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HOW TO: Paint chrome trim

27K views 39 replies 28 participants last post by  farfromovin 
#1 ·
This subject has been brought up multiple times and I didn't see a thread about it in here yet, so I thought I'd describe the process.

Supplies:
Wax and grease remover
self etching primer
sandable primer
base coat
clear coat
various grits of sand paper
3M body cladding tape



Remove cladding:
Easy enough with the correct tools. Just be weary of the locating clips (the ones with just a hole instead of a slot) as they are hard to remove without breaking the trim. Its easiest to unclip the rest and just slide the trim off of these last clips. They are the middle ones on the front doors and the front ones on the rear doors. If you do break a clip mounting spot on the trim its an easy fix as I will describe later.

Pop out all clips but the locating ones:



Slide the trim off of the locating clips:

Middle one on the front



Front one on the back



Remove locating clips from door (much easier this way!):



Now is a good time to fix a broken clip mount and apply the new 3M tape at the rear of the front trim.



To fix a broken clip mount, us a soldering iron and a tip you wont miss. Melt the plastic back together.



Next, clean with wax and grease remover. I cannot stress this enough. If there is any residual wax on the trim, the paint will not stick. You must remove all wax BEFORE you sand, as sanding will just embed it into the metal.

Sand the metal (200 or 320 should do) until the surface is no longer a mirror:



Clean with wax and grease remover again (once again clean as much as you can. I even used a toothbrush in the lettering)

Next, prime with self etching primer. Once that dries, prime with sandable primer.



Use some 400 or 600 grit sand paper to clean up any blemishes.

Next its on to the base coat. I got mine at a Sherman Williams auto paint store. I used the Sherman Williams paint code available here on WKJeeps and had them mix me up 2 rattle cans (cost was just under $100).

I did 3 coats. I then fogged over the last coat to give a consistent metallic appearance.



Lastly I applied 3 coats of clear. I used a more expensive clear as I plan on color sanding and buffing later.

I also removed the rear bumper to access the rear chrome strip. I wont elaborate on the process as its quite simple and self explanitory after the bumer is off. Instructions for removing the rear bumper are available here. As far as the rear sonar sensors go... I sanded very lightly, applied a very thing coat of self etching primer, followed by 2 coats of color and 1 of clear. Hopefully the rear sensors will still work once reassembled. I'll have to report back on that one.

 
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#2 · (Edited)
Reinstalled:



A little detail work:



Finished!



Now on to the rear hatch handle (red), door handles (black), and roof rails (black).
 
#4 ·
great writeup! i just painted my chrome tailgate trim using the same process! +rep
 
#9 ·
Agreed. Thanks for the inspiration!

100 bucks for 2 spray paint cans???

other than that, the chit is nicely done!!!

your sensors will still work with paint.....mine do
Yep, sensors work just fine. Almost wish I'd put more clear on them now.

The paint was Sherman Williams premium stuff. They had to mix up a pint to make the 2 cans. I'd much rather spend more to get real 2 stage paint from a reputable/knowledgeable store than to order online. Personal preference really.
 
#8 ·
100 bucks for 2 spray paint cans???

other than that, the chit is nicely done!!!

your sensors will still work with paint.....mine do

(I have to redo 2 of mine come spring time because the paint chipped for some reason!!)
 
#12 ·
Nope... Unfortunately you must remove the entire bumper, then remove the core, then the reverse sensors, and finally you can remove the trim.
 
#17 ·
Awesome write! I have black textured pieces but I plan on doing all of them this summer.
 
#19 ·
Looks sweet. Shoulda done black with red letters but looks good either way. To each their own.
 
#20 ·
WOW... Great work. Looks awesome!!


And what a wonderful write up. Nice work.
 
#22 ·
Just ordered a new SRT-8 grill and am about to paint the door handles. It turns out that the Jeep dealer is unable to get the rear door handles in PRH. So I'm going to just paint the chrome part of the door handles satin black to match the trim and the roof rack.

Speaking of PRH (inferno red crystal pearl), I was under the impression that PRH and PRJ were the same color. It turns out that PRJ is just "inferno red" and PRH is "inferno red crystal pearl". The confusion arose because they are listed as the same part numbers as far as touch up paint goes. This is because they are very similar. Unfortunately I painted my trim and bumper PRJ when the rest of my vehicle is PRH... The difference is noticeable. So it looks like I'll be painting everything over again :(



 
#24 ·
Nope. My only issue is the clear I used on the trim pieces did not harden for almost 2 weeks which allowed rain water to etch the surface. I highly suggest using 2K Clear as it is a 2 part paint. There is a capsule of hardener inside the can that you "pop" to rupture it then mix it all together. The paint is great and will harden just like normal auto paint in a day or so. I used it for the bumper and it worked great. I guess it does not matter though as my basecoat is the wrong color and an entire repaint of the trim and bumper is coming soon.
 
#26 ·
My only additional suggestion would be to use an adhesion promoter before primer. You can get a rattle can of it at any auto store. It just helps paint stick to plastic.

Good luck! Post some pictures when you are done
 
#33 ·
Same. You should always 'scuff up' the surface prior to painting. Chrome just requires more scuffing to get rid of the mirrored surface to promote better adhesion. I just followed this guide this weekend to paint mine black metallic to body match. Although I used a dremel bit and carved out all the letters for something special :D
 
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