WK audio upgrade Questions
So last week I traded my 98 ZJ in and upgraded to an 08 WK!
I had an upgraded system in my older Jeep, and now that I have the money I would like to upgrade my current system once again.
I got the new pioneer deh-p9400BH head unit and took my kicker cvx12L7 sub/amp combo from my old jeep and am installing that in my new one.
My question comes with the speakers. I would like to upgrade the from 6x9's the 3.5's in the dash and then the 6.5' in the rear doors last. I have seen that the 6x9' mounting depth is only 3 1/16" which is pretty shallow, most 6x9's don't fit.
My questions are:
1) If i chose a 6x9" speaker with a mounting depth of 3 3/16" can i add a spacer to allow for the additional mounting depth without having to modify the door panel. Basically, if I add a 1/2" spacer or something, will the door panel not fit because the speaker is sitting too tall? Also, all the spacers I have seen have been 1" or more. Do they make 1/2" spacers for 6x9 speakers?
2) If I do not go with a 6x9 but a component 6.5" system do I have to disable the 3.5" dash speakers? I'd rather just keep everything the same configuration, but add some "depth" or clarity to my system.
3) I am not familiar at all with the new Jeep, how to take it apart etc. I did most of the audio installation myself on my ZJ. I didn't worry about breaking anything or scratching because it was older. I do with my new one. I'd like to keep it as clean as possible. I saw the door trim removal guide on wkjeeps.com. Is it hard or relatively simple?
4) Since I have the stock sound system (non-BA system) i assume I do not have a dedicated speaker amp. Is this correct? I have no plans to add one, but if I do in the future, I would plan on taking power/ground from my existing monoblock amp lines. If i do this, where would be a good location for a 4 channel amp.
Anyways, I think thats about it for now. Thanks for the help guys!
Re: WK audio upgrade Questions
For fitting a large 6x9 in the front door, see my thread in this section entitled "Fitting Infinty Kappa 6x9's in the Front Doors", that will tell you what you need to mod in the door to get a good set in there. I would check out WKJeeps.com and look over the stock wireing for what you have to give you an idea on what speakers are run in parrell and which ones are not so when you go to set it all yup you have matched impedences. Alot times the in a factory non-amplified system the front dash and door speakers are high impendence wired in parrell to match the factory headunits tolerenace on the front driven channel, while the back typically have the the whole rear channels to themselves. As far as the the door panel removeal, it is not that bad, but you need to be careful and go buy the clips to replace before you put it back on. If it were me, I'd run a good four channel amp with the front 6x9's on two channels, x-over at 300-250Hz low pass, and the front 3.5 and rear 6.5 wiried in parrell going to the other two channels at full range with the front 3.5's running a passive high pass filter at 300-350Hz. Then I would get an Infinity Basslink for the sub portion, with an 80Hz low pass on it. Setup a power/ground distribution block back there maybe in the flase floor area and you have taps for the amp and Basslink. You use the pre-outs and remote from the four channel amp for a good clean signal to the Basslink. I have the Basslink and all Infinity Kappas in my WK, and the Basslink is perfect to me for bass, while the Kappas did really well with the factory Boston amp mine came with, but they do eat quite a bit of power. I probably would have gotten a little better fidelity buy going with Infinity Reference Series instead for the all the main speakers, but I wanted to do this only once since it is a pain to tear off all the door panels and a-pillars and such, and the Kappas are way more robust than the Reference series, so they should last much, much longer. It is easier to always add an amp than to change out the speakers again too:)
Re: WK audio upgrade Questions
[QUOTE=mosier;596606 Then I would get an Infinity Basslink for the sub portion, with an 80Hz low pass on it. Setup a power/ground distribution block back there[/QUOTE]
I'm getting ready to strip the wires on all my 12v cig adapter accessories and wire them into a distribution block hidden under the dash. This way, I can hide all the cables for the phone charger, xm radio, and radar detector and give the console a much cleaner look.
Can you recommend a good distro block that is also fused? Im thinking of going with the Red-Dee-2 Connect in line 4-way power splitter for $17.50 in lieu of making my own.
I've been through 3 Basslinks in the past 4 years and doubt I'll ever waste the $$ again. They aren't expensive, and they sound ok but they've been nothing but fickle POS's to me. None of the enclosed sub/amp products can deal with their own internal heat issues, IMO their minimal heatsinks aren't capable of cooling and there is no ventilation. I've dissected each basslink, and found a lot of problematic areas they need to address. Also, your basslink may advertise dual 10" speakers, which is false. There is 1 10" on the front, with a 10" speaker baffle on the rear of the box. I have my 12y.o daughter soldering much better than what I've seen internally in the basstink.
They are a great form factor for a low real estate system which is the best thing going for it. Right now I'm building a 4-1/8"TD x 5-1/16"BD x 16-5/16"W x 9-1/16"H MDF box to house a shallow mount Rockford Fosgate prime 10" R2 series 200w RMS with an MB Quart Formula FX1.400 monoblock 400W RMS amp. This solves the internal heat latency and dissipation issue, keeps the footprint small, and will sound much better and hopefully last much longer than the integrated sub/amp systems out there. Also worth mention that this setup is CHEAPER than the basslink.... HTH
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