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-   -   LCA carnage (http://www.jeepgarage.org/f185/lca-carnage-29568.html)

Mr Chill 10-10-2011 11:15 PM

LCA carnage
 
2 Attachment(s)
Long story short, clevis bolt being stuck turned into a fiasco. The shop I trusted to break the bolt out couldn't, so they torched it out. That meant replacing the bushing. No problem, I had foreseen this and provided a MOOG replacement.

I get a call an hour after dropping the Jeep off and the manager tells me the bushing got stuck when it was halfway out. Like stuck stuck. They tried a press bit on it and it was so stuck the bit shattered and the control arm was now toast.

:eek::mad::wtf::mad::worried::mad::smh:

Of course the dealer wants $700+ for a Mopar lca, which is insanity. The only other options I've found readily available are Mevotech and Omix-Ada which are $150-200. Not incredibly excited about made in china being stamped anywhere near the Jeep but it'll have to do for now.

Here are pics of the dead lca.

soontobesrt 10-11-2011 09:26 AM

Re: LCA carnage
 
Looks nasty! Almost makes me think those bushings arent meant to be replaced rather the whole CA as an assembly. FWIW, I replaced my DS LCA with an Omix-Ada for like $150 when I sheered mine in half back in April. I recall them being a pretty reputable Jeep replacement mfg, so China or not, I wasnt too worried. Have about 5k+ miles on the new control arm and no issues so far. Do get a loud popping noise from that side but I believe it is something else non CA related.

Scottina06 10-11-2011 10:08 AM

Re: LCA carnage
 
i have an extra oem LCA.....not sure which side it is...but if your interested for $100...Ill pull it out and take a look.

paroxysym 10-11-2011 10:23 AM

Re: LCA carnage
 
how many miles were on the LCA before it needed replacement?

Mr Chill 10-15-2011 11:30 AM

Re: LCA carnage
 
I got a new lca for $144 shipped, it was the mevotech brand. After looking at pics, I decided both aftermarket brands were using the same bushings so I just found the best price I could. Time will tell how the bushings hold up but it bolted in with no problems and the alignment was spot-on after a 2nd round on the rack.

One thing to note is the ball joint came with virtually no grease in it and no fitting to grease it. Fortunately the boot was strong enough to be removed and replaced wthout tearing, so it got a liberal greasing before installation.

The original had 116k and the rear bushing was sagging and starting to dry rot. I was able to just replace that rear one on the passenger side as its clevis bolt popped right out. All the other bushings were still looking good though. The moog replacement has a metal sleeve that slips over the lca yoke whereas the oem and aftermarket lca's use a rubber slip-fit design. Easier to work with but probably wear faster? The yoke took some polishing before the moog would press on.

attilahooper 01-04-2012 01:35 PM

Re: LCA carnage
 
I'm reviving this thread cause of the good info and pics.

I'm replacing a blown SRT8 bilstein strut. Did a fairly close visual inspection today, after a nice mid-winter steam clean. Lower strut bushings look a little worn, not torn. Off-center/deformed enough to notice. Anyone have success pressing the bushings out ? Don't wanna make more work than I already have at this point.

cobrakillerta 01-09-2012 11:12 PM

Re: LCA carnage
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by attilahooper (Post 545362)
I'm reviving this thread cause of the good info and pics.

I'm replacing a blown SRT8 bilstein strut. Did a fairly close visual inspection today, after a nice mid-winter steam clean. Lower strut bushings look a little worn, not torn. Off-center/deformed enough to notice. Anyone have success pressing the bushings out ? Don't wanna make more work than I already have at this point.

I actually noticed the same thing on my drivers side LCA, the strut fork to LCA bushing seems to be worn/sagging.

I have an '06 WK Overland with 75k miles and currently have a bad clunk on my drivers side front end that I'm chasing down. The other day, while having a friend quickly move the steering wheel back & forth, I believed the clunk was coming from my left inner tie rod as I was hearing.feeling the clunk when I would grab the inner tie rod end boot. Today I installed Moog inner AND outer tie rods on BOTH sides of the truck and it did nothing at all, the clunk is still there!

Now I'm wondering if the strut fork bushing is worn enough that the strut fork may actually be touching the LCA and causing my clunk...

Are you experiencing any noises/clunks from your worn strut fork bushing?

attilahooper 01-10-2012 07:33 AM

Re: LCA carnage
 
hey cobra,

not sure if any clunk is coming from worn clevis bushing, but I'm 99% sure my passenger side SRT8 strut is fubar. I saw a significant amount of fluid covering and dripping from the bottom of the spring. As well as noticeable wheel hop and possible bottoming-out noise on that side.

I would imagine your clevis bushing would have to be ~really~ shot to make a loud noise. I used to have a volvo 242 that had the huge rear trailing arm bushings which were known to go bad after 100k+. Sometimes you can see those old cars crabbing down the road. Those bushings were absolutely toast, as in material missing, rotted etc, and it made a muted clunk on acceleration.

Somehow I'm doubting teh clevis bushing problem. I could be wrong though.

wkearney99 01-18-2012 10:07 AM

Re: LCA carnage
 
So any chance of getting the factory bushings out and replacing them without the carnage? Or should I just cut to the chase and order a whole LCA aftermarket?

attilahooper 01-18-2012 10:27 AM

Re: LCA carnage
 
bump

Quote:

Originally Posted by wkearney99 (Post 555194)
So any chance of getting the factory bushings out and replacing them without the carnage? Or should I just cut to the chase and order a whole LCA aftermarket?

Yeah, I'm curious if anyone was successful with a bushing tool. You know, where there's a will there's a way. I am without doubt that judicious application of the sawzall to collapse the metal sleeves of the bushing would work. Whether it is worth the time is another question.

wkearney99 01-18-2012 12:51 PM

Re: LCA carnage
 
What seems to be a easier & quicker route is to just replace the whole eff'ng thing. $147 for a complete LCA, bushings and all. $180 total to overnight it here. And that's still less than the cost of the bushing sets; without the arm or ball joint!

Passenger side LCA clevis bolt is also stuck, but I don't need to replace that axle right now. So I'll just use some spring compressors to pull out the strut without removing the clevis fork. That's how I got the driver's side out. Hopefully that'll also work on the passenger side.

Advice to anyone having to do a CV joint replacement is to seriously consider doing a replacement of just the joint. While the whole shaft is pretty inexpensive, the hassle of pulling out the clevis bolt greatly complicates things. If my LCA bushings didn't look like they were shot I'd seriously consider just disassembling one side of my new shaft and slide it through the clevis fork. But considering it was a loose boot that caused this one to die I'm hesitant to run the risk of wrecking that one too.

So I'm going to do the whole lower LCA instead.

attilahooper 01-18-2012 12:58 PM

Re: LCA carnage
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by wkearney99 (Post 555288)
$147 for a complete LCA, bushings and all. $180 total to overnight it here. And that's still less than the cost of the bushing sets; without the arm or ball joint!

No chit ?! screw the bushings then

Quote:

Passenger side LCA clevis bolt is also stuck, but I don't need to replace that axle right now. So I'll just use some spring compressors to pull out the strut without removing the clevis fork. That's how I got the driver's side out.
That's good to know, I wrecked a clevis bolt already. Others have had it easy I've heard.

Quote:

If my LCA bushings didn't look like they were shot I'd seriously consider just disassembling one side of my new shaft and slide it through the clevis fork.
You wouldn't happen to have a pic would ya ? Trying to figure out whether mine are toast. The rubber looks fine to me.

GL


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