Originally Posted by Andoskyy
Unless your tires are squealing or breaking loose during slow cornering, you're not coming close to the limitations of tire traction.
Sway bar links won't change a thing with the suspension. They merely take up the "slop" in the bushings.
You don't have any actual evidence that a stiffer sway bar will change any driving dynamics with air suspension....nor do I have any evidence that it's perfectly OK...as I've never installed them on a vehicle with air suspension...as I doubt you have either.
Sway bars/links make a very noticeable difference from 2-100+ mph. I've done them on 3 personal vehicles as well as friend's vehicles....you don't need to push any limits to enjoy their benefits.
You clearly have no understanding of how a suspension works. Allow me to go into a drawn out explanation of the parts in question.
First we'll start with the sway bars. They are intended to reduce body roll, by acting as a spring between the two sides of the car. When you turn, one side of the vehicle goes up, and the other goes down. This twists the anti roll bars (same thing as sway bars - just different names), and the amount they resist the twist is what their spring rate from side to side is.
The sway bar endlinks attach the sway bars to the axles (which are . Again, they serve to allow the spring rate from side to side to be maintained. They are NOT bushings, changing your bushings out to something stiffer (poly for example) is typically done at the same time as end links, but they have very different effects and purposes.
The bushings are placed at the junction between the body and the endlinks, and are typically going to have a little bit of a spring rate to them, especially rubber ones. People will switch them out to a poly bushing which has a much higher spring rate, which essentially means that your steering will feel more "direct" because there's not as much compression on them when you start to turn. Rubber bushings will have a little give and then will fully compress, softening your feel of turning (and in many cases, helping to keep poor drivers that overcorrect from hurting themselves).
So now that we know what these parts do, we can start to understand why having soft actual springs, with high spring rates on our sway bars can be a problem. First of all, when we stiffen that bar up, we now have less body roll and side to side weight transfer. In a light vehicle designed for sport, that's a good thing, it gives us more confidence in the turns. But for a large heavy vehicle, that stiffer bar will give us too much confidence, and will actually promote the lifting of the inside rear wheel. If you look at a lot of older GTIs, they had stiffer rear sway bars to induce oversteer into them, when you entered a corner fast and took it hard, the inside rear wheel would lift off the ground and this loss of grip would induce oversteer into the FWD vehicle. In a RWD vehicle, this is HUGELY unsafe, especially if you don't have a real limited slip differential.
Pairing this effect with soft springs will make this effect more prominent, and more dangerous. And keep in mind that since we've lowered the side to side weight transfer, we've also increased our risk of rollover, as now the inside side of the vehicle has more force acting on it trying to push it against where you want it to go, meaning more of that high center of gravity wants to go the other way even if it means going up and over and rolling a few times.
Bottom line, the Jeep is not a sports car. It is a tall, heavy, high center of gravity machine that took a massive amount of engineering for the SRT guys to make perform and drive sporty. There's a reason the SRT is like $20k more, and it's not because their slightly larger Hemi costs that much more, or their body kit costs that much more, etc. There's a lot of guys that are very well educated in engineering and physics that work very hard to make the SRT do things it shouldn't be able to do. Adding a few parts here and there is NOT going to give you the same effect, and will instead likely make your vehicle less safe.
EDIT: And tires squealing is a sign that you're losing traction. As speeds go up, the lateral forces go up, and it's harder for the tires to keep hold. Just because your tires don't make noises at low speeds does not mean they can hold traction at higher speeds. In a lot of non performance tires, there is no linear breakaway point either, when they start squealing, you've lost traction or are about to completely lose it. Performance tires tend to try to give you a linear amount of traction so that when you hear the squealing, you've got a little more room.