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To hot

17K views 79 replies 20 participants last post by  airjeep 
#1 ·
Was in traffic yesterday, mid-70s & windows open. Saw 215+ F at stoplight. Is too hot but factory does not turn fan on yet.

Anyone know of an aftermarket device that can turn fan on earlier, say 197F. Personally get bothered by temps over 200F.

ps at 215F the guage had not yet reached 1/2.
 
#59 · (Edited)
Good question.

I find myself sitting in an idling car, when it's either very hot or very cold out waaaay to often. Some thing to do with work. Don't ask.

I found myself playing with the EVIC on my 2012 Summit, and watching the oil, coolant, and tranny temps during this down time. Hence..... why I can tell you exactly how hot the coolant will get before the cooling system controls turn the fans on, and at what temps the fans will turn off again. I have noted the exact coolant temps at which this occurs. I have also manually turned the fans on to lower my coolant temps. by hitting the A/C button many times as I have described in this thread.
 
#71 ·
If you need a precise answer, the parts book and on line parts outlets are often a good source of information. There you find that the 2011 HD radiator has a different part number than a 2011 standard radiator.. for one. They are interchangeable, but one has a bit more size/weight/cooling capacity/$$$. Instead of whining here, just get off your butts and look up the parts you think may be different and determine if there is a HD cooling application part number... have fun, its actually pretty easy to do :)
 
#74 · (Edited)
I was just reading a new thread on engine oil and tranny temps today which made me think of this old thread.

Link to that new thread;

http://www.jeepgarage.org/f222/transmission-and-oil-temperatures-71455-2.html

Link to post #19 of that thread by Pete_K;

http://www.jeepgarage.org/f222/transmission-and-oil-temperatures-71455-2.html#post987750

Which I have cut and pasted below;

*********************************************************************************
For reference, the highest trans temp I've seen was in snow mode creeping in horrible traffic (during the embarrassing snowmageddon experience here in Atlanta--spent 9 hours to go 15 miles including rescuing stranded people). My trans temp creeped up to 217F. Traffic was barely moving in the ice and snow for several hours. Starting in second in snow mode likely had something to do with it. Engine oil temp hovered between 226F and 235F.

The transmission temp would creep up to that max then the engine fan would come on and it would VERY quickly drop to 205-206F, fan would cycle down and it would creep up again. So, I turned on the A/C (keeping the heat on high) which kept the fan on a low cycle all the time and the trans temp then rapidly fell to 188F and stayed there.

In everyday driving mine will reach 194-197F EVENTUALLY. In stop and go with constant accelerations being used it might hit this temp and hover there after 15-20 minutes of this. On a highway trip, starting from a trans temp of 80F or so, it will take anywhere from 45-60 miles before it finally reaches 195F or so, depending on whether I have any spirited accelerations along the way.

Note: neither the trans oil temp or engine oil temps seem to be super accurate throughout the full range. When the vehicle has totally cooled to ambient (overnight or longer) my engine oil and trans temps will tend to read notably higher than ambient before startup. For example, this morning it was 39F outside and my oil and trans temps read 64F. This may be the bottom of the scale as I'm not sure if I've seen them lower, or it might be these particular sensors (same ones as the coolant temp sensor) are more inaccurate outside their center scale (pretty common for these types of sensors actually).
*********************************************************************************


Note the unedited blue bold paragraph I have highlighted from Mr Pete_K's post. What does this mean & what does this have to do with the discussion from this old thread?....... That as I have correctly posted several times in this thread ~ manually turning on your A/C will immediately engage the engine cooling fan which in turn will immediately begin to lower your coolant temps, tranny fluid temp., and engine oil temp. Just as Pete_K observed in his WK2 & I observed in mine!

This is how the engineers at Chrysler designed a WK2's cooling system to work. Not just my WK2 but everyone's WK2, even those who have posted in this thread who either don't believe me, or the facts! :cool:
 
#80 ·
I wouldn't be too concerned about any engine temperature under 240º. As long it it doesn't boil over.

Leaving Death Valley last Feb. saw temps of 225-230 or so while pulling our travel trailer of 7000# plus. Max speed WFO of 43 mph, half throttle 40 mph or so. Oil temps close to 240. Normal temps when towing 210-220 coolant, oil 220 or so.

This winter coolant temps (non-towing) run around 190º vs 200 summer, oil 180 vs 190-200ºF. Cooling fans seem to cut in around 225-230ºF.

Oil temps are more of a concern to me being over 200ºF, as each 20º step over 200º cuts oil life in half, at least it did in the seventies.

A/C works by the heat gained or lost by phase change. Water going from liquid to vapor takes heat. That is why you sweat on a hot day or pour water over one's self to keep cool.

The compressor increases the pressure of the gas until it condenses (becomes a liquid) in the condenser. This allows the heat to be cooled by the air flowing over the fins. The liquid then flows into the evaporator via an orifice. At this point it becomes a gas again as the pressure drops below the vapor pressure of the liquid. Remember this is the suction side of the compressor. The air passes over the evaporator which is cooler than the air and heats the gas. Part of the reason for the compressor cycling on and off is due to high pressure in either the low (liquid) or suction (gas) lines. This can occur if the system is over charged with gas.
 
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