tomorrow, so you've given me some hope.

And if drop the hood on my head or even get a bloody knuckle...I'm coming after you Bill:)

Al
 
#4 ·
You'll be pleasantly surprised.. it's really a piece of cake. I try to do every service that I can on my cars and this is as basic as it comes. I'd seriously rank this as 1 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.
 
#5 · (Edited)
How long did you wait for the engine oil to drain out through the oil drain plug before you loosened the oil filter housing up top?

I guess what I'm asking is just how messy of a job is it replacing the oil filter in the GC? I'm used to the older style oil filter canister located underneath the engine...and having the ability to pre-fill the new oil filter before installing it.
 
#6 ·
I removed the oil filter BEFORE I removed the drain plug. Trust me, my garage is my sanctuary and is just as clean (if not cleaner) than the wife keeps the house. I have RaceDeck flooring installed and I'd literally eat off the floor. There was absolutely ZERO mess.
 
#8 ·
Just did my second change on Laredo 4x4. Drove onto small plastic ramps (camper leveling) on the front tires to get some room underneath. Wow it takes a long time for the oil to drain. Oil filter is a snap with no mess. Make sure to use 2014 filter on a 2014, 2013 filter is different. Reset oil change reminder.

Gravy.
 
#13 ·
Unbelievably easy. I've always changed the oil myself in all vehicles both present and past, but the Jeep has to be the easiest I've ever experienced. My wife's '10 4Runner is a royal PITA compared to the JGC since you need to drop the skid plate and pre-drain the oil filter (underneath). I set the air suspension on the Jeep to off-road 2 (the highest setting) and did everything from the ground without having to get the floor jack out. I probably could've left the suspension as-is, but I figured I'd raise it as high as possible. Remove the filter (from the top with 24mm socket) and drain oil from underneath (13mm socket). Replace the oil filter. While the oil is draining, lightly clean under the hood, wash the salt off the floor mats, mop the RaceDeck flooring in the garage and put away misc tools left out after previous projects. Add 6 qts of 5W-20 synthetic (I chose Mobil1) and call it a day. Easy peasy.
My two previous cars were a 95 Toyota 4Runner followed by the 2010 4Runner. Changing oil on the '95 was a piece of cake. The oil filter was right up on top and if you used an oil extracting pump (the only way to go IMHO) you didn't even need to get underneath the vehicle. Starting with the 2010 model they changed to a paper filter located at the bottom of the engine that required the removal of a plastic guard, a metal skid plate, and a filter housing that could only be removed with a special wrench. What a PITA! My new GC with the diesel motor has the filter up top again which should make the process pretty simple. Of course it does require 8 quarts of a special low ash synthetic oil that goes for $10 a quart and a $40 paper filter, but what the heck, you can't win 'em all.
 
#14 ·
I just changed mine as well with 2000mi on the clock using Mobil1. It took about 20 min for the oil to stop draining with the filter removed. I was only able to fit 5 3/4 quarts. After waiting 10 min after engine shutdown, the dipstick reads right up to the full line.

The quadralift suspension does make getting under the vehicle a breeze.
 
#17 ·
I changed my diesel at 4600 as that what was on the clock on the weekend before a long trip.
Has anyone looked at their filter element for shavings? I saw some on mine so the filter was doing its job.

Its always a difficult decision on when to change you want to get the oil out as soon as you can to get rid of the shavings but yet you want to leave it in to ensure everything seats properly and the engine breaks in while the original oil is still in there...just my thoughts.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I've always been a believer of breaking in an engine with dino oil, then changing over to synthetic. That's why I waited until 5000 miles before having the dealership perform the first oil change...and paying the extra money for them to use synthetic.

At 10,000 miles, I'll be performing my own oil/filter changes going forward (and buying a new Dimple magnetic drain plug) ...every 5000 miles using 5w20 Mobil 1 and a stock Chrysler 2014 oil filter.
 
#27 ·
I've always been a believer of breaking in an engine with dino oil, then changing over to synthetic. That's why I waited until 5000 miles before having the dealership perform the first oil change...and paying the extra money for them to use synthetic.
What are your thoughts on engines that come from the factory filled with synthetic oil like the SRT?
 
#20 ·
Anyone doing an oil analysis with the changed oil? And has anyone done *2* or more oil changes to compare?
I just sent in Factory oil for analysis with 6500 miles on it.

I will send in a couple more and plan on 7500 mile interval using Castrol Syntec 5w20.
 
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#25 ·
In terms of resetting the oil service indicator, I followed the below instructions and it reset the mileage back to zero, but the percentage of oil life remained the same (in my case, 71%). Not a big deal at all, but shouldn't it read 100% (or very close)? Any suggestions?


Jeep Grand Cherokee Pentastar 3.6L V6 Engine Oil Change & Filter Replacement Guide - 2011 To 2016 WK2 - Picture Illustrated Automotive Maintenance DIY Instructions

To reset the "Oil Change Due" or "Oil Change Required" message on the display, follow these steps: 1. Turn the ignition to the "Run" position (or press the "Engine Start/Stop" button twice) but do not start the engine. 2. Press the accelerator (gas) pedal down to the floor 3 times within 10 seconds. 3. Turn the ignition switch to the "Off" position (or press the "Start/Stop" button once). The next time you turn on the ignition, the message should be gone.
 
#26 ·
In terms of resetting the oil service indicator, I followed the below instructions and it reset the mileage back to zero, but the percentage of oil life remained the same (in my case, 71%). Not a big deal at all, but shouldn't it read 100% (or very close)? Any suggestions? Jeep Grand Cherokee Pentastar 3.6L V6 Engine Oil Change & Filter Replacement Guide - 2011 To 2016 WK2 - Picture Illustrated Automotive Maintenance DIY Instructions To reset the "Oil Change Due" or "Oil Change Required" message on the display, follow these steps: 1. Turn the ignition to the "Run" position (or press the "Engine Start/Stop" button twice) but do not start the engine. 2. Press the accelerator (gas) pedal down to the floor 3 times within 10 seconds. 3. Turn the ignition switch to the "Off" position (or press the "Start/Stop" button once). The next time you turn on the ignition, the message should be gone.
I seem to recall reading in another thread someone saying they literally had to perform the reset sequence 2 or 3 times before it returned to 100% oil life remaining. Doesn't really make sense to me but it's worth a try.
 
#29 ·
Since you never stopped by, wasupdu, I did my oil change yesterday. Like you said, easy peasy. Thanks for the socket sizes since 24MM might not be in most people's basic tool set. Picked one up at Lowes ( extended size with 1/2 inch size fitting, then a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter).

Then just reset my "oil life" with the "On-tap three times" method. Worked just fine.

Info: Changed oil and filter at 4100 miles (habit). No visible shavings in filter. Changed with Quaker State full synthetic ( once again, habit).

Al
 
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