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  #13  
Old 04-17-2011, 10:26 PM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

Perhaps you overheated and warped that rotor so bad it is out of spec and rubbing against the pads when you aren't applying the brake... but this is only if you didn't change the rotor with the caliper (you can change just pads, on both sides, pads and rotors on both sides, or caliper, pads and rotors on both sides, if you stick with the teves caliper on the front get a new set of front pads for both sides again and replace both front rotors).
Otherwise are the calipers you're buying pre "loaded" with the pads or are you installing the clips and squealers and then pads yourself? The clips can be confusing; have you checked that you aren't over the high mark on the fluid reservoir? Too much fluid is bad just like not enough is. Post a picture if you can.
Wait... you only changed one side, that side now has thicker (unused) pads on it and these WILL drag along the rotor on that side until they are at the same wear point as the other pad on the other side (and they will probably destroy the rotor, caliper and other assorted parts it the area in the process).
You should always change both front or rear brake pads at the same time to avoid this. While you changed calipers, they have pads in them so you should follow the procedures for that too.
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:36 PM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

Oh and while you're in the area inspect your axle boots, the rubber bit covering the axle shaft between the end of its tube and the actual hub, they like to rip or otherwise detach and let the grease out and outside elements in. It's usually best to catch this before the bearings go.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:05 AM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

I've got Akebono fronts on mine, so I'm not sure what the Teves look like...but I had an issue with my pads not releasing completely on one side as well. The lower pins on both calipers were completely frozen. Apparently this is common...so after lots of heat, twisting, pulling, cursing, and pounding, I finally got them out. I know you said yours were fine, but while you're messing around in there, I'd double check to make sure they actually pull out and move freely.
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  #16  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:48 PM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

you have teves on your rear wheels...
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Old 04-18-2011, 01:49 PM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

One of the maintenance service items is to remove the caliper sliding pins and clean/lubricate them every 12000 Miles/19000 Km. Many people forget about this, and then the result is that they get dry and sometimes rusted and the caliper can't move freely anymore. The result is a dragging brake.
Normally when on one side the pads are at its wear limts, the other side is not too far away as well (if it would show a big difference, then there is something wrong with one of the calipers). Also to keep the same friction of the pads on both sides, its common practice to change both sides at the same time. Changing the pads on one side will not make them wear quicker. If they are dragging, then its not a problem with the pads, but with the caliper. When releasing the brake, the pistons (on one side of the caliper only)return a bit and the caliper will slide over the caliper sliding pins, and will release the other side pads. So with dry sliding pins, the caliper can't move and dragging on that side of the caliper will occur.
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  #18  
Old 04-19-2011, 04:54 AM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

I've just replaced my front calipers. I spoke to a couple of mechanics and they both said that they weren't fans of twin piston calipers, they seem to be prone to failing. They were of the opinion that single piston was far better.

Oh and just as a footnote, if you ever need to replace the flexi hose, the new one you'll get won't fit exactly. I spent an hour pissing about trying to get it to fit properly.
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  #19  
Old 04-25-2011, 11:39 AM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

Hi Guys
I am back, been away on business. So the the pads and disks were changed for brand new just as I bought the WJ. After a couple of weeks I have the issue with the caliper sticking, I change the caliper and put the nearly new pads back in. After 30-40 minutes of driving the steering wheel develops a slight vibration and the steering starts to pull to the passenger side, where the wheel is heating up.
Now I have been thinking about this while away and if the caliper was sticking because of seized pins or pistons it would take a lot less time to manifest itself, so something is heating up and causing the caliper to stick on? I think it was Frango that suggested that the brake lines may be at fault? I am giving a garage a ring tomorrow to see if he can come up with any ideas, apparently he is a independent Jeep specialist.
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:16 PM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

I never had a vibration issue, but mine would take about 10-15 minutes of driving before the squeal would start and it was pretty intermittent after that. After application of the brakes, it would stop, then it would return when steering. Just the slightest movement of the wheel would cause a steady squeak. When I was driving straight, there was no issue. The new pins solved that problem....but if you had calipers REPLACED, they would have had to install new pins, so that should eliminate that as an issue.
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  #21  
Old 04-25-2011, 12:53 PM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

Did you jack the car and try to rotate the wheel after half an hour drive or more? Did you try to open the bleed screw on the caliper and check if there was pressure on the fluid? If there is fluid under pressure coming out, then its a sign of or a partly blocked line (probably a rubber hose) or master cilinder problem. Take care to not let air enter into the caliper, otherwise the brake will become spongy.
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  #22  
Old 04-26-2011, 04:02 PM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

SO, you re-used your glazed pads? Did you remove the glaze/burnt layer first? Again if you only changed the pads on one side and not the other they are at different wear points and the side with the thicker pads can drag or at the very least grab before the more worn pads on the other side. This would make one brake try to do the job of two and when you brake most of the stopping is done by the front brakes as this is where the weight shifts under braking.
Just to re-cap you put new brakes on when you purchased the Jeep, had the caliper stick resulting in a glowing hot rotor and then replaced the caliper on the faulty side. And re-used your pads and rotor that had been glowing red hot? If it got that hot you definitely warped the rotor and glazed the pads. Both of which you should address before expecting the brakes to work normally again.
You can try to sand the glaze off of the pads if they are not too bad but don't expect them to stop like fresh ones would if you do this. Also you should look up how to bed your brakes after changing/resurfacing the pads as this will help them work correctly and will usually bring any problems to your attention before they make you a road hazard to other motorists.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:36 AM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

Yes I re-used the glazed pads after a light sanding to get rid of the glazing.
If the disk is warped it gives no indication of this at all, I know what warped disks are like, thats why they got changed in the first place.
The brakes work perfectly well and there is no grabbing or pulling to one side.
I am familiar with the process of bedding in the brakes and don't think it is anything to do with the problem.

The brakes work well and behave as normal up until about 40-45 minutes have passed, then, the brakes start grabbing and slight vibration is felt at the steering wheel and on stopping the passenger wheel and brake are smoking hot!
I know that I will have to replace both disks and pads, but I was hoping for a reason for this happening so that I can prevent it as I don't want to be spending money like this every couple of months.
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:12 AM
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Re: Sticking Caliper

Quote:
Originally Posted by barney9304 View Post
Yes I re-used the glazed pads after a light sanding to get rid of the glazing.
If the disk is warped it gives no indication of this at all, I know what warped disks are like, thats why they got changed in the first place.
The brakes work perfectly well and there is no grabbing or pulling to one side.
I am familiar with the process of bedding in the brakes and don't think it is anything to do with the problem.

The brakes work well and behave as normal up until about 40-45 minutes have passed, then, the brakes start grabbing and slight vibration is felt at the steering wheel and on stopping the passenger wheel and brake are smoking hot!
I know that I will have to replace both disks and pads, but I was hoping for a reason for this happening so that I can prevent it as I don't want to be spending money like this every couple of months.
Have you checked the flexi hose for any corrosion? the part of the hose which goes into the caliper is made from crap metal and prone to corroding to hell with our weather. I'd try changing the fluid or taking the caliper off and seeing if the pistons move freely. You're right about how it seems it's only happening once the parts have heated up and been in use.

You shouldn't need to change the discs unless they are gubbed. I've had new discs on for over a year with the teves calipers and no problems whatsoever (well apart from a knackered piston in the off side caliper).
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