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  #13  
Old 07-25-2016, 12:12 AM
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Re: Broken Gorilla

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Originally Posted by Carbon6 View Post
I would of *carefully* hammered on a thin wall socket over the lug and then taken it off that way, thats how we did it when I worked at Discount Tire in my teens. If you are good, you won't hurt the wheel but it will destroy the socket and thats what warranties are for (craftsman, snap-on, etc)
Given that we used probably considerably over 1,000 ft. lbs. of impact wrench torque for several minutes before the lock sheared, I'd guess that it wouldn't have helped, especially given that the wheel locks are forged.

That said, I wish I tried

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  #14  
Old 07-25-2016, 10:54 PM
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Re: Broken Gorilla

I had this problem - not on my SRT, but the lug nuts were stuck on the stud with the studs turning in the axle hub holes. After a review of my options, I decided drilling the studs axially was the best solution. Like the OP I was not confident in keeping the drill centered on the stud. I used a 3/8" drive deep-well socket that fit the lug nuts. Then I bought a HS steel drill bit that fit in the drive end of the socket to stay centered. I was pleasantly surprised how well that worked. Once I drilled sufficiently deep, I broke off the weakened nut/stud remainder and then punched the stud remainder out of the axle hub.
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  #15  
Old 07-25-2016, 11:25 PM
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Re: Broken Gorilla

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Originally Posted by ufjaz View Post
I had this problem - not on my SRT, but the lug nuts were stuck on the stud with the studs turning in the axle hub holes. After a review of my options, I decided drilling the studs axially was the best solution. Like the OP I was not confident in keeping the drill centered on the stud. I used a 3/8" drive deep-well socket that fit the lug nuts. Then I bought a HS steel drill bit that fit in the drive end of the socket to stay centered. I was pleasantly surprised how well that worked. Once I drilled sufficiently deep, I broke off the weakened nut/stud remainder and then punched the stud remainder out of the axle hub.

Wow, excellent idea using a socket to stay centered. Really wish I thought of it. Would have saved me hours.

Thank you


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  #16  
Old 07-26-2016, 12:02 PM
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Re: Broken Gorilla

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron-Indy View Post
Given that we used probably considerably over 1,000 ft. lbs. of impact wrench torque for several minutes before the lock sheared, I'd guess that it wouldn't have helped, especially given that the wheel locks are forged.

That said, I wish I tried
You'll be surprised what hitting a hammered on socket w/ a impact gun will make easy work of. Either the lug comes off or the stud breaks... only had a handful of times that the stud broke.

Regardless, sucks that happened. Did you email gorilla regarding the broken lock and the seat angle differences? Curious to hear if they would say the lug is not "for this application"
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  #17  
Old 07-26-2016, 05:51 PM
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Re: Broken Gorilla

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Originally Posted by Carbon6 View Post
You'll be surprised what hitting a hammered on socket w/ a impact gun will make easy work of. Either the lug comes off or the stud breaks... only had a handful of times that the stud broke.



Regardless, sucks that happened. Did you email gorilla regarding the broken lock and the seat angle differences? Curious to hear if they would say the lug is not "for this application"

When I called Gorilla they said they never heard of this happening and offered to send a replacement locking nut. At the time I was unaware of the angle variance so when the tech gets back from vacation next week I'll be calling him back for an explanation.

He knew the part number so it's for my application. Bought a set of Mopar locks as low risk replacement.


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  #18  
Old 07-26-2016, 06:09 PM
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Re: Broken Gorilla

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Originally Posted by Ron-Indy View Post
After gaffer taping up the wheel I punched both the stud and the remaining wheel lock. That was my first mistake, being seduced by the thought of splitting the lock rather than drilling the stud. Why? It looked easier and I was warned that drilling that length of stud without a horizontal drill press would be impossible to keep the bit centered. “You don’t want to drill through your wheel” he said.

That bit of advice, as you will see, I could have done without.






Then I try a chisel, bad to worse…




Finally I realize drilling the stud IS the better way.




But it takes a lot of drilling with progressively larger bits to get there. You’ll notice the gaffers tape is gone and my wheel is now naked. Cutting oil dissolves gaffer tape glue.

So now I crush the remaining stud shell, re-center and continue drilling.




I see a little light deep inside the edge of the drilled hole so I put the remaining four lug nuts back on and lower the lift to finish the job.

Snap crackle pop.




But wait, the wheel lock is STILL stuck in the wheel! And yes, my beautiful PVD finish is scratched to hell but fortunately not quite as bad as this "pre-cleanup" image makes it out to be.




Though I suppose I could have done it without a lift, having it made a crap job a little less crappy. Nussbaum double scissor lift. 7,000 lbs. capacity, 4” drive over height, 7 foot lift height and very space and concrete floor friendly. If you have the ceiling height, I highly recommend.




Galling? Not sure but I’d guess if there was I’d see metal transfer between the cone and the dish. I don’t see it.

Bad hole:




Not bad hole:




Wheel lock:



I don’t see galling as the cause, but I do see the stupidity of thinking I could split that thing.



So what’s the cause? There seems to be a difference in seat angle, OEM versus Gorilla:




Could this combined with excessive install torque due to the oiled threads, drive the locking lug too deep into the wheel? That’s my guess as to what happened and therefore I am going Gorilla-less just to play it safe.

Other lessons –

You can’t install a new stud into the wheel hub without taking apart the parking brakes. Once you remove the shoes, springs, etc., you have to remove the 4 small bolts holding the backing plate, then spin it enough to line up a slot where the parking brake cable enters, with the hole. Once I got the stud in, I tried seating it with a C-Clamp to no avail. Ended up using an old 14M 1.5 castle nut with a small spacer to pull the stud in to seat it.

Getting the rotor off can be a challenge too, despite the car being only 2 years old. Once you remove the caliper and the o-ring just in front of the rotor, I found getting a decent sized sledge hammer the best option (versus a rubber hammer, though no harm in trying one first) and then whacking it from underneath where the caliper contacts the rotor. Hitting it lightly only dents the rotor multiple times as you progressively get firmer. One good manly whack does it. Leave two lug nuts on loosely to retain it.

After mixing up some of my special PVD touchup paint, all is back together. Factory lug nuts, no oil on the threads and just a molecule of anti-seize on the cone. I’ll run it 100 miles and check tightness to see if it maintains. Rotated while everything was apart.




This is perhaps the wrong location for this thread given how it’s evolved, but I’ll leave that to the moderators.
I'm a little late to really offer any good help, but as a machinist, I'd look for a place that has an EDM and have them burn the stud out. So long as the guy running it isn't trying to force anything, you shouldn't have to worry about anything leading off and damaging the wheel.

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  #19  
Old 07-26-2016, 09:31 PM
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Re: Broken Gorilla

Quote:
Originally Posted by Relyt View Post
I'm a little late to really offer any good help, but as a machinist, I'd look for a place that has an EDM and have them burn the stud out. So long as the guy running it isn't trying to force anything, you shouldn't have to worry about anything leading off and damaging the wheel.
That's very cool! Didn't know that technology existed. Not sure how that would work with the wheel on the car but off the car it would have been perfect.

If I ever had to do this again, I'd use the socket to line things up and drill away. Had I done that from the start, I'm confident I would have made the repair without any wheel finish damage.
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  #20  
Old 08-07-2016, 08:37 PM
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Re: Broken Gorilla

It appears that the Gorilla's are in fact slightly smaller in diameter than the stock lug nuts. My guess is that this is part of the reason why the Gorilla lock lug got stuck on and therefore why I went to Mopar wheel locks.

Not very sophisticated but tells the story - OEM purple, Gorilla gray:

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  #21  
Old 08-10-2016, 11:38 AM
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Re: Broken Gorilla

You survived a nightmare situation! It cleanued up real nice though.
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