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Front Driveshaft

23K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  WKHoneyBadger 
#1 ·
I have a 05 GC w/5.7 hemi i pulled the front driveshaft to replace the starter and noticed the u-joints on the driveshaft were binding up a little bit. My question is, has anyone had the u-joints replaced without replacing the whole assembly.
 
#2 ·
It is non servicable.

Also just keep in mind (maybe you already are considering this). the relationship between the transfercase and the front diff doesnt change (beyond movement in mounts). Both are solidly mounted (unlike a straight axle like the rear), so if your really flexing the joints beyond normal use then yes you likely will have some binding in the joint. They pretty much ride in the same spot at all times.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply....The needle bearings in the joint are def shot...ordered a new shaft yesterday, but I might take the old one to a driveshaft shop and see if they can do anything with it...Really a poor design that you can't replace the u-joint and on top of that no grease fitting.
 
#4 ·
I saw a thread recently where someone swapped out the u-joints. Perhaps it was just the rear driveshaft though?

How much did the new front one cost ya?
 
#6 ·
Greetings! I have just finished ordering the cv joint for the rear (tc end) of the front propeller shaft. Dorman 932-303 . Found 6 bolts loose and grease flung out onto body. Symptoms while driving were a strong resonant vibration between 30&40 mph and a crunching feeling when under load. Some squeaking too. Never considered that the front u-joint could be bad, since it has no play and looks tight. I've heard many others claiming that these cv joints are inferior to u-joints. I believe it!
 
#8 ·
Greetings! I have just finished ordering the cv joint for the rear (tc end) of the front propeller shaft. Dorman 932-303 . Found 6 bolts loose and grease flung out onto body. Symptoms while driving were a strong resonant vibration between 30&40 mph and a crunching feeling when under load. Some squeaking too. Never considered that the front u-joint could be bad, since it has no play and looks tight. I've heard many others claiming that these cv joints are inferior to u-joints. I believe it!

Actually in the case of the WK front driveshaft CV joints > U joints.

The downside to U joints is they only have so much free turning angle, there comes a point where they begin to bind (like using a universal socket, if you have it cocked at a pretty good angle it doesnt do a good job of transfering the torque through the joint).

CV joint style eliminates the drag of a u-joint, the combine with the fact that unlike the WJ this driveshaft doesnt move with suspension articulation it was a good choice to send power to the front differential.

BTW, for what its worth, the rear driveshaft is also non servicable, be prepaired to call around to locate another one if you attempt to repair it. The only post I have seen on here recently reguarding overhauling the rear driveshaft ended in replacing the driveshaft as the yolk was broken.
 
#9 ·
I was able to find alot of threads where guys were inquiring about swapping out their front driveshaft to one with a u-joint at the transfer case end, because the good ole u-joint is much more reliable. I went to a driveline shop and the old vet there said right-away that there would be a problem matching a u-joint mount to the flange on the NV-245, so sounds like it would not be that easy to custom build something, unless you have some time and money. If you are often off-road, then you had better buy a few spare cv-joints. Noticed that "driveshaft.com carry a product made in China(I think), part # ME807 for only $70. It is fairly easy to replace these. Just remove clip at end of shaft, and cv-joint can easily be tapped off of splines.
 
#10 ·
Just replaced the cv-joint at the transfer case end of the front driveshaft. Dorman supplies a kit, part no 932-303 , which fits my 2005 grand cherokee ltd. What happened to the original was, that the six mounting bolts securing the cv-joint to the transfer case got loose somehow, and all the grease was flung out of the joint. Once this happens, the joint doesn't last long when friction and heat destroys it.
Had to use a puller to get the old joint off, and a bit of a pain to pack all that grease into the bearing. You also have to use liquid gasket on both sides to seal everything nicely, without getting any in the bearing. Kind of a messy job. The cv can also be replaced without removing the driveshaft, so a hoist would be nice.
Moral of the story is, make sure your mounting bolts are always tight. Thread locker should be used.
 
#11 ·
I just replaced my starter wire on my '05 Hemi 5.7L, so I had to pull the drive shaft and ended up replacing the transmission mount and cross member bolts.

Does anyone know the torque specs for the front drive shaft?
I can't find them anywhere, and I read in one of the replies that you have to use thread locker on all the bolts?

I had a nightmare of a time getting those bolts out, I actually used lithium grease on all of them, but I haven't torqued yet so if I have to pull each bolt out to use locktite I'll have to do it.
 
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