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  #25  
Old 09-24-2013, 07:52 AM
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Re: Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

I mounted a VKLR2260, dpf & egr delete, local diesel tuner, all the rest stock

I finaly found a place where we can dyno without having any work done to the car.

It was not us but an employee from the place who was doing the pulls.

Out of 8 - 9 pulls we only had 4 good ones.

ESP was fully switched off.

First & 2nd pull, my tune wich I drive now for 30.000 km

Only in the first pull he could give full throttle without downshifting.
The computerscreen was calibrated till 210KW and it flat spotted from 3200 to 4200 rpm, so this would have been the best pull but I don't have a print out.

2nd pull was 205KW/3473RPM & 670NM/2541RPM

Just a little haze out of the exhaust

Now we loaded standard map, no DPF, no cat
3th pull was 163KW/3811RPM & 429NM/2919RPM

Now I thought let's make a dyno queen so we added 10% more fuel

4th pull was 200KW/3568RPM & 665NM/2486RPM

Lots of smoke

This is where I was shure that the guy behind the wheel wasn't pushing full throttle.

Anyone know how we can avoid the downshifting?
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  #26  
Old 09-27-2013, 08:53 PM
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I still wish there was more out there for our motor. Would love to wake it up more.
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  #27  
Old 10-01-2013, 02:51 PM
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Re: Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel2fast4u View Post
I mounted a VKLR2260, dpf & egr delete, local diesel tuner, all the rest stock
I finaly found a place where we can dyno without having any work done to the car.
It was not us but an employee from the place who was doing the pulls.
Out of 8 - 9 pulls we only had 4 good ones.
ESP was fully switched off.
First & 2nd pull, my tune wich I drive now for 30.000 km
Only in the first pull he could give full throttle without downshifting.
The computerscreen was calibrated till 210KW and it flat spotted from 3200 to 4200 rpm, so this would have been the best pull but I don't have a print out.
2nd pull was 205KW/3473RPM & 670NM/2541RPM
Just a little haze out of the exhaust
Now we loaded standard map, no DPF, no cat
3th pull was 163KW/3811RPM & 429NM/2919RPM
Now I thought let's make a dyno queen so we added 10% more fuel
4th pull was 200KW/3568RPM & 665NM/2486RPM
Lots of smoke
This is where I was shure that the guy behind the wheel wasn't pushing full throttle.

Anyone know how we can avoid the downshifting?
I am not sure what can be done to keep it from downshifting except setting up a custom dyno tune to allow it to stay in fourth gear. Manually selecting the gear only works so well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Burner View Post
I still wish there was more out there for our motor. Would love to wake it up more.
Not a lot out there, but I am working on more stuff. Once my son starts sleeping better at night, I should be able to get back out in the shop and finish up some more projects. Put a good tune with dpf delete, intercooler upgrade, turbo resonator delete will get you in the low 14s in the quarter mile. Put the turbo diesel2fast4u has put on with the mods mentioned earlier and you should be able to get into high 13s with proper fueling. After that its much more work, dual fuelers, bigger turbo, or compound setup. No one even makes head studs for this engine, so until I get time to get some H11 studs made you really can't put to much boost into this engine without lifting the heads.
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  #28  
Old 10-01-2013, 08:18 PM
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I don't have the kidney bean resonator like most have as they switched to a different style around 07.5 and up. Yes I hear you and I do look forward to more items to help our jeeps go faster etc. Plus I like seeing how other guys come up with new ideas to try out and improve. Depending on what's keeping your son up at night I may be able to give a few suggestions as I'm the father to 2 autistic children and lets just say they don't sleep.
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:01 AM
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Re: Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

Quote:
Originally Posted by tnadanzig View Post
I am not sure what can be done to keep it from downshifting except setting up a custom dyno tune to allow it to stay in fourth gear. Manually selecting the gear only works so well.


Not a lot out there, but I am working on more stuff. Once my son starts sleeping better at night, I should be able to get back out in the shop and finish up some more projects. Put a good tune with dpf delete, intercooler upgrade, turbo resonator delete will get you in the low 14s in the quarter mile. Put the turbo diesel2fast4u has put on with the mods mentioned earlier and you should be able to get into high 13s with proper fueling. After that its much more work, dual fuelers, bigger turbo, or compound setup. No one even makes head studs for this engine, so until I get time to get some H11 studs made you really can't put to much boost into this engine without lifting the heads.
Well, things I have found out about our Gearbox :
1. since it's mercedes, there are AMG parts available so it can be build to handle 1000 NM, the finns with their diesel wagon benz driftcar also use the gearbox
2. I bought a stand alone controller for the gearbox but I didn't have the time to plug out the connector to check if the engine even would run and I have no idea how many warnings will come up at the dash
With this controller you can drive full manual mode.
3. Do a search for AMG speedshift, this is a torque converter with full lockup from gear 2, it uses friction plates and is used for example in the SLR and other AMG cars
4. It must be possible to tune the transmissions ECU but I don't even now where it's located
5. There are some other solenoids (blue color from SLR) that raise the tranny line pressure

Things I found out about the engine :

1. The intake manifold is very bad, to go into higher numbers then I have, this has to be looked into (also swirl etc has to go)
2. The fuel pump would have to be upgraded if you want to go over 330HP, to for example a CP3 from a 400CDI but that is not plug & play, but its big enough for 450HP
3. The injectors, being bosch piŽzo can handle easy 85+ HP per cilinder, they are very big, but they don't like the higher rail pressure (I had one failure)
4. To get over 300 HP we need a different rail pressure sender (limited at 1600 bar would love to find a plug & play 2000 bar)
5. We need a 4 bar map sensor, we have 3 bar. I can only make 1.8 bar of boost because of this if we go any higher on standard Map sensor we get cutouts because of peek boost sometimes. You can put whatever turbo you want, mine is ok for 350HP but as you cannot exceed the map values the ECU cut's out fuel. I would leave the 2260 and compound it with a HX40 or something (there is room enough)
6. I have been punishing mine now for 70.000 km, this means hauling my raceboat several times on trips for more than 2000 km @ 120km/h + on cruise control, sometimes pulling more then 3500kg, driving it for longtime at 200km/h on cruise control and doing alot of full throttle red lights starts and I didn't have one failure (exept for a leaking injector)
So I think that the engine could be a 400HP dialy driver.
7. You need DPF & cat & EGR delete, It took me a long time but I found al the maps in the EDC16

Things I found out about the car.
1.The brakes are shit, you need brembo srt8 upgrade if you want to drive it hard.
2. Same thing for the stock suspension, I did full SRT8 swap
3. at 200km/h you already have 4000 rpm, I got 220 out of mine, I would love some longer gears
4. it's build to last, I have 225.000 km on mine and it feels like 50.000
5. now this is gona upset people As long if you don't messure air intake temp before and after the intercooler, why do an upgrade to a bigger cooler? up untill now the standard cooler works just fine for me, same goes for the intake, the stock system flows enough air untill now.
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  #30  
Old 10-07-2013, 01:01 AM
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Re: Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

seems I am the only one who found out some stuff lol

Who has a full service manual & wiring diagram in pdf?
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  #31  
Old 10-17-2013, 01:14 PM
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Re: Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

Sorry, haven't had much time to get on the forum's with work and two young ones. I don't have a service manual in PDF. I bought the actual book manual. But I thought someone on here had one. I found out most of what you have, but you have more knowledge on several of the finer points, but some info that I have.

1. Yes, there a few shops in the US that tune the gearbox to handle massive power behind the hemi in the SRT8 models. I have talked with them about my transmission and they were more than capable to build it up to handle all this engine could muster.
2. Interesting, let me know it if works.
3. I have looked, but trying to find them in the US is very difficult.
4. A couple of shops offer tuned TCM's but they are more for the hemi and only help in manual mode. The tuned valve body helps more with shift points than tuning that I have seen so far.
5. Yes, I have seen the blue tops for the SLR, but I have heard better reports of a tuned valve body upgrade. Paramount Performance offers one.
1. Yep, I have an extra set that I am trying to remove all the bolt posts in and open up for more flow. Itís similar to what we do on the 6.0 & 6.4 Powerstrokes. Swirl valves are long gone, with holes welded up. If that doesnít work then it off the custom manifolds, but with the water running through the manifold, it seems like a lot of work unless itís truly necessary.
2. I have an extra CP3 injector pump and have made a slave controller to run the extra CP3 similar to what they use on the Duramaxes and Cummins. I made my own because our connectors are different and I have a buddy that is an EE and works at a place that makes stuff like this all day long. It only cost me like $75 to make instead of over $200 and still need new connectors. I figured this would be easier than trying to get a 400CDI pump and all the tuning issues with it. I can fab up all the brackets, pulley, and stuff for the extra pump. Shown is the prototype controller without correct length wire and connectors.
3&4. 85 HP per cylinder is good. I am shooting for about 375-400 HP at the wheels. I don't understand 3&4 they seem like they contradict each other. I would like to add a stronger rail pressure sensor, but think the tuning would make it too difficult.
5. Ya, I looked for one, but need to get with my tuner to see if we can make something work. Otherwise, I have tuning that keeps fueling even though I am maxed out on the MAP sensor. I can get quite a bit of smoke, so I know I have more fuel to burn just need to add more air. I got the 2260 and will run that for a while and work to get around 275 whp. Then I plan on compounding with a BW S366 I have laying around from my Powerstroke. I still need to get an extra engine to play with so I can see how much power it can handle before something gives up. I talked with A1 Technologies to see about some H11 studs for the high boost pressures to make sure the head gaskets survive.
7. Got the DPF delete and EGR deletes. Still need to remove the egr cooler and reroute the coolant lines. I made up some EGR plates.
1. I have thought about the brembo upgrade, but I am working on something different. Trying to get the spindles from the SRT8 is expensive and difficult. Plus then you are forced to run 20ís. I working on the setup now and will post more when I have it figured out. I hope it will work with 17ís and the standard spindle so itís easy to retrofit.
2. I have tried the SRT8 suspension, but I like to go off road a bit and the SRT8 rides nice, but lacks travel. I bottomed my suspension out almost every day when I had the SRT8 suspension and still do with the stock springs. I have some section near my house that I like to run hard and just sucks bottoming out the suspension so hard. I am working on a coilover setup that I can leave at roughly stock height and get 12Ē of travel and more up travel. I am a huge fan of TORC Pro-Lite trucks. When I was a kid a guy raced and we would watch him practice on his own track on this farm. I try to make it to a race or two a year. Would love to race, but not rich enough for that and I donít like as close to Crandon, WI as I used to.
3. Well my one WK has the QD2 setup, but its for off road and rally cross, so I am not worried about gears. My other one has QT2 setup and I have 3.08 axles and need to swap them out so I can really get some real speed and economy. Shooting for 30+ mpg 4x4 WK CRD.
4. Both of mine are below 100K mi, but they still run strong with no issues. Both are tuned.
5. I would agree the stock intercooler doesnít lower the temps as well. However, disagree and feel the real issue with the intercooler is core size and the outlet id size of 1.67Ē. This is way too small to be able to get any power out of. With this outlet size you are pretty much limited to max ~ 275 HP. The physics wonít allow you to get more than that HP out of a hole that size. The flow becomes turbulent any higher flow so you end up losing power. I think your dyno runs prove most of that point. When I installed a large 3Ē core intercooler it was night and day difference. On a stock Jeep it runs better than one with a stock intercooler and a good DPF delete tune.


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  #32  
Old 04-03-2014, 08:02 AM
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Re: Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel2fast4u View Post
I mounted a VKLR2260, dpf & egr delete, local diesel tuner, all the rest stock

I finaly found a place where we can dyno without having any work done to the car.

It was not us but an employee from the place who was doing the pulls.

Out of 8 - 9 pulls we only had 4 good ones.

ESP was fully switched off.

First & 2nd pull, my tune wich I drive now for 30.000 km

Only in the first pull he could give full throttle without downshifting.
The computerscreen was calibrated till 210KW and it flat spotted from 3200 to 4200 rpm, so this would have been the best pull but I don't have a print out.

2nd pull was 205KW/3473RPM & 670NM/2541RPM

Just a little haze out of the exhaust

Now we loaded standard map, no DPF, no cat
3th pull was 163KW/3811RPM & 429NM/2919RPM

Now I thought let's make a dyno queen so we added 10% more fuel

4th pull was 200KW/3568RPM & 665NM/2486RPM

Lots of smoke

This is where I was shure that the guy behind the wheel wasn't pushing full throttle.

Anyone know how we can avoid the downshifting?
How can you be making so much torque when gear box is rated for only 580NM ??
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  #33  
Old 04-07-2014, 09:24 AM
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Re: Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

Because these transmissions can hold a bit more torque than what they are rated at.
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  #34  
Old 04-07-2014, 03:07 PM
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Re: Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

i agree on the "a bit more" being 590 - 600nm max ... But not 700 nm !!
I know this 722.6 (nag1) transmission can be refurbish to handle crazy amount of torque an hp, but stock ... I don't know, first thought is I wouln't push it more then 590 personaly ...
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  #35  
Old 04-09-2014, 11:28 AM
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Re: Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

I am at the same power level ~ 650Nm and I haven't had any issues. I even pull a car trailer with mine from time to time and have never had any issues. I don't baby mine at all and the transmission still keeps up just fine. If or when it does fail I will get a full build so it could easily handle ~1000Nm. The SRT8 guys put over 700Nm for quite a bit of time and they handle it. I will keep pushing it to see how much it can handle.
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:02 PM
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Re: Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

humm... that's interesting because I always thought the TCM was the key "servo" regulating (with the ECM) the amount of torque that it can output. From it's name (W5A580), it should be configured to be outputing a max of 580Nm... However I've seen people saying that the transmission fited into the CRD is another variant of the W5A580 i.e. 545RFE or WJ5400. I think here the key difference is the gearing of the second gear having a second prime for smoother shifting... not sure thoug.
Here's an interesting thread check post number 7.
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