I'm starting this thread so I don't hijack the "what did you do to your wk2 today" thread. The installation of the box is pretty easy but you will need to install a dedicated amp to it. I installed the JL JX 500. I also plugged in the bass control knob which works out perfectly. The difference is really shocking between the JL and the HK. The minute you take out the HK enclosure, you know its crap quality, sorry to say. If anyone wants pics or anything else let me know. The only reason I didn't install the amp myself is because I didn't feel like trying to find a wire for the remote power source. I have a buddy who does it for a living so he did it for me. I did do the actual install of the JL box myself. And FYI I did it with one arm lol. I ruptured my right bicep tendon, so it's out of commission for a while.
Yes but I paid $579.00 shipped. Took them a few weeks to ship from California though. I don't think many places keep this item in stock. I don't know of any vendor here that sells it. I'll pm you the place I bought from if you want. I don't want to advertise a non paying vendor.
For those interested or maybe contemplating doing this, here are pics of the HK speaker and enclosure. If you are at all familiar with car stereos you'll easily recognize how cheap this thing is. Also I forgot to mention on the right rear cargo trim panel you do have to remove the lower half. I did this by using a heat gun and heating up the tabs they melt over the holes to secure it. Once they started to get soft I just used a fiber sick and gently pried up. The instructions that come with the sub says to use a grinder but the heat gun was much cleaner and easier.
The sub wiring runs behind the trim panel between the rear glass and the mesh cover for the woofer. Once you pull that rear panel of you will see it. It'll be 4 wires, the HK is a dual voice coil speaker. I'm under the impression you'll just use two of these for the JL. Black and red if memory serves.
Yes you will also need a line converter. As for sound, you can't really compare a single 10 inch sub to a big ported enclosure with some 12s or larger. The while point of the stealth box is for better bass with a stock look. For a single 10 I think it sounds great. Can you hear me coming a mile away, no. If you're looking for big SPL, then go with 12s or larger. But I think you will be surprised how good a single ten can sound.
The JL JX 500/1D comes with a speaker level input harness. You just need to tap into any speakers wires with full spectrum sent to the them (20-20Khz, usually the rear coaxials work but I am not sure on the WK2).
I have this same amp running my JL stealthbox in my WK. Easy to install and setup, cheap and small, and great quality.
There is another post here that shows the front door woofers dipping down to about 33hz. that's not low enough to take advantage of the new sub's capabilities. If you want your sub to produce frequencies above 80hz, which i dont personally like, you may need to sum the sub and the front door woofer. I dont know what the top hz range is for the subwoofer. if it dips off at 50 or 60hz, i'd personally include the front door woofer so i can cross over the sub at 80hz, where i prefer my home theater subs.
For that, you could use an LC2i so you have a bit more flexibility in tuning.
I'm very interested in going this route as well. I have the 9 speakers in my Limited and all the speakers are sounding better than day 1 now that they are broken in, but I'm not 100% pleased with the sub.
Do you feel the other speakers (highs/mids) keep up with the sub + amp at higher volumes? Did you do the wiring yourself and how? Was it a pain? I've wired subs and amp before in my truck and things were very easy to take apart, but I've never attempted to "tap into" other speaker wires as mentioned above, OR had to deal with line converters.
It's only a week old so I'm still timid about tearing into it with DIY type stuff..Thanks.
I'd tap the sub and maybe the front door speakers. I'm not sure what the upper hz range of the subwoofer is. If you want the sub to produce up to 100hz or so, which some prefer, you'd likely need to tap the front door speakers to get that.
I want my sub crossed over at 80hz, so i'm unsure if i need to tap the fronts...i probably will just to be safe.
It will be going into a Laredo without a factory sub. I'm using a JL 10W6 which should produce well over 100hz. Looks like I'll be using the Front speaker's signal then.
Ok, I'm not too familiar with the base system. In that case, i'd use signals from both front and rear. You never know, it might send a lower frequency to the rears. If you're adding just the sub, you want as low a signal as you can get. You mentioned using a LC2i, so might as well use both inputs. If you were only doing one, you could use a $10 LOC (Line output converter)
Subs are meant to product under 100hz. Actually, in a THX certified system, subs get signals under 80hz. Some people like their subs to produce 100hz tones, or even up to 120hz, but I dont like how that sounds....6x9's can do those just fine.
Please excuse my ignorance, but I assumed you could only provide 2 channels to the LC2i? Would I simply combine the front and back channels and wire the LC2i as they were one?
My bad, I did not look at the LC2i closely enough...it only has inputs for one set of speakers...I thought it had 2.
I would tap the fronts and see how that works for you. In most stereos, the front get the full range signal...but I know that's not the case for the Apline systems.
I don't see why you couldn't combine both into one signal and send to the LC2i though. Maybe someone with a bit more experience could chime in here.