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-   -   Using a PAC C2R-CHY4 on the Boston system (http://www.jeepgarage.org/f186/using-a-pac-c2r-chy4-on-the-boston-system-41910.html)

Mr Chill 05-09-2012 12:54 PM

Using a PAC C2R-CHY4 on the Boston system
 
I just wanted to put my experience with this product out there for any WK owners with the Boston amplified system.

The C2R-CHY4 is designed to do four things. First it gives retained accessory power to your aftermarket headunit. Second it provides all the necessary connections for you to run an aftermarket navigation and dvd system. Third it has a SWI output (module sold separately). Finally it takes two channels of output from your headunit and recreates the can-bus info the Boston amp needs to power the speakers.

In my application, I only use two of its features, ignoring the navi/dvd and SWI outputs. My source unit is a 2012 Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X496. I have Infinity Reference 3032cf dash speakers and factory door speakers. I also run a 500w sub amp and a JL Audio MicroSub.

Initially the wiring was very simple. Power, accessory, ground, speakers, etc. Wires on the adapter match aftermarket standard. After powering up I ran into some signal level issues. I had to use the Kenwood's Volume Offset feature, and set it to maximum attenuation (-8). Without it the headunit was simply overpowering the input of the Boston amp and causing massive distortion. In my opinion, the feauture needs broader adjustment. Do not buy a headunit without this feature. It is impossible to attenuate the signal with the PAC adapter. Even after using Volume Offset, my maximum volume level is 25, roughly half. To run it above level 22 I have to use a 100Hz high pass or the door speakers distort audibly.

Also, I had to boost the headunit's subwoofer output to its maximum (+15) and crank up the gain on my sub amp to achieve a reasonable level. The big downside to this is it leaves a lot of bass on the table. My subs don't play near as strong as they did when I could leave subwoofer level between 0 to +3, amp gain at nominal, and turn the volume up to 32 or 33.

All of this is taxing the headunit greatly. Extended higher-volume play creates enough heat for the Kenwood to protect itself by momentarily pausing output every few seconds.

Overall, the adapter does the job but having to adjust levels that much is far from ideal. If I didn't have subs to contend with, I probably wouldn't mind as much.

I hope that sheds some light for anyone wanting to put an aftermarket headunit in a Boston system. Fwiw, this won't last long for me. My next upgrade is an eXcelon X450-4 staggered 4ch amp and a set of Reference 6x9's. I may or may not upgrade the rear doors and power them off the deck.

SinRG 05-25-2012 12:00 AM

Re: Using a PAC C2R-CHY4 on the Boston system
 
This is a really helpful post for me. The factory nav unit on my 2005 JGC recently died and I did quite a bit of research about what to replace it with. I ended up choosing JVC KW-AV60BT. It has the features I want and the price is pretty decent. I do have a couple of questions, though.

Right before I was ready to buy the head unit, Best Buy offered a free installation deal, so I went ahead and bought from them a couple weeks ago. They let me order the installation hardware online so I grabbed the PAC C2R-CHY4 instead of the Metra brand harness Best Buy would have sold me.

So, I scheduled the installation with Best Buy and got everything set up. They were very helpful, everything looks good, professional. One thing I did notice, though, is that there seems to be a touch of static/noise in the speakers now that is audible when there is no audio playing and the volume is set to anything above zero. I can't hear it when the car is moving and the volume is loud enough, though, so it doesn't really bug me. Does anyone else with this product and an aftermarket stereo notice any low-level static when the stereo is on w/o audio playing?

Finally, I know there is a parking brake wire that disallows use of certain features unless the parking brake is engaged; I think this is the red/white wire. Could any one offer some advice about how to re-wire this to circumvent this feature? I think the idea is to splice it to the ground. I assume I would have to cut the connection between the PAC harness and my new radio, then splice the wire to the ground wire of the PAC harness?

I really appreciate any advice, experience, or suggestions anyone may have. Thanks!

JMLoughrey 05-26-2012 11:18 AM

Re: Using a PAC C2R-CHY4 on the Boston system
 
on the jvc units, if you take the lt green wire off the back of the radio and put that to the ground wire of the radio it will over ride the parking brake circuit.

I will give you a note of warning though, i'm not familiar with the laws in CA, on the east coast in CT ive had several customers come in with tickets from state cops to have it changed and a $500 fine is assested. Its against the law to have video in view of the driver while the vehicle is in motion.

SinRG 05-28-2012 01:34 AM

Re: Using a PAC C2R-CHY4 on the Boston system
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JMLoughrey (Post 635027)
on the jvc units, if you take the lt green wire off the back of the radio and put that to the ground wire of the radio it will over ride the parking brake circuit.

I will give you a note of warning though, i'm not familiar with the laws in CA, on the east coast in CT ive had several customers come in with tickets from state cops to have it changed and a $500 fine is assested. Its against the law to have video in view of the driver while the vehicle is in motion.

Thanks for this info...and for the warning. The behavior of this particular head unit is pretty unpredictable. For instance, when using the "Apps" option on the radio, I can play Netflix from my phone on the screen w/o the parking brake engaged. This is the same thing I use to display GPS from the phone to the head unit, which is probably why this works.

When using the "iPod" option on the head unit, there are three ways to interface with the iDevice. With one, it yields control of the iPod/iPhone to the head unit, with the next, it uses the head unit's standard display, but everything is controlled through the iDevice, and with the third, it is basically the iDevice TV Out for the Music player, which requires the parking brake to be engaged to use. Funny enough, when my phone is running a GPS app and I choose the "iPod" option on the head unit, it will output the GPS video ONLY if I engage the parking brake. Basically, "iPod" mode requires parking brake (in some cases), "Apps" does not.

Anyway, I don't actually care about playing video on the head unit (which is partially enabled as it is), I just want the behavior of the unit to be predictable and make sense. I'm getting used to how it is working, though, so I'm probably not going to fuss with it anyway. Maybe when I get around to installing a steering wheel control module...


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