Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

Starting to get a little frustrated with the Jeep...my tale of woe

14K views 92 replies 30 participants last post by  JRNYC 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, as I posted in another thread I just got the Jeep back from service at my independent mechanic (27,800 miles), one of the first times I've been able to take it to him since there weren't any outstanding niggling warranty items that needed to be done. I had a grinding noise at higher speeds when getting on the brakes. He gets the wheels off and finds that the rotors and pads are gummed up, the rotors and hubs are so corroded the rotors were fused onto the hubs. We both agreed the best course of action was to replace the pads and go ahead and replace the rotors as well since they were so bad (I saw them, they were VERY bad). 28k miles isn't great for brakes, but we're pretty hard on the brakes.

While he was at it he found that the steering rack was leaking, so I need to take it in to Jeep for that under warranty (I saw the TSB, but mine should be outside the affected range).

So, this afternoon...A/C stops working, and of course we are leaving for a 300 mile trip tomorrow morning. The A/C is working, the issue is the fan is only very slightly blowing, even on high. I took it over to Jeep at about 3:00 this afternoon, they are open until 7...hopefully they can do something so we're not stuck driving it with no A/C. Was planning to leave tomorrow at 10AM.

Can't take the Lexus because its both of us and the dog, and we're going to be going places we can't get to in the Lexus.

I've been a big defender of this vehicle on here, but I gotta admit I am getting frustrated. I was damn near trading it in on something else when that A/C quit this afternoon. I am just not accustomed to dealing with these constant issues, there is just ALWAYS something it seems like. I feel like I'm driving a 15 year old vehicle, not one that isn't even 2 yet!
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Got it back, needed a new climate control panel, luckily they happened to have one in stock...
 
#3 ·
Sorry to hear that. I really wish that Americna manufacturers understand that it is no use braggin' about where the vehicle can go if it can't take your there. Reliability, durability, and dependability are the three horsemen of vehicular manufacturing. Toyota had it and to a large extent still rides of their reputation deservedly or not. Lexus has it. Honda has it. Does not matter how much it can tow if it can't even fire up and start moving. US manufacturers need to hire some folks out of Lexus from the QC side and learn from them. Making things reliable and durable reduces warranty costs, enhances resale value, and retains more customers. Better profits and sales in the long run.
 
#4 · (Edited)
That was the conversation I had with my mechanic, my Jeep was the first WK2 he's worked on, his background is as a Lexus master tech and he specializes in asian cars but of course works on anything. He said he loved driving it, loved how it looks, loved the interior but that the issue was that Chrysler still doesn't understand that a quality vehicle comes from the inside out. Toyotas/Hondas, etc are so reliable because of the high quality of components, be they brake components or electrical components. Short of the brakes and the steering rack, every issue I have had has been a failure of some electrical control from the cruise control (X2), to the switches on the steering wheel, to the door locks, to the rear window release, to the HVAC issue. Its poor quality electrical components, plain and simple.

I'm starting to not be able to imagine owning this outside of the warranty...these things would be an incredible expense (just dropped $500 for brakes at 27k miles), and its EVERY time it goes in for service.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I'm starting to not be able to imagine owning this outside of the warranty...these things would be an incredible expense (just dropped $500 for brakes at 27k miles), and its EVERY time it goes in for service.
Honestly all cars are expensive to maintain IMO. I always say same thing every time I leave the Nissan dealer, can't get out of that darn place for less than $1000. I joke that anything they do is $500 minimum. After my extended warrantee was up at 100k my frontier cost me probably 5 or 6k in only a few years. I have a credit card that I only use for my Nissan bills.
 
#9 ·
Its posts like these that may very well keep me from buying another Jeep. Part of me says to run from a potential reliability/maintenance problem. Another part keeps telling me how much I enjoyed my previous two Jeeps. Yesterday, NHTSA came out with their most complaints list. Jeep is number two (complaints per 100K vehicles), right behind MINI. I really like MINI, but would never seriously consider buying one because of their horrid reliablity.

I know about warranties. But, having to get your car to the dealer and to put up with dealer service personnel, makes it such a huge hassle you'd almost pay someone to fix the problem if it was easier all the way around. The old saying "time is money" plays heavily when you have to spend hours getting a warranty repair taken care of.

Will just keep monitoring Jeep reliability until there seems to be a clear result.
 
#10 ·
As much as I love my 2014 Jeep GC Limited so far, I will definitely be trading it in before the warranty wears out.

Maybe I'll get another one if Chrysler works out all the major bugs, but between my own experiences with warranty repair, and the horror stories of others on this site, confidence is low when it comes to the reliability of the 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

:(
 
#12 ·
It sounds to me that the OP brake issue may be a case of neglect. Maintenance guide intervals are for normal driving habits. Take you vehicle off road, submerge in water 20" deep, hard braking and drive in salted snow requires additional maintenance.

Maybe the electrical corrosion is related to this as well.
 
#15 ·
In my yout I really wanted a TR3 but couldn't afford one. I could afford a Jag XK-140MC. Then I found out why. All of my cars have oil pressure gauges. Still have owner's manuals that tell you how to decarbonize the valves.

By 1970 we expected an average car to be ready for the recycling center by 100,000 miles. I used to get a number of "seasoned" 327s that way. Always looked for the double bump heads and learned to index spark plugs.

Today 200k is more the norm if the tin worm don't get you (one reason I live in Orlando). Personally believe that with proper (i.e. fanatical) maintenance there is no limit.

All of my toys other than the heep are pre-1991 & the fastest one is 43 years old. Just finished replacing a freeze plug in the 'vert. No Big
 
#18 ·
Maybe thats it! Haha

The water issue is especially strange because the carpeting is not wet around that area...but when you retract the seatbelt back into the C pillar and pull it out...it comes out wet. Wet enough to soak through the passenger's shirt.
 
#19 ·
I hate to sound like a broken record as well, but my love affair with this Jeep is slowly dying. Like alot of other people in this thread, I've owned many other vehicles, this Jeep being my first domestic auto. I've owned 3 BMW's, a Lexus, a Mazda, a Nissan, and my 12 Overland has had more problems in the first 18 months of ownership than my last 3 cars combined.

Nothing that has caused it to be towed, but just ongoing reliablity issues.

>replace heater fan
>replace right rear shock
>replace left rear shock
>reprogram climate control on auto start
>at dealer 4 separate times to diagnose/repair cold weather squeal on intial start up (replaced power steering pump, power steering pulley, alternator, all tensioners, serpentine belt)
>still unresolved interior squeak/rattle when hitting bumps

Not sure if I want to keep the JGC, just dont want to take such a hit on depreciation after 18 mos.
 
#20 · (Edited)
And the scary thing to me is some issues are common amongst all of us that have issues, and some are just totally random...

For instance, HVAC issues seem fairly common...yet everybody seems to have different components of the system fail. Mine was the control panel, jd's is the heater fan and the reprogramming. That makes me even more concerned about owning it out of warranty...
 
#25 ·
I wonder how many of the WK2 GC parts are made in China? I noticed that a lot of the "genuine" Mopar/Jeep accessories I've added to my 2014 GC had "Made in China" on the box.

:rolleyes:

Like I've said before, once the warranty is close to ending, my GC will be gone. I love it and all, but I have little faith in it's reliability over the long haul.

:(
 
#36 ·
Precisely the reason I leased this one and extended the warranty by three months to cover the entire lease. If this was an Acura, like my last car, I would have been much more likely to gamble. But there was just no way I was NOT going to be covered by warranty for any length of time in this vehicle. I knew *that* much going in. Of course, I didn't expect what eventually happened, but a few minor issues I expected and was prepared for.

And when the lease was up, if we liked the vehicle (and man, we ended up loving it from the minute we got it), we'd just turn it in and get a new one -- under warranty.

I don't like the idea of perpetual payments, but it just makes more sense these days with cars being rolling computers.
 
#26 ·
Fused hubs are common on the wk2. It happens when the hub is steel and the wheels are made of aluminum. I've seen many cases of heavy corrosion in that transition area. Most ppl have to kick the tires to get the wheel off. Apparently if you rub some sealing compound on there it'll prevent it.

I too will never buy another chrysler product. I figure i'd give american a try for the first time and i already regret it. I tried HARD to defend this car but it just chips away at you till you swear never again...

<700 miles blower fan making noise and water in the passenger footwell and water behind the dash. Turns out some idiot forgot to route the ac condenser hose OUT OF THE CAR. They dried the rear and replaced the blower motor.

Current: noisy water pump. Chirps constantly waiting for pump to come in on backorder.

Current: random leveling from the QL system on startup...no fix cuz everything tests "normal" it's not suppose to do this.

Current: Droning sound from engine around 55-65mph. Apparently it's normal?

Who knows what else will show up...i'm only at 10k miles.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Guess it depends on where you live. When living in Indiana, I used to see stuck wheels quite often particularly on hub-centric designs. The last 30 years in Florida, not at all (and the only steel weel I have is the heep's spare).

ps I use a thin layer of anti-seize

My last personal non-domestic was a 1968 FIAT 124 Spyder I sold at 170,000 miles to buy a 1978 V8 Sunbird. Have had three FIATs and liked them all (1200 Spyder had the only trans I could shift faster than a Muncie).

Nothing but domestics since and many kept way past the sell-by date. (the current herd represents almost 200 years of "experience"). After the XK Jags (7,000 rpm once) of my Yout, I have had very good luck with reliability desipe some really oddball failures (returning home with a 1990 GM 3800 that a dealer said had a bad oil pressure guage to find two cam beaings in the bottom of the pan. Good part was I found then in my garage and not 1,000 miles away).

Have had pretty good luck with dealers once I have them trained but rarely bother with them.

OTOH since I tend to keep cars bought new for a couple of decades, I did buy the lifetime warrenty from CJF since was about the same price as the sales tax on the heep & is transferrable in Florida. I prefer not to mess with a/c or transmissions.

Bottom line, I have had zero problems (other than not being able to read the dash with sunglasses on) with my '12 though I would like to lower it about 2". It does exactly what I want it to.
 
#28 ·
I have only had domestic cars - albeit that amounts to three, including my new Summit. My cars were all been bought new and I have had no significant problems and I kept them for over 100k miles, and I never did any preventive maintenance. My first was a Chevy Blazer and it had 150k miles before I got rid of it, it's main problem were electrical gremlins, went through a battery a year since I didn't want to take the time to find the source. The second was a Jeep Liberty, it had 110k miles before I gave it to a friend to make way for my new GC. It's main issue were frequent flats due to nails from all the construction in the area. For my new Grand, I plan on doing all the recommended maintenance for the first time.

I don't have anything against foreign cars and like a great many of them, it just seems that when it comes time to get a car, I end up with a domestic.
 
#29 ·
I've always been a stickler for maintenance. Except maybe tires, which I often fail to rotate. And sometimes my cars are dirtier than I'd like. But as far as I'm concerned oil is like blood; if you neglect that part you might as well not own a car.

I've developed an excel spreadsheet that I modify for each car based on the manufacturer's recommended maintenance intervals. I may modify it further to group maintence items together. In the case of the Jeep I've added in fluid changes to the transmission and differentials. I look forward to hitting an interval, and type in the mileage in the little blocks (for example 22,345 = 22.3) and someties I'll type the date on that line, on the far right. I can always add rows if I increase intervals.

The other things I've been doing is using silicone spray on critical electrical connections, or whenever I have to disconnect and connect. I also apply that to rubber and plastic fasteners like the engine cover to make it easy to remove. I use dielectric grease on high voltage connectors like coils and plugs, and anti-seize compound on wheel-to hub, and on lug nuts.

Every spring I get underneath any vehicle that has seen snow and clean underneath with a hose and cold water. I get a ton of sand and salt off that way.
 
#37 · (Edited)
I use dielectric grease on high voltage connectors like coils and plugs, and anti-seize compound on wheel-to hub, and on lug nuts.
All awesome tips except for that last one.

I have heard to NEVER put anti-seize on lug nuts. If you want to use anything, use milk of magnesia. It dries to a powder that makes the lug nuts easy to come off (tip I learned from the VW aircooled guys -- we used that on spark plugs threads). I put anti-seize on the wheel-to-hub, but the moment you put it on your lug nuts you alter the torque application dramatically, not to mention it makes it that much easier for the nuts to back off.

Not trying to sound harsh, but this is dangerous. Lug nuts should always be put on dry. If I get a rusty one, sometimes I'll spray a little WD40 inside and then blow it out to keep moisture away.

Cheers.

UPDATE: Well, it seems lots of folks on the 'net are using anti-seize for their lug nuts with no apparent drawbacks. Interesting. One thread I found had a great gauge for dry vs. wet torque specifications, which I think would be useful if you are going to use anything on your nuts (heh):
http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

And then an article on why it's bad (stretches the studs, possibly leading to metal fatigue):
http://brakeandfrontend.blogspot.com/2007/05/no-anti-seize-on-lug-nuts.html

While the chart might not be completely applicable to lug nuts, it does show that anything applied to the nut will result in more torque being applied that you might intend. However, if using anti-seize, I suppose I would be hesitant to apply *less* than the recommended torque, as I'd be afraid of the nut backing off.

And, one more... http://fleetowner.com/equipment/tiretracks/fleet_debunking_myth

Anyway, I'm off topic... I suppose if we want to discuss this, it should go in a new thread (if it hasn't been discussed already here).
 
#30 · (Edited)
Here's the bottom line, I love the Jeep and I just want Chrysler to make it as good a product as it can be, I think thats what we all want. I think looking around JeepGarage you can see that there are some significant issues with quality, reliability, etc, especially when it comes to small electrical components. Some people have no problems, some have tons, some have 2014s that die on their driveways. That wide disparity between issue free vehicles and heavily issued vehicles is an issue...consistent quality is what you want to see. There is obviously some significant variance between the quality of electrical and other components from build to build. I have 5 WK2s on my street, my one neighbor has had 3 WK2s, 2011 V6 Limited, 2012 Hemi Summit, and a 2014 V6 Overland. 2011 had no issues, the 2012 had some electrical issues like mine, bad switches, replaced nav HU, replaced adaptive cruise sensor...his 2014 is brand new and is fine except for broken seals in both headlamp assemblies.

When you go on a Toyota or Honda forum you of course find people who have issues, but you don't see the consistent issue threads that you do here. As someone who was a staunch defender I believe that there are certainly Wk2 owners who have no issues, and they aren't lying, but those of us who have had a lot of issues aren't lying either...and there is nothing "normal" or "owner caused" about our experiences.
 
#32 ·
As Kawasaki is the standard police issue cycle, it must assumed they are as reliable as possible. First responders cannot be sidelined by cycle reliability problems. Based on this, I can only assume you were the definition of exception to the rule. And, if you are basing your Japanese vs US built opinion on this one instance, it seems a little short-sighted to me.
 
#33 ·
Sorry to hear your woes SW. I'm sure you remember mine from right out the gate. I still debate whether I will buy a new vehicle again and still like some stuff about the GC but the Durango is also on my hit list and my sights are set on a RAM pick up as well on the new end. Currently I have a 2002 Chevy trailblazer. Bought it for 5000 with 106,000 miles and now have 120. No issues except a spark plug coil. 47$. Shamefully the suspension is riding loose like my jeep was. Ya can feel the clunky ness just the same. But it's a 5000$ vehicle with 120k, I can stomach that. Sadly I don't look as cool as I did in my jeep. I'm hoping also to get my uncles 2006 limited that he has has zero problems with. We will see what fate brings my way sooner or later. Hope it works out for you.:eek:
 
#35 ·
I feel for the guys who are having hard-to-diagnose electrical problems but I think the odds are very good most people won't have problems.

When we bought an '01 JGC the Edmunds forums had more Lemon Law references than anything else. We bought one anyway, it had only one small warrantee repair and was as trouble free as nearly any car I ever owned. Sold it it my son at 80,000 miles, he sold it at 140,000.

My ’05 WK had a leaking seal right away, otherwise fine. Sold at 20,000 due to awful mpg.

Replaced it with a Subaru, Consumer Reports #2 for quality. Most troublesome car I ever had. Ultimately blew a head gasket at 100,000, $2200 to fix in order to sell it.

Put my $ where my mouth is and ordered a 2014 Limited.

PS: most trouble free car I ever had is also the most complicated car I ever had, a 2006 Prius. ZERO repairs, just oil changes and tires (still original front brakes even) in 102,000 miles. My daughter has 60,000 on her 2010 Prius with zero repairs. OTOH my 2007 RAV4 at 96,000 miles has been only average.
 
#38 ·
Replaced it with a Subaru, Consumer Reports #2 for quality. Most troublesome car I ever had. Ultimately blew a head gasket at 100,000, $2200 to fix in order to sell it.
Ha. My stepson just got out of his Forester for the exact same issue (it's a common one with the Subaru boxers). We bought the car new in 2003 and did all the required and recommended maintenance. Lots of money. Gave him the car for his high school graduation in 2009. The car had two issues in our combined ownership for 10 years -- panoramic sunroof had a warping problem on the track, and the rear window regulator blew. Other than that it was totally flawless until 165K miles when the head gasket started leaking bad. He was looking at a $2000 fix, and then another 20K miles looking at another timing belt replacement, so it was time to trade it in for something else. He loved the car, but loves his Kia Optima just as much I think.

He'll probably miss the awesome AWD come winter though. :)
 
#39 ·
I've owned my 2012 Overland V8 for over a year and at this point, I'm not sure I'd ever buy another Jeep/Chrysler vehicle. :(

I've had several issue that required a trip to the dealership to fix.
- FCW and Blind Spot Detection Failure (x2)
- Rattling sound under front passenger seat
- Squealing Brakes
- NAV Radio Unresponsive
- Rear Flipper Glass mis-aligned

I've also noticed that my WK2 suffers from several other problems that have been mentioned on this forum (excessive rust/corrossion on brakes, wheels, & rotors; heat damaged DRLs) that will eventually lead to problems.

My previous vehicle (2005 Toyota 4Runner V8 4x4) had an issue with its CATs causing a bad smell from the exhaust. But other than that, there wasn't a single electrical or mechanical problem encountered in the 6 years I owned it! All that was needed was regular maintenance.

So my American made WK2 has had FAR more problems. While I like the features and ability of current vehicle has, the reliability has already been far below that of the Japanese built 4Runner.
 
#40 ·
I've owned my 2012 Overland V8 for over a year and at this point, I'm not sure I'd ever buy another Jeep/Chrysler vehicle. :(

I've had several issue that required a trip to the dealership to fix.
- FCW and Blind Spot Detection Failure (x2)
- Rattling sound under front passenger seat
- Squealing Brakes
- NAV Radio Unresponsive
- Rear Flipper Glass mis-aligned

I've also noticed that my WK2 suffers from several other problems that have been mentioned on this forum (excessive rust/corrossion on brakes, wheels, & rotors; heat damaged DRLs) that will eventually lead to problems.

My previous vehicle (2005 Toyota 4Runner V8 4x4) had an issue with its CATs causing a bad smell from the exhaust. But other than that, there wasn't a single electrical or mechanical problem encountered in the 6 years I owned it! All that was needed was regular maintenance.

So my American made WK2 has had FAR more problems. While I like the features and ability of current vehicle has, the reliability has already been far below that of the Japanese built 4Runner.
I'm not defending the problems, but I was at the Audi and Mercedes dealerships over the last couple of weekend and most of their brand new cars had rusting rotors, I was appalled, as I had never noticed this at non-Euro dealerships... I was told it was normal for those brands, so this may explain the Jeeps now having a rusting problem on that part, if they are being sourced from the same places...
 
#47 ·
What y'all are saying makes sense! I went to a used car lot last week and the car we test drove almost had a dead battery, which fits in with what y'all are saying about turnover. I have typically frequented domestic dealerships with a high turnover, so didn't think slow turnover would lead to the rusting. With that said, it does look awful, and would have made me not purchase one, if I hadn't heard y'all's comments. Too bad the dealerships I have visited in the area say its normal, instead of explaining it!
 
#48 ·
No extended warranty as of now, I'll decide as I get closer to the end of the factory warranty.

I'm very disappointed, I LOVE the Jeep. We just got back from a highway trip to the mountains of WV to visit family and I just really, really like this vehicle and I'd like to keep it, but I wouldn't be able to without a warranty at this rate of failure, and even with a warranty its a huge hassle.

We'll see what the next 6 months or so hold, thats about how long until I get to the end of the warranty. There really isn't any other vehicle I want out there...at this point I don't think my wife would let me try another Jeep. I like the vehicle enough I'd be willing to try another one...but she doesn't.[/QUOTE]


I understand I had problems with my 2010 GC and said f'it and traded it in on my12. I've been fortunate with the 12. I had MY10 in the shop at least once a month over a years time. When the service department messed up my dash and said "it was a characteristic of the vehicle" and told me to make a wood shimmy so the drivers side didn't sag and my A pillar didn't fly out in front of my inspection sticker I went to a different dealership and bought MY12. I love this Jeep and has so far been flawless except for the self load leveling shocks. My gist though is going from a 2010 to a 2012 the quality of the two aren't even comparable and it saddens me to see that you are having so many little things go wrong. What part of WV were you in? the state has many nice scenic drives and parks ect...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top