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  #25  
Old 12-02-2009, 11:38 PM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

^^^^^^^^great post here matt!!!
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  #26  
Old 12-06-2009, 10:47 PM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

very nice write up bro!

* But you also MUST consider upgrading the Big 3 .... And never use wire Less than 4 AWG for the Upgrade.

The OFFICIAL "Big 3" Upgrade :

Upgrading the "Big 3" wires in the engine compartment can lower the overall resistance of your entire electrical system. The effects of the lower resistance are typically:

1) Reduced dimming and smaller voltage drops
2) More stable voltage and better current flow
3) Less strain on your vehicle's charging system

If you have heavy dimming or are getting large voltage drops during loud bass hits, but you don't have the money to spend on a high output alternator or a battery, upgrading your vehicle's "Big 3" will usually help to reduce and sometimes even eliminate the problems. The "Big 3" wires are:

1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine


Now that you understand exactly what the "Big 3" do, it's time to upgrade them to a larger gauge wire. You can use regular power wire from installing your car audio equipment, ring terminals, and crimping equipment just the same as you would for any other install. Let's start with the first of the "Big 3," the battery negative to chassis wire:

1) Disconnect your battery's negative terminal and get the stock wiring out of the way. You might have to cut it and crimp a new ring terminal onto it. I found it helpful to use aftermarket battery terminals with multiple ports on them also.

2) Scrape away the paint and drill the hole for your connection of the larger wire, or connect it to the stock grounding point. Either way you do it, make sure it is bare chassis metal, not covered by paint, and that the connection is as tight and secure as possible:

3) Secure the new wire to the chassis and reconnect the vehicle's stock chassis ground, but DON'T reconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal yet! You may find it helpful to cover the negative battery terminal with a cloth or other non-conductive material and just lay the terminal on it until you're ready to reconnect it later.

Moving on to the next of the "Big 3," let's upgrade the alternator to battery positive wire:

4) Locate the vehicle's alternator and look for a terminal post connected to it. It should have only one wire connected to it, and it should lead to the positive terminal on the battery, possibly through the fuse box.

5) Disconnect the stock alternator to battery positive wire from the positive post and connect it to the post again with the new wire added.

6) Run the wire either through your fuse box if applicable or through a fuse. The fuse should be sized to match the max ampacity of your wire, not the output capability of your alternator.

7) From the fuse, connect the wire to the positive terminal on your battery, again, leaving the stock wiring connected when you're done.

Last, let's move to the chassis to engine wire: (Again, because your alternator is grounded to the block, all you need to do is find a bolt somewhere on the block and connect it to the chassis. The alternator's mounting bracket is usually a good place to find these bolts).

8) Again, either drill a new hole or connect this wire to the stock chassis ground. From the chassis ground, run the wire back to one of the mounting posts for the alternator (or to a bolt on the engine block).

9) That's it! You're done. Reconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal and check out the difference!


Helpful hints:

1) Leave the stock wiring attached after you're done. Don't replace the stock wiring, add onto it. Current will take the path of least resistance anyway, so replacing the stock wire will only make more work for yourself.

2) When fusing your alternator to battery positive wire, fuse it toward the battery end of the wire. As IMTfox points out later in this thread, the battery will explode if it's overloaded, while the alternator will only burn out its regulator which won't cause much damage except to the alternator itself. Exploding batteries are no fun!

3) When crimping large gauge terminals for 1/0awg and sometimes even 4awg, a vice works well. Crimp one side of the terminal at a time, creating an overlapping edge. Put the boot around this and then wrap it in electrical tape if you want. the most secure connections will occur in this way.


4) Lastly, prepare all your materials and tools BEFORE you are ready to upgrade. Know what you are doing before you start so you can be done as quick as possible. The majority of vehicles have computers that will reset after the battery is disconnected for a long time and they can cause older vehicles to do strange things if they reset.
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  #27  
Old 12-07-2009, 01:01 PM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

Yup!

If you are experiencing any dimming, this is a must!

It's a good thing to do anyways (if you have any aftermarket power).
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  #28  
Old 12-07-2009, 02:17 PM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

awesome info hamze!!!
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  #29  
Old 12-09-2009, 07:32 PM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

Thank You Guys!

'just did the BiG 3 to my C5... the voltage used to drop to 12.9V at heavy bass hits, I used 1 AwG wire, now it barely drops to 13.9v!! This thing works!

i have a 800 Rms amplifier that is 60% efficient . so, the amplifier sips (800 Rms / 0.6 ) = 1333 RMS to give you its 800 RMS potential at 14.4 volts....

divide 1333 / 13.9v = so the amplifier is sipping 95 amperes from the Batt and/0r alternator

( watts = volts x amperes )
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  #30  
Old 12-09-2009, 08:29 PM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

thanks for the physics lesson bro
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:51 PM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt View Post
How to add a sub/amp to the factory stereo
Solution 3

The most expensive, but easiest solution is to purchase a wiring adapter that will produce a pair of low-level, RCA pigtails located behind the factory radio. These typically run somewhere between $100-$120, but can make installation a lot easier. Use a site like www.crutchfield.com to figure out which adapter will fit your vehicle/radio.

What exactly is this wire called?
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:07 PM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexM52 View Post
What exactly is this wire called?
It's universally called a 'wiring harness.'

The actual model number will depend on your vehicle and radio.
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:58 PM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

Sorry sort of a newbie here..but is this it?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120SVI6...+adapter&ssi=0

Your help is appreciated!

I have the stock factory radio without out boston acoustics upgrade.
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Old 04-03-2010, 07:04 AM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

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Originally Posted by AlexM52 View Post
Sorry sort of a newbie here..but is this it?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120SVI6...+adapter&ssi=0

Your help is appreciated!

I have the stock factory radio without out boston acoustics upgrade.
ehh, I have no idea.

I've never used the harness. Hopefully someone else can chime in and help ya.
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  #35  
Old 04-03-2010, 08:06 AM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

That looks like it. I've never used one on Jeeps before but that seems like what you want from past experience. Honestly, call crutchfield. they are pretty knowledgeable.
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  #36  
Old 04-03-2010, 11:14 AM
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Re: How-To: Add a Sub/Amp to your Factory Stereo

Yeah that's what I'll probably end up doing. Anyways thanks for the help!
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