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  #1  
Old 04-16-2017, 04:05 PM
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Borla ATAK DIY

Was searching and didn't see anything. Is there any DIY's on the install or at least on the removal of the stock exhaust? My brother and I are going to install but it be nice to have an idea what to expect taking off and putting back in.

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Old 04-16-2017, 04:18 PM
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Re: Borla ATAK DIY

Should just bolt on, you may just need to tweak the tip alignment once on. That was the only issue with mine but with some adjustment (I had my mechanic install it) it is spot on.

Enjoy
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Old 04-16-2017, 04:37 PM
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Re: Borla ATAK DIY

lots and lots and lots and lots of silicone spray lube or similar to hose down the rear reso hangar grommets....they are booger so just be patient and, trust me, lube them down generously. Lube the front suitcase ones too just to make them super easy but they are not tough....

fwiw, this can be done one person on back with vehicle on ramps/stands all corners...of course a helper or lift are big bonuses...I had no lift or helper so I used bungees and tie downs to hold the x-pipe/suitcase up while I unbolted it to take the stress out of the joints...everyone has their own way or trick that was mine...

it's only a 2 hour ish job if you set up for the job and are not horribly unlucky on the fiddle farting on the tip alignment....
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:22 PM
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Re: Borla ATAK DIY

Pretty much what everyone has said. I did mine alone on my back with the SRT on jack stands. Work back to front, the driver side rear muffler can be loosened and that helps the whole factory system wiggle lose. The front mounts on the suitcase can be loosened and unbolted. I laid out a couple shipping blankets and just let it fall a bit, no way I could hold it up alone, so if you have a friend to lend a hand would help.

For me, taking my time, it took almost two hours to get the stock system off. Then I had the mounts transferred over and the Borla bolted up in about an hour. Add another hour for adjustments and taking regular breaks and I had about five hours installed.

It's not difficult at all just time consuming, especially with OCD. Be sure to wrap the stock tips to avoid scratching the rear valence. Also, leave the bubble wrap in the Borla tips until you are completely done with the major adjustments, again to avoid scratching anything. Drive it around the block, punch it a few times to let everything shift, then you will need to re-adjust everything again, and again, and again, then it all stays put.


If you get stuck come back here for help.
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Old 04-17-2017, 08:48 AM
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Re: Borla ATAK DIY

Thanks for all the replies...will be printing it all out to go along with the directions that came with the exhaust. Luckily there will be two of us and I'll put the rear up on racing ramps.

I'm not super mechanically inclined but my brother is and does all his own work so I figure we should be able to get it done without killing each other

Now just waiting to get the suitcases back from having the tips coated.
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Old 04-17-2017, 09:50 AM
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Re: Borla ATAK DIY

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Originally Posted by wraab View Post
...I'll put the rear up on racing ramps...
maybe this won't b an issue...but...if u mean that literally and the front won't b lifted it might b more difficult to get final alignment since no matter how tight you make the clamps it will sag/settle once you lower rear...I recommend installing with vehicle level not at an angle for install...
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Old 04-17-2017, 09:59 AM
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Re: Borla ATAK DIY

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Originally Posted by GoPlzGo View Post
maybe this won't b an issue...but...if u mean that literally and the front won't b lifted it might b more difficult to get final alignment since no matter how tight you make the clamps it will sag/settle once you lower rear...I recommend installing with vehicle level not at an angle for install...
Totally understand, (and agree), but to do the majority of the work, with 2 of us under there, we'll raise the rear. Finish it all with the jeep back on flat ground.
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Old 04-17-2017, 10:05 AM
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Re: Borla ATAK DIY

well, that won't address my point...part of the alignment is the in, out and twist of all joints to get it 95% aligned so that you can dial it in with the rear reso and axle pipe joints....my x-pipe in/out fiddling could not be done not lifted...you might get lucky on x-pipe initial in/out install so that the joints u can reach not lifted will allow final fitment...
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Old 04-17-2017, 10:06 AM
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Re: Borla ATAK DIY

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Originally Posted by GoPlzGo View Post
well, that won't address my point...part of the alignment is the in, out and twist of all joints to get it 95% aligned so that you can dial it in with the real reso and axle pipe joints....my x-pipe in/out fiddling could not be done not lifted...you might get lucky on x-pipe initial in/out install so that the joints u can reach not lifted will allow final fitment...

hmmmm, duly noted. thanks man!
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Old 04-17-2017, 04:47 PM
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Re: Borla ATAK DIY

Yeah, I'd have to agree with Go. You'd be best to put the truck up on four jack stands to install, the first major adjustment will be movement at almost all the slip joints and at the header connection. You work back to front to get the stocker off, and front to back to put the Atak on. Not to mention with the truck level you can get everything closer at the rear before fine adjustments. To me the only peeve of the system is the rear L pipes, because they can pretty much twist in almost every direction, so there will be a lot of adjustments made to all four of those connection points to get the rear tips perfect.

You'll understand better once you're under there, but if you're not in a hurry it will all be fine. Just be safe and make sure the stands or ramps are 10000% set, and if you do use the ramps to block the wheels. We want to see the and hear the results!
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Old 04-19-2017, 01:13 PM
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The axle back atak, the 14's & 15's had a weld mark that you mark 3" and cut, the 16s don't have the weld so there really is no reference but to hold it up, align the hangers best you can and cut mark it.
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Old 04-19-2017, 01:37 PM
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Re: Borla ATAK DIY

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonniMR View Post
Yeah, I'd have to agree with Go. You'd be best to put the truck up on four jack stands to install, the first major adjustment will be movement at almost all the slip joints and at the header connection. You work back to front to get the stocker off, and front to back to put the Atak on. Not to mention with the truck level you can get everything closer at the rear before fine adjustments. To me the only peeve of the system is the rear L pipes, because they can pretty much twist in almost every direction, so there will be a lot of adjustments made to all four of those connection points to get the rear tips perfect.

You'll understand better once you're under there, but if you're not in a hurry it will all be fine. Just be safe and make sure the stands or ramps are 10000% set, and if you do use the ramps to block the wheels. We want to see the and hear the results!
Thanks, and duly noted. I'll def post up pics and vid of the before and after.
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