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How can I improve my detailing?

3K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  joenjulie 
#1 ·
Little update from my detailing weekend after reading for weeks. Overall, I would rate it a 6/10 experience. I used the Porter Cable 7424XP buffer for the first time and caused no damage, which was my biggest fear being new to detailing. However, I was not able to remove all of the cobweb swirls and a few of the scratches from the paint. I have read through detailedimage, this forum and many other sites, but I am hoping for some specific suggestions how to improve my technique on the Jeep.

Here is what I did: Since I was outside, I started early to avoid any direct sunlight on the Jeep. Did a full hand wash, with the two bucket method and the chemical guys citrus wash. Followed it up by using a 200grit clay bar with a diluted Optimum No Rinse as the lubricant. Went heavy with the lubricant, and wiped off all residue with a clean microfiber towel. Followed it up with a full quick detail using the ONR to remove any settled dust before polishing.

Started with the polish, Menzerna 4500, using a orange pad from detailedimage (not Lake Country). Worked in about 20"x20" areas with light pressure about enough to compress the pad about 25%, making sure to cover with overlapping patterns vertically, and then horizontally. After the polish hazed/became dusty, I wiped off excess polish and moved to the next section.

The whole jeep took about 2 hours for one coat of polish. I only used a yellow pad over the area where I had the scratches. The area feels smoother, but the scratches are still visible from multiple angles, and does not seem to be deeper than the clear coat.

I then went on to sealant using the Black Fire Wet Diamond and blue pads. I applied no pressure and moved a bit quicker taking 1.5 hrs to apply the sealant. It got dark at this point, so I called it a night and let it cure overnight. The next day, I did another quick detail with the diluted ONR, and put on a second coat of sealant.
I ran out of time to apply the wax.

Here are my questions:
1. How much pressure should I apply if I am trying to remove a scratch?
2. Should I have used Meguiars Ultimate Compound or the scratch x 2.0? I have both at home.
3. I am looking to buy some more pads if that might help, what colors should I buy? I was planning to buy the LC hydro tech ones but not sure which colors to buy.
4. Any mistakes or errors or points for correction?

Essentially, I am just hoping you might see what I did wrong that I didn't remove the cobwebbing and some of the minor scratches that I thought this buffer would remove. Thanks so much!
 
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#6 ·
Here is what I use with the meguiars 105/205 combo:

Yellow pad - Heavy cut (deeper scratches) with 105
Orange pad - Light cut with 105
White pad - 205

I have the cars in pretty good shape, so that now I only break out the
105 for any newly found scratches/imperfections on our cars, using either
the orange or yellow pad - starting with the orange first to see if handles
the problem.

My routine is to touch up scratches (after the citrus wash and claybar)
and then polish the entire car with 205. The pix is our 2008 car that I just
detailed last weekend (sorry not the jeep - that was detailed earlier in the
spring!).

My suggestion is to read DI and other people's experiences (ex, ratings
on products on DI/Amazon etc) and then find what what works for you.
There are plenty of great products out there, but you have to be in
the ballpark. Happy detailing - it's an addiction!
 

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#7 ·
Your 2008 looks great! I am so disappointed that I discover orange peel on my paint only after trying to make it better. I never noticed until I read DI and then detailed it.

Thanks for all the suggestions. If I have already applied sealant, can I do touch up scratch repair with m105? What prep do I need to do to prep the area with the scratch other than clean it/clay bar it?
 
#9 ·
You are on the right track for sure. With a random, you ALMOST can cause any damage, it doesn't get hot enough. That being said, you wouldn't want to take a new car and use compound, so it comes down to using the right product. I always start lighter(but I've been doing it a while, so I have a good idea what to start with) and go heavier. I mainly use orange pads for everything unless it's severe, then go back to orange, then blue or black for finishing, then crimson for final. Look at where you are buying them from, some of the colors don't correlate to "cut" for all pads, meaning LC orange or yellow may not be the same as someone elses. I've seen atleast 2 different types of orange, yellow, pink, green and they were all different "cuts". There isn't an exact science because every paint/clearcoat is different(some soft, some hard). Taking time and going vertical/horizontal like you did will help the correction you want the first time. Maybe a little long on the blackfire application, you can go pretty quick with it as it won't stain trim so you don't have to be as careful, it takes me about 20 minutes to cover the bulk of the car, then I go back and hand to all the little spots, by then it's ready to remove pending temperature/humidity.
If you've already applied sealant and need to fix a spot, I just go right to polishing, then IPA wipe the area and re-apply your sealant. I've found with BFWD, I much prefer no topping it(even with the BF Midnight Sun), and just used the BF Poly Spray to top it up if beading drops off(our previous BMW loved this combo, made it super easy to maintain). Practice and trial and error, i.e. Buckeye is right, don't swing too big to start, pick a spot, and work it until you get your desired results, then do the whole car. Like anything, it takes time. You are waaay ahead of most people, you are taking the time to put some effort into the way it looks, most run it through a car wash, or go to the dealer for the "free car washes for life" and call it good. I can't see dropping 40-60k on a vehicle and not keeping it up. FYI, when you dry the car, try and sheet(take nozzle off and run the water over the jeep top down) as much water off as possible(after you admire your nice little beads), and spritz your drying towel with some detailer/spray sealer/etc before touching the paint, that will help over time with the light little spider webs, and let your towel sort of glide across the paint vs "rubbing". You'll be fine man, good luck.
 
#11 ·
WOW! Thanks for the great assessment BuckeyeSRT and Joenjulie! I have been very impressed with all the things that I have learned from this forum and from detailedimage. Just a two months ago, I thought I was doing everything right by avoiding car washes and the dealer washes like they were the plague. Instead I was doing everything by hand with microfiber, and even this had major room for improvement, ie waffleweave towels, grit guards, PC7424 buffers, etc; and all stuff I own now!

Mdest723, I tried taking photos, but my camera just was not doing a good job capturing the scratches. Overall, you really can't see a single scratch unless you are in the right light at the right angle. I have the spiderwebs on the hood, no where else are they noticeable to the point of being bothersome. I have about 5 or 6 scratches about 3 inches long and a couple millimeters deep on the front bumper and near the gas tank lid, from a tree branch scrape. The other minor ones I am trying to remove are near the door handles and tailgate from my watch band or keys making incidental contact with the paint. These ones are about the same depth of the spiderwebs on the hood, but clearly a different mechanism based on the scratch's orientation.

Has anyone tried the Meguiar's Correction Compound? The reviews seem to say it works almost as well as the m105/m205, but in just one step. I saw the thread on here from a couple years ago, so wondering why this hasn't replaced the m105/m205 combo.

Thanks again for all the great info!!
 
#12 ·
If the scratches have not reached the paint, and are only in the clear coat,
then some combination of product and pad should be able to handle it.
It is just a matter of finding that combo!

As for scratches around the door handle where the PC buffer cannot get at,
I used the orange pad side of German Polish 'N Wax Applicator (from a mega applicator kit that I had bought on ebay) for a similar problem and it did a pretty
good job with 105 applied by hand. Happy detailing!
 
#14 ·
If it's too deep on the bumper, you're kinda stuck with that. The light spider webbing and key marks are just a matter of the right pad/polish. I've got the 3" pads and although tight they fit under the door handle, you just can't get much oomph on them to actually polish. I use a cotton"terry" pad for that sometimes too, then go to a foam pad, and sometimes the wife has to hold the handle open while i work the scratches, then "fill" them in with a glaze because I know she can't manage to open a door without somehow having her fingernails touch the paint, but I seem to be able to. Thank good for the keyless go though, that way the keys stay safe in her purse away from the car. You'll get it. I find myself finding new ways of doing things and trying stuff out, some I'm like, wow that's awesome, but I've also had a couple Oh sh$t! moments too. Detailedimage "how to" and "ask a pro" are your friend, lots of great info, and sometimes just a product review will give you all the ins/outs of how to apply and so on that you need. Keep on keeping on brother.
 
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