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-   -   First Oil Change (http://www.jeepgarage.org/f108/first-oil-change-36815.html)

yodamel 02-06-2012 10:28 AM

First Oil Change
 
mileage on car: 755

removed break-in oil and replaced with Castrol Edge (Synthetic) 5w-20.

special thanks to the Robot that didn't understand torque-specs on the factory installed Oil Filter. I busted a knuckle removing it.:slapfight:

vicpick58 02-06-2012 10:41 AM

Re: First Oil Change
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by yodamel (Post 568444)
mileage on car: 755

removed break-in oil and replaced with Castrol Edge (Synthetic) 5w-20.

special thanks to the Robot that didn't understand torque-specs on the factory installed Oil Filter. I busted a knuckle removing it.:slapfight:

I have had the same thing with several different new vehicles over the years.

I think that sometimes, whoever puts the oil filter on the first time does not bother to coat the rubber gasket with oil.

J13ntv 02-06-2012 11:36 AM

Re: First Oil Change
 
I had the dealer do my first free oil change so I didn't have an overly tight oil filter luckily.. haha

Regardless though, check out this thread for some oil insight. Ive learned a lot over the past week speaking to Brian at BNDAutomotive and am trying to help pass along what I have read/learned to the Jeep Community regarding lubricants and why they are actually an important part that people need to be more informed about..

http://www.jeepgarage.org/showpost.p...84&postcount=4

yodamel 02-06-2012 04:41 PM

Re: First Oil Change
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by J13ntv (Post 568491)
I had the dealer do my first free oil change so I didn't have an overly tight oil filter luckily.. haha

Regardless though, check out this thread for some oil insight. Ive learned a lot over the past week speaking to Brian at BNDAutomotive and am trying to help pass along what I have read/learned to the Jeep Community regarding lubricants and why they are actually an important part that people need to be more informed about..

http://www.jeepgarage.org/showpost.p...84&postcount=4

I wonder if they tested Castrol Synthetic? I used it in both of my BMW's and it showed minimal breakdown between regular oil changes. I have always used Castrol oil for many years.

J13ntv 02-06-2012 05:29 PM

Re: First Oil Change
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by yodamel (Post 568723)
I wonder if they tested Castrol Synthetic? I used it in both of my BMW's and it showed minimal breakdown between regular oil changes. I have always used Castrol oil for many years.

Not sure to tell you the truth. I'll shoot him an e-mail now and ask. If you also want to ask any questions direct, Brian's e-mail at BNDAutomotive for Quantum Blue is sales@bndautomotive.com. He goes the extra mile and a half to answer/explain any questions and knows about 100x more then I'll ever be able to try to explain about the oil vs oil debates.

Also I think that its not necessarily that the castrol is breaking down to fast, It should hold up to what the recommend oil change factor is, its the lab testing that illustrates Quantum Blue is being more protective and causing less wear within the engine too. What the charts/lab tests show is the content of specific metals in the oil sample you send in, as well as being able to see how much protection is left before its no longer doing its job. Less wear=longer life. For the examples of the Mopar, and Mobil 1 oil vs Quantum Blue lab tests in the thread that I linked to, Quantum Blue had 3x the amount of miles on it, and still had less engine wear. At least that's what I derive from the info. Lastly, not based on my own experience yet, but others on the internet, ACES IV fuel additive/lubricant and Quantum Blue Oil, used together, significantly diminish and/or eliminate the Hemi tick, you might or might not be experiencing.

yodamel 02-07-2012 08:44 AM

Re: First Oil Change
 
I'm definitely experiencing that tick, and it partly diminished when I put in the synthetic oil, but I am going to try that ACES IV additive and see if it also helps.
Thanks for the tip.

J13ntv 02-07-2012 10:30 AM

Re: First Oil Change
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by yodamel (Post 569170)
I'm definitely experiencing that tick, and it partly diminished when I put in the synthetic oil, but I am going to try that ACES IV additive and see if it also helps.
Thanks for the tip.

Tell him Jorde from JeepGarage sent you over and you'll get a 10% discount. (And no I do not get anything for you mentioning me, you save 10% however, lol) ACES IV is usually the first step many people take, as it adds necessary lubrication to the fuel that fuel no longer provides..


Heres the response below that I received from Brian at BNDAutomotive (Sales@bndautomotive.com) regarding the Castrol.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~

Castrol Syntec is a Group III engine oil and is an ok oil. Still suffers from the same solubility issues that Group IV oils (typical synthetics) suffer with. Also more aggressive on seals. Very few people really use it and not for very long typically. Will be similar to Mobil 1 in how it functions.

Here is one example I have from an FJ 40 Toyota Land Cruiser with 3,854 miles on it. Notice the lead content at 8 ppm and the chromium too at 8 ppm.

Castrol Syntec 0W-30
Filter: Toyota dealership filter #90915-YZZD3
Oil change interval: 6,207 km / 3,854 mi

Fe: 12
Chr: 8
Al: 2
Cu: 1
Pb: 8
Si: 29
Na: 11
K: 4
Zi: 838
Mg: 421
P: 866
Ba: 1

All other values "0." Trend for wear metals and additive levels are consistent with the last run of Castrol Syntec 0W-30.

FT-IR Analysis:

Sulf UFM#: 24
Oxid UFM#: 17
Nitr UFM#: 15

Physical Properties:

Viscosity at +100 C: 11.25 cSt
TBN: 5
Coolant: 0.0
Fuel: 0.6
Water:0.9

The thing people don’t really understand is that the base stock is only really 50% of the story although the volatility of it is tanatmount. Syntec is 17% reactive under heat….QuantumBlue is 1.5 to 3% reactive! The rest of it is what additives do they put in it and what type of additives. ZDDP is important for anti-rust and scuff. Phosphorous is really important for anti-scuff too. Magnesium is really important as well but not too much Magnesium either. 421 Magnesium is really too much! Also, it is designed to try and work with the widest amount of vehicles and so the compounds are for the widest variety of uses. We get specific so that it is the best it can be for that vehicle and how it is used. It wouldn’t be the best in another vehicle as it would be blended wrong. Application matters and so does the compounds that have to be assembled matter as well.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~

J13ntv 02-07-2012 10:37 AM

Re: First Oil Change
 
Also to add I posted this in another relevant thread but in-case you didn't see it regarding the hemi tick...





~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~From Brian:

The Hemi Tick is a typical problem for many people with 5.7L and 6.1L hemi engines. We don’t have enough experience on what the 6.4 will be like, but I believe it probably will suffer similar issues. The oil that we design for the 5.7L VVT Eagle engine that you have is a 7.5w23 QuantumBlue HP Competition Formula 5.7L VVT Custom Hemi Blend. It is designed for all the passages of the engine and provides more film strength for the engine than the typical mineral or synthetic oils that you get from off the shelf or from the dealer. The base stock is specifically ours, we add more zinc and phosphorous, more magnesium and calcium carbonate in it to protect this engine far better than typical lubricants.

Remember that the Hemi tick consists of 3 separate noises . 1) the injectors make noise due to lack of lubricity in the fuel. ACES IV addresses that. 2) Intake and especially exhaust valves are ticking against the valve seats because they have no cushion left from the fuel. No more lead (obviously gone since Jan 1 1986) and not even any sulfur….that is a high pressure lubricant. Mix that with 10% ethyl alcohol and you have a really bad mix. Hammering basically metal to metal. 3) the short piston skirt on the hemi causes the piston to rattle in the bores in idle. This is why they add the moly coat to the skirt so that it will quiet down. As the engine gets some miles on it, the piston slap will get louder.

ACES IV takes care of #1 and #2, and QuantumBlue takes care of #3.

kkreit01 02-07-2012 04:00 PM

Re: First Oil Change
 
Kiss your powertrain warranty good bye if using this "Blue" stuff. Never heard of it. For some real oil geeks, check out BITOG.

J13ntv 02-07-2012 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkreit01 (Post 569446)
Kiss your powertrain warranty good bye if using this "Blue" stuff. Never heard of it. For some real oil geeks, check out BITOG.

Why do you think your voiding your powertrain warranty? It's an API rated oil, which meets or exceeds the ILSAC-GF4 rating. Just to clarify your misunderstandings, Quantum Blue by bndautomotive is actually a ILSAC-GF5 API rated oil. It's rated higher then Mopar, so before you go throwing out claims with no backing please read about the products first. Everyone starts somewhere huh? Just because they dont have Exxon backing them and call themselves Mobil 1 doesnt mean it's not a great and/or better product. Chrysler cant tell you what oil to run they can only recommend what oil weight to use. Otherwise everyone running anything other then mopar is voiding warranties which is incorrect.

yodamel 02-07-2012 08:31 PM

Re: First Oil Change
 
wow they have this down to a science! Thanks for sharing the info

just a couple of notes: I don't neccessarily agree with his statement that not many people use Castrol. I think their sales will easily refute that and it is the oil recommended by BMW and Daimler Benz. I have personally used only Castrol for many years and so did my father.

However, I am impressed with the information and stats provided with Quantum Blue, and I am tempted to try it myself.

I have heard a lot about Royal Purple also. Does he have any stats or info testing that brand?

Thanks.

J13ntv 02-07-2012 09:39 PM

Re: First Oil Change
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by yodamel (Post 569609)
wow they have this down to a science! Thanks for sharing the info

just a couple of notes: I don't neccessarily agree with his statement that not many people use Castrol. I think their sales will easily refute that and it is the oil recommended by BMW and Daimler Benz. I have personally used only Castrol for many years and so did my father.

However, I am impressed with the information and stats provided with Quantum Blue, and I am tempted to try it myself.

I have heard a lot about Royal Purple also. Does he have any stats or info testing that brand?

Thanks.

Heres some info when I asked about royal purple myself, a couple of days ago.. I asked why its in the same price category as Quantum Blue, etc and what makes it have that type of value. I didn't request any lab tests but assume he has at least one.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
Royal Purple contains Molybdenum Disulfide and Boron. This is their “special” Synerlec technology. The engines that we have seen the inside of using RP look like Black or Grape jelly slime all over the inside. They are also a poly alpha olefin based oil and aggressive on seals while their solubility or suspension of additive package is dropped. Just like running Mobil 1. Some of the samples I have seen from our cars running it have been very discouraging! We solve it by giving them the correct compounds without any MOLY or BORON.


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