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TJXJWJ 05-25-2011 08:11 AM

The typical rear-end "thunk"
Hey guys...hoping I can find some guys on here that are either mechanics or that have personally done this work before.

I bought a new rear upper ball joint. I also bought the new link arm (the large boomerang shaped part) because I figured it would be easier to replace the entire assembly and I'd know I'd have all new rubber bushings too.

I can't get the 3 bolts off the diff. It's just not happening. I've sprayed them down with PB over and over, let it sit for weeks, then I jack it up from the hitch to get some room to work and with a 21mm knucklebuster (which is all I can fit in there) the bolts aren't even budging. I'm afraid that I'm going to slip and strip the hex head if I put anymore ass into it.

How many hours should I allow a shop for this job? All the other bolts have been broken loose already. 3 hours max? Keep in mind, they don't have to press out the old ball joint to re-use the link arm. I've got all new parts to go in.

StephenE 05-25-2011 11:30 AM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"
Have you considered an easy out?

TJXJWJ 05-25-2011 02:08 PM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"
Easy out? That's only if the bolt head is broken or stripped...none of that has happend (yet). Besides, if were to break the bolt head off or strip it, I'd probably have to drop the entire axle to be able to drill and easy out the threaded part of the bolt.

Unless you and I are referring to two different things. An easy out to me is what you use when you've rendered the bolt head useless.

StephenE 05-25-2011 02:24 PM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"
Even though the bolt has not broke yet, you can still drill a hole down the center and use an easy out.

I do see your point about dropping the axle to drill it out.

TJXJWJ 05-25-2011 02:37 PM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"
Yeah, that's why I've pretty much decided I'm taking it in to have it done, although I RARELY do that. I have a shop near me that does good work, I just wanted to get an idea on time from someone here that's done it so I know I'm not over-paying for labor. I already have the parts and I know they are going to try to make their money somewhere...

StephenE 05-25-2011 02:50 PM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"
I hope it's cheaper than the exhaust manifold bolts. The drivers side cost me $250 in labor charges (I supplied the bolts and gasket). I like to do my own work as well, but there are some things I leave to the experts who do this on a daily basis.

TJXJWJ 05-26-2011 07:59 AM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"

TJXJWJ 05-27-2011 12:40 PM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"
Shop quoted me 2 hours yesterday...I think that's fair...taking it in next week.

cheapjeep 05-28-2011 07:52 PM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"
If you have access to a torch a little heat could do wonders. Also when you spray with Blaster its good to tap the bolts with a hammer.This fractures the rust and allows the penetrant to creep.Also unbolting the shocks might let everything droop enough to get an impact up there. Good luck bud.

TJXJWJ 05-28-2011 09:47 PM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"
Thanks Dave...first things first...your new sig pic is sweet! Your rig looks TOUGH. :thumbsup:

Normally, my next step would be heat...but call me a puss....I'm not getting a torch that close to the gas tank. Kinda freaks me out. I'm sure people do it everyday, but not this guy.

I hate taking it in for service, but I really do trust the place I'm taking it to, and $200 isn't THAT bad considering.

cheapjeep 05-28-2011 11:18 PM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"
Thanks Bud.Been there.Sometimes its better to say screw it let them do it:lol:

TJXJWJ 06-06-2011 08:20 AM

Re: The typical rear-end "thunk"
Well, got this done last week...should have done it AGES ago. Sooooo nice to not hear a noise from the rear when going over a bump...which is often the roads around here after the brutal winter we had. It's like driving in friggin Iraq. For 3 bills, they installed my rear upper link arm and ball joint, and bled the brakes while they were at it.

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