The Sway Bar Info/How To post
Figured I'd combine all the info you should need for front and read sway bar info/questions. However, I won't get into the srt vs. addco debate. If you'd like more info on that see the srt8 forums or go to JU and talk to Kolak(He actually helped Addco develop the front sway bar for the WKs and has a ton of ACTUAL test results/knowledge). So info first:
Front Sway Bar:
5.7s came with the 30mm version, SRTs came with the 33mm version which is a direct swap for the non-srt guys. The Addco is reportedly the exact same thickness but has different bends, and most users report a stiffer cornering. Alas I haven't seen/tested it so I didn't bother getting the info for it.
33mm bar - 52089466AE ($110ish)
Bracket - 52090474AB ($6) You'll need 2
Bushing - 52089465AF ($7) You'll need 2
Rear Sway Bar:
5.7s came with the 16mm version, SRTs came with the 20mm and Addco's clocks in at 22.23mm(via my dial calipers). Both the SRT and the Addco are a direct swap and only require the matching brackets/bushings. On the bracket note both Energy and Addco brackets come with zerk fittings and depending on your environment being able to easily grease your bushings may be a benefit over stock mopar brackets. I generally only have to grease my bushings once a year tops. You DO NOT need the fancy triangle mount plate and most will agree it doesn't do anything noticeable anyways. Regarding thicker links bwoody offers a set, but I have not tested or bought these so I'll leave that to other threads to discuss.
SRT Bar - 52124303AA ($90)
Bracket* - 52090271AB ($4) You'll need 2 <see asterisk below>
Bushing - 52124302AA ($6) You'll need 2
Addco - #2321 ($160) This is a kit and comes with bar/brackets/bushing ie everything you'll need to do the swap
*Per Mopar all WKs built after August 2005 came with the above brackets regardless of bar size, meaning you'd only need to swap the bushings. Mine was built a few months prior and had the smaller brackets so I had to purchase the new updated versions.
Now another interesting bit of info is that for 2 years Mopar made a Sway bar KIT(Front & Rear) for the 5.7 Commanders. While the front is different the rear bar will fit the WKs and clocks in at 22mm(Same as the addco). The Kit P/N was P5153727. These were powder coated blue incase you happen to go junk yard hunting and hit the lotto.
Tools - 8mm box(ratcheting preferred), 18mm Box(again ratchet), and a 15mm socket. Depending on your use of force/angles you may or may not also need a 3" extension. I highly advise you remove both wheels and use jack stands on the BODY so that the axle can fully droop.
Both end links use the 8mm and 18mm box wrenches, you'll soon see why I strongly recommend ratcheting. The brackets use the 15 socket and make sure you see the end about getting the bolts back in correctly as the top driver's side bolt is VERY easy to cross thread. You don't need to completely remove the links, just unbolt from the bar and swivel them down or out of the way. Once you've removed the fasteners goto the passenger side and grab the bar so that its lined up as if bolted. Now rotate the bar clockwise so that the end is pointing to 3 o'clock. Now pull it towards you and under the gas tank. Once the end clears the tank rotate it counter clockwise to 11 o'clock, pull a little more then rotate it past the caliper and remove. Reverse the process to slide the new one in.
Tip: Grease and install the bushings prior to putting the new bar in. I actually ended up installing the brackets onto the bushings as well, that was I could immediately get a bolt semi in to hold the bar in place.
Now to the bolts, both passenger side bolts and the lower driver side bolts are fairly easy to put in. The upper driver side bolt is a hum dinger and very very easy to cross thread if it is not perfectly level to the hole. I ended up putting both passenger side bolts in 3/4 of the way then went to the driver side and put the top bolt in, followed by the bottom bolt. Then tightened everything up. Again take your time and make sure you get that top bolt in straight, if it doesn't hand tighten atleast 4 turns then its not in straight.
Ok so there you go, now you're armed and dangerous.
P.S. Since you'll no doubt forget to read this prior to installing, the brake lines go between the bar and the axle....yea I never bothered to look and had to go look at my neighbors to confirm.
XJs: 12(All 4.0 4x4s)
CJs: 2(305 & FI 4.0 swaps)
TJs: 1(Rubi - currently in garage)
WKs:1(05 Hemi - currently in driveway)
Point of the story is once you start you can never quit owning the damn things...