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-   -   Time for a Service (http://www.jeepgarage.org/f51/time-for-a-service-41803.html)

Ypahihi 05-07-2012 03:31 AM

Time for a Service
 
Thought I would put it out there and ask what I need to consider for a service for the old girl.

I've had her for a year and she came with a new motor with 14000kmish on the clock. I had her serviced after the 5000kmish trip from Sydney to Darwin. Had the front diff rebuilt and rear diff serviced, new rotors and calipers, secondhand 3" lift kit, new lighting and replaced most of the electrical parts that are expected to die on a 2000 WJ.

Apart from heading down the track to go fishing I really haven't done a lot of kms and am up for a 10,000km service. The only issue with fishing has been getting the door handles wet on river crossings. Probably why the speakers, window regulators and starter motor have died at various stages.

I have ordered the following and was wondering if there is anything else I should consider for this service.
Mopar O2 sensors, WIX oil, fuel and air filters and Autolite platinum plugs.

Will be trying FUCHS Lubricants as our workshop runs this throughout the Merc ambulance fleet. I had been running BOSS lubricants.

Last but not least is the Bilstein 5100 series shocks I will be replacing as the second hand shockies feel like they are fading.

Any ideas would be appreciated. :lol:

Frango100 05-07-2012 06:26 AM

Re: Time for a Service
 
In an other thread a few members where complaining about the WIX fuel filter/regulator. It works ok, but seems to be producing strange noises.
Did you already change the T-case fluid?
And what about the tranny fluid and filters?
If you do river crossing more often, its a good idea to check the diff fluid for any presence of water.
Since the engine is new, the coolant should be ok.
Was all the brake fluid changed when changing the calipers? Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years, since its hygroscopic and absorbs the moisture from the air. The water inside the fluid can cause corrosion of the internal metal parts.
An item which many people forget is the lubrication of the brake caliper slidings pins. The manual calls for every 19.000 Km.
If never changed, the PCV valve would be a good idea as well or at least to perform an inspection on it to see if the valve inside is not sticking. A bad working PCV valve can cause oil sludge formation.

Ypahihi 05-07-2012 08:25 AM

Re: Time for a Service
 
Thanks Frank for the advise,

All fluids were changed at 5000ish kms. I wouldn't have expected the mechs to have changed the trans filter, so will look at that and the PVC valve (will need to read up on it).
The new radiator died not long after the service. It appears that I had a current running through the radiator and it blew a hole. So installed new radiator that was earthed and coolant to match.
Brake fluids changed just recently and I still have the bag pipe noise when applying brakes so will get them to investigate where that's coming from as I have no idea (I did explore for nil success).
No milk in the diff after the last fishing trip.
I read Mon,s write up on the fuel filter, and Tony's response to using the WIX / NAPA fuel filter so will be interested to see what happens there. Will change the fuel filter myself to satisfy my curiosity.

01grand 05-07-2012 10:49 AM

Re: Time for a Service
 
The noise from the brakes, is it kind of like a whistling? It could be a tear in the brake booster.

Frango100 05-07-2012 12:55 PM

Re: Time for a Service
 
Changing the PCV valve is very easy, however if you only want to inspect it, you could better do it on a warm (not too hot) engine. The reason for that is that the rubber hose connection gets very stiff when cold and you have a big change to break the PCV in two pieces (how do i know that :o).
When the hose is of, you turn the PCV counter clockwise around 30 Deg until you feel a stop and just pull it out. Some lubrication spray could easy the job.
The 5-45 RFE tranny has two filters inside, the oval shaped inlet filter (take care you get the right one, because there is a 4x2 and a 4x4 filter) and a round spin-on return filter. The oval shaped filter normally comes with a new seal for the pump inlet. This seal must be installed first flush in the pump inlet with the help of the butt end of a hammer (or something similar) and then the filter can be installed. Not doing it this way will increase the change that the filter inlet tube comes out of the pump inlet and the pump will only suck air (and you will be stranded somewhere in a nasty place)

cheapjeep 05-07-2012 06:17 PM

Re: Time for a Service
 
Also Ypahihi since you do a lot of water crossings get rid of these lame ass crimp bands on your diff vent hoses They are very loose and the hose can easily be pulled off by hand so you know they cant be very water tight. I used those good fuel line clamps on mine.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...MG210Small.jpg

Also since you have a 3" lift your rear diff vent hose is stretched to it's limit at full droop.You might want to reroute it like this.

Before

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...MG220Small.jpg

After

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...MG221Small.jpg

Ypahihi 05-09-2012 08:50 AM

Re: Time for a Service
 
Gentlemen.
thanks again for the advise.
01Grand
yep, it whistles or scretches if I stomp on the brakes hard or usually the first couple of times that I use the brakes.

Cheapjeep,
love the pics, as my favourite spot is still unacessable, I will take your advise and make the changes. Hadn't actually thought about how the lift can alter alignments.

Frank,
Have added the tranny filters to the order that is on it's way.

Cheers all


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