Originally Posted by ccfoodog
Nice job. Can you provide a link to the product used?
The only gripe people seem to have is the lead wires are very thin (22 gauge). Indeed they are, but I was able to work with them, despite having heavier gauge wire for the rest of the system. The leads are 10-12' in length. They have a rubber jacket around them, but i found I had to slide it up the wires to make it flush with the LED casing. Even the product photos show them too far out. Leaving them that way would be begging for broken connections.
Apparently, when left on for long periods, they do get rather warm to the touch (likely from the voltage reduction circuitry). After having them running for at least 25-30 minutes while I took pictures and wiggled all the wires to double check for loose connections, they didn't appear to get particularly warm. As a result, I doubt they'll get too warm under normal operation. As running lights, like they're sold for, being around plastic lenses or body parts might become an issue, but I don't see them hurting anything under the hood, even if they really got hot.
They are referred to as "Xenon White" in the description, but they clearly have a blue hue to them. You can see the difference in the photo above showing the hood light test in the lit garage. The fluorescent shop light in the background has daylight balanced bulbs in it, which are cooler than normal indoor colored bulbs. The LED strip is clearly giving off an even bluer tint. I have no problem with it, though. Nothing under the hood appears too smurfy to see what it should be colored.
In the end, due to the wire gauge, I found it easier to simply solder the connections together rather than use crimp connectors that simply didn't fit well. I sealed up the connections with heat shrink tubing, then wrapped those covered connections in electrical tape to keep them from snagging on anything and to make them totally water tight. For the upper light, I used heat shrink tubing where the wires entered and left the inside of the hood supports to prevent chaffing. In the lower portion, the whole works ended up in the braided loom from the light to the rest of the connections to protect everything from heat damage.
The leads are red/black, so I bought the same color wire pair (in 18 gauge) to make it easier to get everything connected properly in a (then) very dark engine bay. Since everything would be covered in heat shrink tubing or wire looms, I wasn't worried about seeing the colors once everything was properly run. I had tried another style of lighting previously that used a black/white-black wire pair, but those lights proved to be troublesome and unreliable due to poor connections from the leads to the LEDs themselves. They had very poor workmanship and weren't as bright, so I dumped those for the lights I ended up using.
The lights come with adhesive foam tape to stick them on, but I actually cut a small amount of the tape from each end and used high temperature marine silicone adhesive in those spots to give them more sticking power. Then I ran a thin bead of the silicone around the entire edge of each light (sealing the connections at the same time) to hopefully ensure they won't peel off over time due to heat, humidity and/or vibration.
The lower strip would likely just fall into the plastic fascia and do no harm, but I worried the upper one could end up dangling into the fan, despite all the slack being secured.