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NEW Best 0-60 MPH! 4.38 seconds!

4K views 31 replies 10 participants last post by  Tim@NCTSLLC 
#1 ·
That's right, just clicked off a new best 0-60 in 4.38 seconds, this knocked off 4/10's.

With a little less fuel, and drop the spare, I think we can get a 4.25 second time.

The trick? Pulled that little pink fuse. Toggle switch going in this week, and off to the track. I think we are looking at a 13 second or even possibly a high 12 second 1.4 mile, we shall see soon.

When I get my camera, I will add the pic for the proof.

The new valve body was shifting even harder, it is certainly well worth the $325 for the firmness in the shifts and reduction of shift times.
 
#4 ·
Oh hell yes it came off the line harder, thought I was going to eat my gauge pod! It didn't do that at the track in St. Louis.

I can't believe I didn't think of pulling it up there. Oh well, hopefully Norwalk has a test and tune sometime this week while it is nice and cool here.

If it knocked off 4/10's in my 0-60 mph, I can't wait to see how much it knocks off in the whole 1/4 mile!
 
#6 ·
Well, don't go out and beat my time before I set a new record!

It is in the Power Distribution center, the one closest to the fire wall. It is a pink 30 amp cartridge fuse in cavity 17.

I will be setting up a toggle switch this week, I will post up wiring info and some pics of it when I get it done.

That way I can just flip the switch and GO!

When pulled, your dash will light up, with the ABS, ESP, and BAS lights, meaning it is all OFF!
 
#5 ·
wow that is great Tim. I cant wait to here the results. Which valve bidy did you go with?
 
#9 ·
The valve body is from Sharadon Performance in Minnesota, they have been doing Mopars forever, all 3 generations of Hemi's, and the Ram trucks for years.

Mine is the prototype for the 5.7 and they nailed it right out of the box.

$325 including shipping. There is a $500 core charge on your stock valve body to make sure they get it back.

Of course you can pull yours and send it in and they will ship one right back without the core charge.

Talk to Denny or Jerry and they can hook you up.
 
#7 ·
Awesome info Tim! Thanks
 
#11 ·
Ahh shardon.. Ive dealt with jerry many times in the past when i had my 04 ram hemi. Sweet thanks.
 
#12 ·
Do you know if there's any possible ill effects to the transfer case Tim?

For instance, Nissan R32 GTR's we could simply interupt power to the ABS/4WD fuse to get rear drive only, but when we first did it with R33 GTR it fried the transfer case pretty quickly. We worked out we needed to remove the front tailshaft and all was happy again.
 
#17 ·
I don't think so, it seems perfectly happy. On these, the torque management is primarily controlled via ABS and application of the brakes. If things really get out of hand, and the system sees yaw and pitch as in a slide, then it will apply throttle body control to kill power in the engine.

Torque mangement does not have anything to do with the actual transfer case operation.

Funny you mention the front drive shaft, on the SRT-8 Cherokee, many were pulling the front driveshaft for dyno testing, and the switch for the so called "2 wheel drive mod", and it has been shown not to be the bast thing for the T-Case as it leaves it with uneven loading and can really mess it up if left that way for any lenght of time.
 
#14 ·
Sending you a pm.
 
#15 ·
Well, I have four 5.7 Cherokee tubing sets bent up that I will be working on welding out the flanges and mounting tabs over the next week or so, anyone who wants to get into some boost just let me know!
 
#19 · (Edited)
Other than hauling butt, it felt no different. Actually it felt crisper through the acceleration and shifting. Keep in mind that the brakes are designed to provide normal function even with a total failure of the ABS system, so braking on dry pavement is no different.

I think part of the reason for this, is that the designers obviously default conservative which is good for the everyday situation. We have all wheel drive, so traction on dry pavement is not an issue. Where the conservatisim comes from, is the fact that without freewheeling front tires, it is much more difficult for the system to actually determine the true road condition.

A free wheeling front tire will give an accurate reading of slip with the speed sensors because they are not driven. With AWD, you could potentially be spinning the front tires so it has to take that into consideration.

I am putting down a lot more power than an N/A vehicle is, and I don't have any concerns, with N/A power, it will have a positive effect on your times, but you don't have near the torque that I do that could possibly cause an issue. I think you will be fine and pick up a little on your time betterment.
 
#21 ·
Nope, no different at all.

I did notice that I no longer get the ABS calibration cycle that I normally get the first time brakes are applied!

That has always annoyed me when it does that.
 
#23 ·
Hey Tim nice runs. Some of the SRT guys pull the ABS pump fuse at the track and have found inproved times also. Tim missed your call this weekend I'll give you a ring Thursday.

Tom.
 
#26 ·
I pulled the ABS fuse last night and took it for a flogging, I could feel a marginal improvement off the line due to it not cutting power when the front wheels slip. As I've said before though, a .2 improvement at the start will equate to a .4 improvement at the end of a 1/4 mile.
But I still feel that torque management was there, as I could still feel a small kick at around 40mph or so....
 
#27 ·
I tried it yesteday also with the abs fuse pulled. The only problem was that it was raining, when i punched it off the line, i spun the tires quite a bit. I'm gonna try it again when it stops raining.
 
#29 ·
That was at Gateway International on the Illinois side of the river.
 
#30 ·
NEW Best 0-60 MPH! 4.18 seconds!

I was out with Escape last night playing with the Jeep, and I set a new best 0-60mph time of 4.18 seconds. This was with both me and Escape in the vehicle so he can vouch for it as well.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Hmmm, It looks like the ABS fuse location is different dependent on model year.

2005-2007 = fuse 21 (What about fuse 4??)
2008-2010 = fuse 17

In looking at the diagram in the following link, for the 2005-2007 vehicles it shows 2 locations. Fuse 4 = ABS pump and fuse 21 = ABS valves. In the 2008-2010 vehicles it shows fuse 17 = ABS pump.

So, in the 2005 - 2007, do you pull both fuses??

http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_fuses.htm
 
#32 ·
Hmmm, It looks like the ABS fuse location is different dependent on model year.

2005-2007 = fuse 21 (What about fuse 4??)
2008-2010 = fuse 17

In looking at the diagram in the following link, for the 2005-2007 vehicles it shows 2 locations. Fuse 4 = ABS pump and fuse 21 = ABS valves. In the 2008-2010 vehicles it shows fuse 17 = ABS pump.

So, in the 2005 - 2007, do you pull both fuses??

http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_fuses.htm
No just pull the ABS pump fuse.
 
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