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ENFORCER'S Oil Change Guide for a 2011 VM Motori CRD

34K views 122 replies 37 participants last post by  BobT 
#1 ·
I changed the oil in My 2011 Australian Spec CRD today and did a full write up with pictures for everyone to enjoy. Please do not try this at home if you are not familiar with this type of work.
I am open to questions or comments on how it can be improved.
 

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#4 ·
I have never had a problem with telling my dealer that I do the oil changes, it has saved me a fortune. I will do the oil every 5,000km.
Dealers have now way they can make you get oil changes with them, as long as the filter and oil are spec and you do it according to the logbook (every 10k km) they can only charge you to kick the tyres. My servicing with Ford was $450 with oil change or $90 without. The oil and filter were about $100. They also use Castrol oil and charge a bomb for it. I will also be doing all the replacement parts for major servicing, being a mechanic (not for 20 years), I get trade pricing on parts.
It is very rewarding doing work on your car, the money savings are just a bonus for me.
 
#6 ·
Nice write up, the last car I changed the oil on was my 1978 HZ kingswood 4.2 ltr V8. I miss that old girl. We all used work on our cars at uni. Over tightening the sump plug was the most common (and costly) error some guys made. I'll leave it to the experts these days.
 
#7 ·
I have US gas model, however +rep for the great PDF writeup to help others. Thank you
 
#8 ·
I changed the oil in My 2011 Australian Spec CRD today and did a full write up with pictures for everyone to enjoy. Please do not try this at home if you are not familiar with this type of work.
I am open to questions or comments on how it can be improved.
Mal, Thanks for the great write up, contributions like this really help other owners.

Maybe you should note that the engine should not be started for 15 minutes after changing oil, (see WK2 Jeeps oil change guide).
 
#9 ·
Thanks Enforcer,
well done and much appreciated.....

I intend to supply the dealer with the oil if they will agree (down the track a bit for us as we don't get the JGC until the end of this month, fingers X).

My choice for the oil is Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W-30 - readily available to me from Repco or Supercheap.

I noticed your Nulon oil selection and wondered if you had considered the Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-30 EURO Engine Oil - there is a slight difference in the spec and approvals.

Our 3l Patrol has had 5k oil and filters changes all its life and I am looking forward to 10K intervals.....
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the feedback guys. It was surprisingly easy to change the oil, I was expecting a tougher job. It make a huge difference having the 27mm socket to undo the filter housing, this could be a problem if you do not have this.
5,000km is a short oil change interval, but due to the many short trips we make, it is worthwhile.

@Mendo - I know how easy it is to strip a sump bolt and what a pain it is to repair, especially with alloy sumps. Hopefully people reading this guide knows how much pressure to put on the sump plug to ensure a good seal.

@hiland - I did read this, but I made sure that oil was in the sump before starting. As long as there is enough oil in the sump, you are fine. I guess in sub arctic conditions oil could take 15 mins to travel the 1m from the top to the bottom of the motor, but if you can see oil on the dipstick, then you are fine to start. That is why I said to check for oil before starting.
@John47 - As long as the oil is ACEA C3-08 standard approved, you can use whatever you want. The Nulon oil you listed is only ACEA A3 (not that I have a clue the difference) so I stuck with what Jeep recommend as far as the approved certifications. I initially was going to use the Euro oil, but was pointed out the difference. The Shell oil you listed looks to have the right certifications.
 
#11 ·
My feeling is either of the Nulon oils would be good, particularly if it is getting dropped every 5k.
There has been a bit posted about extended service life in Europe as against our recommended change interval and I did a bit of digging around and found this: http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/for...e-504-507-oils-fsi-tsi-tdi-engines-47140.html
It relates to VW diesel engines and VW specs for oil and particularly the late model engines similar to the VM CRD. It does go on a bit but I found interesting stuff in there.

It seems to be critical that the right oil goes in these things.....
 
#12 ·
Excellent guide, thank you for posting.

Have you noticed any difference with the Nulon oil compared to what was in the sump from Delivery?

Quieter / Noisier startup?

Difference in fuel economy?
 
#13 · (Edited)
@John, while I agree about both being suitable, I figure if I had problems Jeep may use it as a weasel clause to deny a warranty repair, so I went with what it specified.

Too early to tell Swampy, I only did it yesterday and did not drive it, only ran it on the driveway.
My wife would have NFI about any difference. It did sound less diesel when it warmed up, so I guess it may make a small difference.
 
#16 ·
@John, while I agree about both being suitable, I figure if I had problems Jeep may use it as a weasel clause to deny a warranty repair, so I went with what it specified.
I definitely second that!!

As I noted before I intend to supply my own oil to the dealer (Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W-30 - if he will agree) and will request that the oil spec be noted on the service docket.
 
#17 ·
The oil was dirty and looked a lot older than the 6,000km I had on the car. It is not uncommon for a new motor to have such dirty oil. I am no expert with modern diesels, but the oil did have a burnt smell as well.

@BobT, I read somewhere on one of the forums that said that the car is not entirely metric, but as mentioned I have both AF and metric tools, so it did not affect me.

I take your point on the copper washer, and did look in my box of bits for a new one, but had none. This is why I stressed to clean the washer, plug and sump to ensure a clean seal. In any ordinary situation, I would have replaced it. Funny the dealer did not mention it when I bought the filters, and also why they did not come with one. After I get a bit more feedback, I will modify the document to keep it up to date. It was a bit late after I saw the washer, but that is the fun part of discovering how things are done.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for that, however I would like to add a couple of points:

  1. I understand the Jeep is metric although I haven't worked on one (yet). The US auto industry, military and aerospace industry has gone metric. It seems their government think the rest of the population are not exactly rocket scientists and therefore not yet ready :D
  2. The copper washer should be changed. That was standard practice on my other cars. It crushes and acts as a seal. However, in a pinch I have used old ones. I will definitely leak without any washer at all which happened once when I had a dealer do the oil change
  3. Few people wear out engines these days but nevertheless I'm paranoid about using the right grade and highest API rating oil I can get but I ignore the advertising hype.
 
#20 ·
Bob, do not take my word as gospel, as I only read it on the "Internet".
I also did not try both, I just used what fitted.
 
#26 ·
#27 · (Edited)
Have to ask the question.. manual states

"that meet the requirements of Chrysler Material
Standard MS-11106, and that are approved to
Mercedes Benz MB 229.31 or MB 229.51 and
ACEA C3."

So in the electronic manual it outlines AND not OR.. I only have 5 pieces of photocopied paper..

so this says that MS-11106 is more a restrictive set than "MB 229.31 or MB 229.51 and
ACEA C3". So does anybody know what additional requirements does MS-11106 require?

BTW Mobil1 Esp confirms meeting MS-11106.. not sure where to buy it btw.

http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-30.aspx

Something like this without contacts..

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mobil-1-...ccessories&hash=item2a0fa7c90a#ht_2462wt_1163
 
#28 ·
I went down this path as well......and ended with the decision to go with the Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5w-30,
a) spec states it complies with MS-11106
and b) it is readily available - to me at least.
 
#30 ·
Unfortunately I am still in theory mode.....having been unloaded in Aus on 10 February, our Jeep is in the clutches of AQIS at Port Brisbane and with no projected clearance date.
Mid March estimate for delivery by dealer, then we have to accumulate the oil change km before I actually need to buy oil - there's enough stuff to be fitted on the garage bench already waiting now... we've got a 4,500km return trip to Vic with the van in the offing as soon as we can get hitched up so shouldn't take long to get to an oil change.
The oil is on the shelf at Supercheap at $75/5l and within 5 min drive for me. I might make some phone calls around the time but not worth travelling too far to save mb 5 or 10 dollars. I'm more than happy with the Shell especially as it complies with VW, BMW, and MB long life requirements.
 
#31 ·
John do you intend doing your own oil changes? or just supply the oil.

I was going to supply but I can easily change oil just worried if something goes wrong in the engine, how do I prove I used the correct oil at the correct intervals?

If supplied I hope they use what I supply... maybe getting overly worried for nothing..
 
#32 ·
Yep, I could also easily change the oil, but long term I am looking to establish a relationship with the service department so happy to invest a bit towards that, so will give the service away but supply the oil. (bearing in mind they haven't agreed yet!!)
I am a bit cynical and have a nagging doubt that the dealer will have a "one size fits most" approach to the oil - if I supply the best I can get and have it documented on the service record then hopefully I'll have covered all bases.
fingers x
 
#33 ·
Enforcer.
I have just drained my 3.0, about 9.0L. It had its first change at 5600k, done by a dealer now 10400 but has been towing. I have had problems determining the oil level when cold as it always appears to be on the min mark. Reinsert and it reads overfull. Rang dealer this arvo and was told sump capacity inc filter is 9.8L.
Yours is the best advice so far but it would be nice to have it in the owner doco.
 
#35 ·
I'm as paranoid as anyone about correct oils in my baby but then I don't know anyone who has ever worn out a modern engine, so perhaps I'm a bit over the top. Anyway, diesels have a reputation for keeping on keeping on. This is because the fuel itself has lubricating properties that petrol doesn't. So I wouldn't be too concerned about the dealer using the right oil provided he is reputable and Chrysler accredited. Nevertheless, if I'm doing my own oil changes, the oil will be on spec or better regardless of the price.
 
#36 ·
First change was after a lot of short haul and then extended towing, we were interstate and I was not confident about DIY because of uncertainty of how much oil was in it. Enforcers capacity for his vehicle and mine are vastly different, 8.1L to 9.8L I carry a 6.0L drain pan. If you are capable of doing basic DIY then dealers are for warranty work only but after this latest effort I wonder. As I have said some concrete reference material would work wonders.
 
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