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Trailer Hitch Installation

13K views 32 replies 16 participants last post by  Buttermilk 
#1 ·
Hi everyone, I'm in the market for a used WK2, this forum has been very helpful. One of the GC's I'm currently considering is a 2011 that does not have the factory tow package. This is a must for me. Does anybody have any experience with adding a hitch aftermarket? Any guess on cost? Or would I be best advised to find a WK2 with this already installed from the factory?
 
#2 ·
I'm on the same boat as far wanting to get the trailer tow package. Can't seem to get any info from anywhere.
 
#3 ·
I went with the factory tow hitch for my '14 and it was pretty easy to install. The trailer wiring is already there; just need the plug that installs into the rear bumper fascia. Speaking of which, you have to cut a pretty nice size hole in the rear bumper fascia, so installation is not for the faint of heart. Total install time for me, though, took about 1.5 hours and I was moving slow to make sure I marked the bumper properly for the cut. After installation, you'll need to have the dealer do a flash to enable the trailer wiring and you're good to go.
 
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#4 · (Edited)
Thats exactly what i want the factory one. I would just prefer to have dealer instal and do flash then n there. I wonder how much time they would need.

On another note where did u buy package from? Did u get the cooling system too?
 
#5 ·
No, didn't get the cooling system because I don't plan to tow a trailer with it anytime soon. I wanted it to carry a bike rack. Honestly, for what I spent on the bike rack and the hitch, I could've gotten a good set of Thule crossbars and roof racks. Bike rack I got cost me around $800.

I'm a Jeep guy and do almost all of my own wrenching, at least on my Wrangler, so installing a hitch on the WK2 was no big deal. To me, it was well worth the cost savings to install it myself, as opposed to having the dealer do it. They probably charge 2-3 hours to install the hitch and then another hour to do the flash.

I bought the hitch and plug from the dealer, though, and I think I paid about $300-$350 after tax, etc.
 
#6 ·
No, didn't get the cooling system because I don't plan to tow a trailer with it anytime soon. I wanted it to carry a bike rack. Honestly, for what I spent on the bike rack and the hitch, I could've gotten a good set of Thule crossbars and roof racks. Bike rack I got cost me around $800.

I'm a Jeep guy and do almost all of my own wrenching, at least on my Wrangler, so installing a hitch on the WK2 was no big deal. To me, it was well worth the cost savings to install it myself, as opposed to having the dealer do it. They probably charge 2-3 hours to install the hitch and then another hour to do the flash.

I bought the hitch and plug from the dealer, though, and I think I paid about $300-$350 after tax, etc.
Oh ok. Im pretty handy myself but the cuting part scares me. Lol. Thanks for the input, ill start looking for the parts at my local dealer. That was a good price you paid. I think ive seen someone post they paid about 650-700 for the dealer install.
 
#7 ·
A dealer install including everything should be no more than $5-600. Simple method to accomplish this. All parts hitch and plug come to $240-260 depending on dealer. Bring in printouts the parts guys like to help. Then take the parts over to the body shop, don't even ask you're service guy. Service bay labor $100~ an hour. Body shop mechanical labor is usually $60~ an hour. This has worked on 5 WK2's at five dealers, not a scam or anything.. the body shop will be cutting the hole anyway. And who do you want removing and reinstalling body panels, techs or body guys?

This really isn't more than 3 hours labor at home, a pro will get it done in 2 but.... They'll want 4 hours. Fine..
$260 + 4hrs@$60 $240 = $500
The only thing you need now is the flash, which is a funny thing, my dealer is just amazing lately others are paying 1/2-1hr. It isn't 5 minutes like assumed but I think $40 is reasonable..
Overall 100% worth it more so if you do the install on your own, it's intimidating but easy, there's even cut lines on the inside of the lower valance from the factory. Everything else is bolts and grunts.
 
#8 ·
A dealer install including everything should be no more than $5-600. Simple method to accomplish this. All parts hitch and plug come to $240-260 depending on dealer. Bring in printouts the parts guys like to help. Then take the parts over to the body shop, don't even ask you're service guy. Service bay labor $100~ an hour. Body shop mechanical labor is usually $60~ an hour. This has worked on 5 WK2's at five dealers, not a scam or anything.. the body shop will be cutting the hole anyway. And who do you want removing and reinstalling body panels, techs or body guys?

This really isn't more than 3 hours labor at home, a pro will get it done in 2 but.... They'll want 4 hours. Fine..
$260 + 4hrs@$60 $240 = $500
The only thing you need now is the flash, which is a funny thing, my dealer is just amazing lately others are paying 1/2-1hr. It isn't 5 minutes like assumed but I think $40 is reasonable..
Overall 100% worth it more so if you do the install on your own, it's intimidating but easy, there's even cut lines on the inside of the lower valance from the factory. Everything else is bolts and grunts.
Oh really, i will need to get under tonight and check for those cut lines. I may just do it myself. I called a dealer and then never called me back.
 
#9 ·
It's important to remember that even if you add the OEM hitch and wiring, you do not (officially) get the same towing capacity that you do if everything is factory installed. In addition to the added cooling on some trim levels with the factory tow, there are also additional accommodations in the suspension to support towing needs. If you are just doing things like a utility trailer or a small fishing boat, no big deal. But if you will be hauling something bigger, go for the factory tow.
 
#10 ·
Great info, im mostly gonna be towing atv's and jetskies. Nothing more. Would an aftermaket be a best option?
 
#12 ·
I got the 2014 Altitude without the tow package and have been pricing this out. Dealer price on hitch was $253.40 includes the new cover for the bumper after cut out. Checked another dealer and after install was quoted just under $600 out the door with new pin connectors, not included on the hitch price above. Probably looking at $60 for that. Looks to be the same as most have been quoted.

Ended up getting a deal on the mount for $200. Figure to give it a go on my own.


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#13 · (Edited)
I think ill be towing under 3500 for sure. 2 quads+trailer im sure that doesnt equal to over 3500. I think going aftermarket would be the way to go. Im still having a hard time understanding even if i go oem i wont get the full capacity of 7400 lbs to tow... why is thay? Cause of the gears, engine/tranny cooler. Somr input would help.
 
#14 ·
Looking at Jeep's site the trailer tow IV group includes: 180 amp alternator, wire harness, receiver hitch, delete rear tow hook, full size spare, heavy duty engine cooling and rear load leveling suspension.

Don't know what amperage the base alternator is, looked at a few stickers and don't see it designated, so that may need to be upgraded depending. The main limiter looks to be the cooling and springs.


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#15 ·
Yup, my factory towing package didn't get the HD stuff, guess they figures a 5,000 lb rated V6 didn't need it. Just can say on a hot Florida day nothing heats up any more when towing than not and the hitch drops about an inch with a 460 lb tongue weght.

Have considered adding the HD radiator (bolts in) and Air Lifts for the back but why ? Also the 160A alternator is pleanty to even charge the trailer battery and run the fridge through the Bargman.
 
#16 ·
Is the stock/base alternator 160A or less?
 
#17 ·
I think it says on jeep.com its standard 180.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I plan on installing the Curt version. I only haul my bikes, cargo hauler and my snowblower in the winter. Plus its only $124 shipped on ebay. I also discovered the other day that i have the trailer harness behind by back bumper ready to go. I plan on having the dealer activate it for me so its ready to go when i need it (and yes i bought the adapter for a 4way/7way outlet). Its really not that bad looking at all and it doesnt take away from the flow of the rear bumper like the stock version does. All it needs is the "Jeep" black hitch cover to finish it off.

ebay:
Curt Class 3 Trailer Hitch 13065 for Jeep Grand Cherokee | eBay
 

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#19 ·
Yea i like the curt too.
 
#20 ·
If I may ask, what did you end up doing for a solution? I was in the same boat. I factory tow package was an option I was looking for , but it really narrowed my search. I was looking specifically for a 2011 70th anniversary edition in the Bronze Star Pearlcoat. When one popped up without tow package I started exploring.

In the end, I bought a Jeep GC that was CPO and they included the hitch and installation in the deal. I bought it a week and a half ago and it goes in this Friday for installation. Dealer said they need 4 hours, I am hoping it goes much quicker.

I'd post pics, but I am a new member and haven't completely figured the forum out, but know that I don't have photo posting privileges.
 
#25 ·
In case anyone still thought that cutting the bumper might be difficult the bumpers now have the markings of where to cut from the factory. The instructions will tell you which areas to cut (but of course they're wrong) so there's no need for you to measure yourself.

I posted a video about it here.
 
#26 ·
I just purchased a 2012 GC Limited and they wanted $600 for OEM and $275 for aftermarket (with lights outlet only). The OEM package looks better and has better receptacles for trailer wiring plugs. If you find a WK2 without the tow package thats right for you just buy it and get the tow package as an after market. OEM package will run about $250 - $300 with wiring harness (often sold separately). Easy to install but I understand it may require a visit to the local dealer to update computer software.
 
#27 ·
But again, without factory towing installation, the limits are lower. Factory tow is more than just the hitch and wiring.
 
#28 ·
Even if you were to go OEM the dealer does not add the load leveling suspension do they? What about 220 amp alt?
 
#29 ·
That's correct...no suspension mods; no extra cooling where it's part of the package for some configurations; no change in alternator, etc. Factory tow is always the best choice when it is available. For aftermarket, I consider the OEM hitch still desirable from an aesthetic perspective (and it's not down below the bumper where it can bang into something...like the ground). It's actually user installable for someone who is mildly handy, too. The Dealer still needs to code the vehicle so that the OEM electricals work, but that's a lot less expensive than having them install the hitch receiver and wiring, too.
 
#30 ·
For those wanting to know what kind of plug to get that will fit the factory wiring plug under the back bumper, I got a Hopkins #40975 and it plugged right in to the factory wiring plug on my 2015 GC. You can use either a flat 4 pin connector or a round 7 pin connector with it.
 
#32 ·
I bought a Pollak 7 and 4 connector which is a direct replacement of the OEM.

On another note, Went to dealer to activate sales code for trailer wiring and was quoted $125. A bit steep...
 
#33 ·
I checked at a couple of nearby dealers and one wanted $101 to activate the wiring and the other wanted $85. I think I'm going to wait and go back to where I bought it for my first free oil change and tell them they had agreed to activate it in the deal when I purchased it, and were supposed to have done it before it left the lot. Can't hurt to try.
 
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