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  #13  
Old 10-04-2015, 03:48 PM
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Re: Need help with Front Rotor size

I'm actually against slotted or drilled rotors except when applied to extreme performance situations such as throwing your vehicle around a track. If the pads get hot enough, they'll emit gasses that could cause stammering, vibrations, soft pedal under seriously high speed stopping and cornering constantly.
For everyday driving though, why would anyone need drilled rotors? It seems logical that the drilled or slotted rotors offer LESS friction against the pads for lower stopping power as there is less pad to metal contact at any given time during braking..
And I can't see anyone in a Jeep, unless it's an SRT, cranking around a race track to get the brakes hot enough to fade or warrant drilled rotors to prevent out-gassing interference.

Thoughts?

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  #14  
Old 10-04-2015, 04:26 PM
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Re: Need help with Front Rotor size

Have you ever gone down big hills in bad weather or off road/ dirt or gravel trails. The drill holes and slots are not significant lose of frustiin but they cool your rotors and allow for better gas escape as you pads heat up. The also don't fade anywhere near as much it or warp when the regular rotors heat up then get splashed with iced salted slush. If regular rotors were the best then the manufacturers wouldn't have switched to vented rotors so many years ago. Keeping you brakes from getting too hot where metal and brake materials are vaporizing, rather than normal wear of the pad and rotor.

That's my experience. Solid rotors when disc brakes first came out warped all the time, which is why they had to turn them in the first place. Back before labor costs were so high that simple replacement was more economical. It almost like saying that drums had more surface area so they should stop better but it doesn't work based on that surface area alone. Heat is your biggest wear and fade issues with brakes. Even the V6 WK2 weighs in around 4000 lbs with the fluids and a driver.

I want the best. Motorcycles have proven slotted and drilled are the most effective. They have such thin rotors that venting is impossible but they can stop in a dime if you know how to work them correctly.
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Old 10-04-2015, 04:51 PM
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Re: Need help with Front Rotor size

Nah. Logic wins here. Like I said, unless you are using your vehicle in severe performance oriented conditions, E.G. racing on a track where you drop from high speeds very rapidly over and over and over and over again, and expect to replace your brake components more often due to easier warping, cracking due to weakening from cross-drilling etc., there isn't any reason to use drilled rotors.
Race drivers used drilled rotors to reduce rotating mass as well. Any little bit of weight reduction in a race car counts in the end.
I've also heard that the brake pad materials in use today, like ceramics and semi-metallics really don't produce any gasses. That honor belonged to the older style organics and asbestos based brakes which of course are no longer used.
Drilled rotors are weaker, allow less surface to pad contact area for inferior friction for braking. For conventional use, solid rotors are the safer, more logical choice.
I don't understand how anyone would intentionally reduce braking performance by changing out their solid rotors to slotted or drilled.
Cars like the corvette, Camaro, Mustangs, SRT Vehicles have MONSTROUS calipers with tremendous crushing force and this allows the use of drilled rotors for better high temp management while extended racing use.

Don't fall for the hype folks. Unless you're a race car driver, don't bother with slotted or drilled rotors. Unless you're doing it strictly for the look, then I'd say go for it. You brake worse, but look cool.

A little sensible read for those interested.
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...dissolved.html

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...neer-test.html

http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q...ted-or-drilled

P.S. Did I mention that I hate seeing people fall for hyped up BS? I want all of them to be smart. I want all of them to use their gray matter. And I want all, most of all, to be safe.
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:33 PM
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Re: Need help with Front Rotor size

Cameron's, and mustangs are lightweight RWD pony cars. They are much easier to stop. On tracks you break into a curve then accelerate out. Not a ton of braking is necessary. Both of those cars corner horribly. I can't even believe you would put a link towards beefed up civics though the do actually move very quick and nimble when modified but not the same style if car. SRT. I just don't get it at all. If you want a street fast drag machine buy a Challenger Hellcat.

Brembo brakes are monster sized, in that we can agree. All pads emit gas as when it cools it turns to a fine powder. That's not even in question. Did you think they just got thinner because they were stretched? That pad goes somewhere. If you live in a warm weather state and don't have hill country by all means stick with factory vented rotors. There are so much less expensive and shouldn't warp with normal use. I live in a snowbell with loads of rock salt applied to every street. The hills in the Finger Lakes demand the chest braking available. It's a personal choice. I've had heavy duty oxygen vans that would eat brakes almost every other month because of heavy loads. We had no options other than heavy duty factory brakes. The costs add up.

I don't have to worry about company vehicle any longer but I would never go cheap on brakes or tires. They are you vehicles's first line emergency features and just like suspension parts I try to get the best available. It kills me that people want super chargers and cool air intakes but skimp on brakes and tires. That just doesn't make any sense, but again it's a personal choice. I want the best option and it is where I choose to pay the extra dollars because if I can avoid a collision even once I've paid for these modifications in spades.
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:44 PM
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Re: Need help with Front Rotor size

Quote:
Originally Posted by champagneinhand View Post
Cameron's, and mustangs are lightweight RWD pony cars. They are much easier to stop. On tracks you break into a curve then accelerate out. Not a ton of braking is necessary. Both of those cars corner horribly. I can't even believe you would put a link towards beefed up civics though the do actually move very quick and nimble when modified but not the same style if car. SRT. I just don't get it at all. If you want a street fast drag machine buy a Challenger Hellcat.

Brembo brakes are monster sized, in that we can agree. All pads emit gas as when it cools it turns to a fine powder. That's not even in question. Did you think they just got thinner because they were stretched? That pad goes somewhere. If you live in a warm weather state and don't have hill country by all means stick with factory vented rotors. There are so much less expensive and shouldn't warp with normal use. I live in a snowbell with loads of rock salt applied to every street. The hills in the Finger Lakes demand the chest braking available. It's a personal choice. I've had heavy duty oxygen vans that would eat brakes almost every other month because of heavy loads. We had no options other than heavy duty factory brakes. The costs add up.

I don't have to worry about company vehicle any longer but I would never go cheap on brakes or tires. They are you vehicles's first line emergency features and just like suspension parts I try to get the best available. It kills me that people want super chargers and cool air intakes but skimp on brakes and tires. That just doesn't make any sense, but again it's a personal choice. I want the best option and it is where I choose to pay the extra dollars because if I can avoid a collision even once I've paid for these modifications in spades.
Actually, going drilled is skimping.
Ok, I concede that no amount of logical reasoning is going to clear things up for you or change your mind. You are what you are and like what you like. Can't fault a man for knowing what he wants.

So you think that brake pads, turn to gas, then turn to dust. Ewww Key...
And you think that I thought that they, "stretched" ???
In what way shape or form.... Know what? N/M.

Please enjoy your drilled rotors. Stay safe bro. Inspect them often.
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  #18  
Old 10-04-2015, 11:52 PM
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Re: Need help with Front Rotor size

Brake pads to turn into a gaseous state of dust or powder. I didn't communicate well on what I thought might account for the lost pad materiel over time. I was just trying to relate how metal can stretch when pressure is applied and its in wire form. That was my bad. Please accept apologies on that as I didn't communicate that properly and it's not a good reference in this situation. But I'm wondering where do you think the lost amount of pad material goes, no matter if it's asbestos, semi-metallic or ceramic pad? It goes somewhere and it's not in so,I'd form. It just can't disappear. I was just trying to make the point that an even cool braking system is optimal. If you are fine with the factory rotors than we can agree to disagree on that. I'm sure we live and drive in very different conditions.
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