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bjm9818 07-19-2010 11:16 PM

Made Blower motor Connector repair...But
Replaced resistor, cut and spliced the new harness in place. (thanks for everybody who helped me on my post a few weeks back.

The problem now is that I can hear the blower operating but the air comming out the vents is not what it used to be and it has been not great for some time. I had the expensive blend doors(dash removal) done two years and 1350bucks ago. It sounds like the blower is blocked somewhere behind the glove box. I hope it's just the blend door passenger side which requires the glove box instead of the entire dash. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I intend to drop the blower motor and make sure it looks ok before I do anythign but it certainly is making a lot of noise not to be working properly.

2003 Overlander.

Frango100 07-20-2010 04:48 AM

Re: Made Blower motor Connector repair...But
First make sure that the air inlet is not blocked with leaves or other debris. The blend doors should not cause this problem. They only take care of mixing hot and cold air. The problem could be the mode door, which directs the air to the windshield or other positions. When that one gets stuck in between, the air can be devided over several oulets and give the feeling of low flow. Since you have the AZC system, did you try the self test to see if any fault is shown?

To enter the AZC self-diagnostic mode, perform the
(1) Depress the a/c and recirc buttons at the same
time and hold. Rotate the left temperature control
knob clockwise (CW) one detent.
(2) If you continue to keep the a/c and recirc buttons
depressed, the AZC control module will perform
a Segment Test of the Vacuum Fluorescent (VF) display.
In the Segment Test you should see all of the
display segments illuminate as long as both buttons
are held. If a display segment fails to illuminate, the
vacuum fluorescent display is faulty and the a/c
heater control must be replaced.
(3) After viewing the Segment Test, release the
A/C and Recirc buttons and the display will clear
If a 0 is displayed, then no faults
are set in the system.
Should there be any faults,
"current"or "historical", all fault codes will be
displayed in ascending numerical sequence (note no
effort is made to display fault codes in chronological
order). Each fault code is displayed for one second
before the next code is displayed. Once all fault codes
have been displayed, the system will then repeat the
fault code numbers. This will continue until the left
side set temperature control is moved at least one
detent position in the CW direction or the ignition is

turned "

bjm9818 07-20-2010 10:21 AM

Re: Made Blower motor Connector repair...But
Thanks. I will pull off the plastic housing for the intake by the passenger wiper tonight and hit it with a vac. Hope that is the trick and not something else.

bjm9818 07-20-2010 06:04 PM

Re: Made Blower motor Connector repair...But
OK I did the auto test for the AZC by pressing the a/c and recirculate and what appeared was a code 52 error

52 = AI (Recirc) door travel range too large

Would this be corrected by recalbrating the AZC door actuators which I will try next or is this a bigger problem?

Frango100 07-21-2010 11:34 AM

Re: Made Blower motor Connector repair...But
I'm not sure, but it would not hurt at least to do the calibration first and see if it helps. I never have tried it myself, but here below a description how to access the actuator test. You can then control the respective actuator to see (or hear) if it moves.

In the Output Circuit/Actuator Test mode, the output
circuits can be viewed, monitored, overridden,
and tested. If a failure occurs in an output circuit,
test the circuit by overriding the system. Test the
actuator through its full range of operation.
(1) To begin the Output Circuit/Actuator Tests you
must be in the Select Test mode.
(2) With a 00 value displayed in the Test Selector
and no stick man, turn the rotary temperature control
knob until the test number you are looking for
appears in the Test Selector display. See the Circuit
Testing charts for a listing of the test numbers, test
items, test types, system tested, and displayed values.
(3) To see the output value, depress the a/c or
recirc button. The values displayed will represent the
output from the AZC control module.
(4) To enter the actuator test, depress the a/c or
recirc button. Then, rotate the right temperature set
knob to the desired position.

bjm9818 07-21-2010 09:53 PM

Re: Made Blower motor Connector repair...But
Ok so this is what I have learned tonight.

Had the glove box and blower motor out and the recirculator door works perfectly. Blower still blowing but nothing is coming out of vents. Since it's not the recirculator door. I was wondering if the blower power harnes that came with the new kit was crossed and the blower is running backwards but it's sucking air in throught the right places.

I come up with the idea of digging out the old resistor I threw in the trash on Sunday and seeing if I can hook that up. I bend the three fins on the old resistor 90degrees so they lign up with the new harnes I spliced on and shove it on. Thing works perfectly. So either the new resistor is bad or the wiring code of red black and small red with green is reversed on the new harness and I need to switch them ( which I highly doubt it)

Gonna call tomorrow where I got the part and make sure I got sent the correct one.

jmk10 09-02-2010 09:52 PM

Re: Made Blower motor Connector repair...But
I just saw your post as I was having a problem with the a/c on my JGC. I too had just replaced the resistor and spliced the new wires with a kit purchased from the dealer. The blower was operating but very little air was coming out any of the vents. I replaced the blower but no change. After trying all of the trouble shooting suggestions, I read your post and discovered the blower motor was operating in reverse. The two wires in the harness connecting the resistor to the blower motor were reversed. I was able to remove the wires from one end and switch them. Everything works great now.

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