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Roof Rail specs

13K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  moosehead 
#1 ·
Anyone know how the capacity (strength) on the roof rails compares to past models? I would definitely need a rack on top...on my '96 GC, I have yakima cross bars which I use with ski and kayak racks
Thanks
 
#3 · (Edited)
From the Owner's Manual:

"The load must not exceed 150 lbs (68 kg), and should be uniformly distributed over the luggage rack crossbars."
Booo on that. I was planning on clicking into my downhill skiis on the roof rack and getting up to 100 mph to perfect an aero tuck.

Can anyone please post photos of the mopar rack and mounting feet as it ties into the roof rails? Presume there is also a locking mechanism? Just fondling those rails at the dealer lot left me with the impression that an aftermarket mount may be stronger.
 
#8 ·
Bump.

Anyone please have photos of the roof rails and the mounts? Do these lock in place so the entire rack and its contents are reasonably secure?

The rooftop track rails alone look and feel a bit flimsy.

Thanks
 
#9 ·
Finally dug these cross bar install instructions out of the Mopar website. At a glance, not really encouraging.

http://moparestore.trademotion.com/moparimages/accessory%20catalog/images/isheets/K6860485.pdf

Unless additional rooftop attachments are locked above the mounting towers, it looks like anyone can come along with a torx bit and simply remove the cross bars and all attached gear?

Anyone have any real life observations? Bueller? Bueller?

At this point looks like I'll be sending these bars back and looking for a more robust aftermarket roof rack setup. It appears that no JGC mounts exist yet on Yakima or Thule sites other than the standard door top clamps.
 
#10 ·
The roof racks come with a key to lock them up, which the manual doesn't show. Having said that, I haven't actually tried to lock it myself. I can try and post some pics of the rail and mount points if anyone is interested. Too much work to put them on the jeep just for pics though - it's not a 5 minute install....
 
#11 ·
The roof racks come with a key to lock them up, which the manual doesn't show. Having said that, I haven't actually tried to lock it myself. I can try and post some pics of the rail and mount points if anyone is interested. Too much work to put them on the jeep just for pics though - it's not a 5 minute install....
+1 that's great to hear muzichio, thanks for that. Would appreciate any photos as well, even prior to mounting would be helpful.

Does it appear possible to use the same lock cores/keys for rack attachment like on the Yak/Thule setups?
 
#12 ·
Got the cross bars. They are reasonably strong and aero. Mopar sticker is attached to what appears to be a Thule OEM product.

Any ski/bike/kayak/clamshell box attachments will slide into either end of the cross bars and then the cap and lock secure all attachments to the bars. That portion looks like good security.

Still not sure that the cross bars themselves and any gear attached could not simply be removed from the top of the roof mounts per the two torx style bolts. Per the below photo, a traditional torx head wrench will not fit into the nuts that hold the cross bars to the top of the mounts. This is OK, but still could be unattached with this skeleton torx wrench.

The other possibility is that the ski/bike/kayak/clamshell box mounts could potentially be mounted and locked over these two skeleton torx bolts, preventing others from getting to them without unlocking the fixtures above.

Yea, I'm a bit anal retentive and the best bet is to take your gear inside. Regardless, many lose expensive gear from their roof racks if not squared away properly.

I'll recheck this with a local rack attack. Thoughts?
 

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#17 ·
Got the cross bars. They are reasonably strong and aero. Mopar sticker is attached to what appears to be a Thule OEM product.

Any ski/bike/kayak/clamshell box attachments will slide into either end of the cross bars and then the cap and lock secure all attachments to the bars. That portion looks like good security.

Still not sure that the cross bars themselves and any gear attached could not simply be removed from the top of the roof mounts per the two torx style bolts. Per the below photo, a traditional torx head wrench will not fit into the nuts that hold the cross bars to the top of the mounts. This is OK, but still could be unattached with this skeleton torx wrench.

The other possibility is that the ski/bike/kayak/clamshell box mounts could potentially be mounted and locked over these two skeleton torx bolts, preventing others from getting to them without unlocking the fixtures above.

Yea, I'm a bit anal retentive and the best bet is to take your gear inside. Regardless, many lose expensive gear from their roof racks if not squared away properly.

I'll recheck this with a local rack attack. Thoughts?
Can you post a pic of the underside mount, how it atatches to the roof rails.

The reason I ask is I am looking at mounting a long-range whip to the roof on a folding bracket which I need to design a mount for.
I would like to use the roof rails to mount the bracket to.
No holes in the bodywork.
4 more months until I get my GC.
 
#14 ·
Went to Rack Attack and talked through some options, they seem to be:

1) OEM cross bars: Great fit and finish, but locking mechanism is lacking as a security torx wrench is all that is needed to remove cross bars and anything attached from the vehicle.

2) Thule/Yak towers for WK2: Not available yet, but will be soon. Great fit, finish, and locking mechanisms both companies are known for. Weak spot IMO, is that WK2 roof tracks are somewhat flexy. See WK Stickey thread about a surfboard incident.

3) Rack Attack Roof Tracks: RA has their own house branded track system that can replace the OEM tracks mounted to the WK2 and can utilize existing Thule/Yak tower mounts. Noticeably stronger than OEM tracks, all black aluminum, lifetime warranty, aero/low profile. Pucker factor to remove stock tracks and remount RA tracks requiring filling and drilling holes into roof of brand new WK2. Cost can be reasonable or expensive depending upon vehicle labor. RA was mounting these up to a brand new X5 when I stopped by, and they looked perfect, sorry did not have a camera.

I had hoped a fourth option might be using some of the existing Thule/Yak clamping type tower mounts, but RA suggested not doing so as the WK2 tracks have dual tracks/hook areas.

I'll likely go with #2 or #3 above. Any CO WK2'rs want to buy my OEM cross bars for $20 less than I paid? Saves you $20 and I break even by avoiding return shipping.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Went to Rack Attack and talked through some options, they seem to be:

1) OEM cross bars: Great fit and finish, but locking mechanism is lacking as a security torx wrench is all that is needed to remove cross bars and anything attached from the vehicle.

2) Thule/Yak towers for WK2: Not available yet, but will be soon. Great fit, finish, and locking mechanisms both companies are known for.

3) Rack Attack Roof Tracks: RA has their own house branded track system that can replace the OEM tracks mounted to the WK2 and can utilize existing Thule/Yak tower mounts. Noticeably stronger than OEM tracks, all black aluminum, lifetime warranty, aero/low profile. Pucker factor to remove stock tracks and remount RA tracks requiring filling and drilling holes into roof of brand new WK2. Cost can be reasonable or expensive depending upon vehicle labor.

I had hoped a fourth option might be using some of the existing Thule/Yak clamping type tower mounts, but RA suggested not doing so as the WK2 tracks have dual tracks/hook areas.
Moose, 5 months later... any "new" news that you've heard for roof racks?
Did you go RA route or different route?

Moose, never mind... found your other thread & pics! Thanks!
 
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