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Jeep OM642 CRD Performance Mod's

172K views 77 replies 22 participants last post by  tcbrady 
#1 ·
I think it’s time we have a thread dedicated to all things performance and improvement modifications for the Jeep OM642 CRD engine. This will be helpful to have all the modifications we have done to improve upon the design, performance, and reliability of the drivetrain in one thread. I am going to start with my rough idea of importance once you buy your CRD. Will reserve several posts to keep this concise and for future improvements. I am going to overlook basic maintenance items because those should be done as per the maintenance schedule available in the owner’s manual. Please post with comments and suggestions.
1st Elephant Hose Mod
Several posts on this mod, I chose a little bit different approach. I used Goodyear 1” heater hose with some PVC hose connectors and stainless hose clamps. I put attached a short piece from the CCV valve to a 90 fitting down the side of the engine a ran along the body seam to the rear of the vehicle to keep any possible amount of gases going into the cab. I ran this setup with my stock intake for a while before I made my intake setup. I machined my own plug for myself and some buddies in town with CRD's. I have a couple extra if anyone wants one $18 shipped.
Routing from valve

90 to go down side of engine

Route down side of engine

Bend

Termination

Plug I machined

Plug installed
 
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#31 · (Edited)
Sorry, haven't had much time to get on the forum's with work and two young ones. I don't have a service manual in PDF. I bought the actual book manual. But I thought someone on here had one. I found out most of what you have, but you have more knowledge on several of the finer points, but some info that I have.

1. Yes, there a few shops in the US that tune the gearbox to handle massive power behind the hemi in the SRT8 models. I have talked with them about my transmission and they were more than capable to build it up to handle all this engine could muster.
2. Interesting, let me know it if works.
3. I have looked, but trying to find them in the US is very difficult.
4. A couple of shops offer tuned TCM's but they are more for the hemi and only help in manual mode. The tuned valve body helps more with shift points than tuning that I have seen so far.
5. Yes, I have seen the blue tops for the SLR, but I have heard better reports of a tuned valve body upgrade. Paramount Performance offers one.
1. Yep, I have an extra set that I am trying to remove all the bolt posts in and open up for more flow. It’s similar to what we do on the 6.0 & 6.4 Powerstrokes. Swirl valves are long gone, with holes welded up. If that doesn’t work then it off the custom manifolds, but with the water running through the manifold, it seems like a lot of work unless it’s truly necessary.
2. I have an extra CP3 injector pump and have made a slave controller to run the extra CP3 similar to what they use on the Duramaxes and Cummins. I made my own because our connectors are different and I have a buddy that is an EE and works at a place that makes stuff like this all day long. It only cost me like $75 to make instead of over $200 and still need new connectors. I figured this would be easier than trying to get a 400CDI pump and all the tuning issues with it. I can fab up all the brackets, pulley, and stuff for the extra pump. Shown is the prototype controller without correct length wire and connectors.
3&4. 85 HP per cylinder is good. I am shooting for about 375-400 HP at the wheels. I don't understand 3&4 they seem like they contradict each other. I would like to add a stronger rail pressure sensor, but think the tuning would make it too difficult.
5. Ya, I looked for one, but need to get with my tuner to see if we can make something work. Otherwise, I have tuning that keeps fueling even though I am maxed out on the MAP sensor. I can get quite a bit of smoke, so I know I have more fuel to burn just need to add more air. I got the 2260 and will run that for a while and work to get around 275 whp. Then I plan on compounding with a BW S366 I have laying around from my Powerstroke. I still need to get an extra engine to play with so I can see how much power it can handle before something gives up. I talked with A1 Technologies to see about some H11 studs for the high boost pressures to make sure the head gaskets survive.
7. Got the DPF delete and EGR deletes. Still need to remove the egr cooler and reroute the coolant lines. I made up some EGR plates.
1. I have thought about the brembo upgrade, but I am working on something different. Trying to get the spindles from the SRT8 is expensive and difficult. Plus then you are forced to run 20’s. I working on the setup now and will post more when I have it figured out. I hope it will work with 17’s and the standard spindle so it’s easy to retrofit.
2. I have tried the SRT8 suspension, but I like to go off road a bit and the SRT8 rides nice, but lacks travel. I bottomed my suspension out almost every day when I had the SRT8 suspension and still do with the stock springs. I have some section near my house that I like to run hard and just sucks bottoming out the suspension so hard. I am working on a coilover setup that I can leave at roughly stock height and get 12” of travel and more up travel. I am a huge fan of TORC Pro-Lite trucks. When I was a kid a guy raced and we would watch him practice on his own track on this farm. I try to make it to a race or two a year. Would love to race, but not rich enough for that and I don’t like as close to Crandon, WI as I used to.
3. Well my one WK has the QD2 setup, but its for off road and rally cross, so I am not worried about gears. My other one has QT2 setup and I have 3.08 axles and need to swap them out so I can really get some real speed and economy. Shooting for 30+ mpg 4x4 WK CRD.
4. Both of mine are below 100K mi, but they still run strong with no issues. Both are tuned.
5. I would agree the stock intercooler doesn’t lower the temps as well. However, disagree and feel the real issue with the intercooler is core size and the outlet id size of 1.67”. This is way too small to be able to get any power out of. With this outlet size you are pretty much limited to max ~ 275 HP. The physics won’t allow you to get more than that HP out of a hole that size. The flow becomes turbulent any higher flow so you end up losing power. I think your dyno runs prove most of that point. When I installed a large 3” core intercooler it was night and day difference. On a stock Jeep it runs better than one with a stock intercooler and a good DPF delete tune.


 
#33 ·
Because these transmissions can hold a bit more torque than what they are rated at.
 
#35 ·
I am at the same power level ~ 650Nm and I haven't had any issues. I even pull a car trailer with mine from time to time and have never had any issues. I don't baby mine at all and the transmission still keeps up just fine. If or when it does fail I will get a full build so it could easily handle ~1000Nm. The SRT8 guys put over 700Nm for quite a bit of time and they handle it. I will keep pushing it to see how much it can handle.
 
#36 ·
humm... that's interesting because I always thought the TCM was the key "servo" regulating (with the ECM) the amount of torque that it can output. From it's name (W5A580), it should be configured to be outputing a max of 580Nm... However I've seen people saying that the transmission fited into the CRD is another variant of the W5A580 i.e. 545RFE or WJ5400. I think here the key difference is the gearing of the second gear having a second prime for smoother shifting... not sure thoug.
Here's an interesting thread check post number 7.
TDIClub Forums
 
#37 ·
#40 ·
Hello, PM sent, but for all to see. I've had the best luck with 27x12x3 with 2.5" ends. These fit the best with a healthy improvement in air flow.
 
#42 ·
No problem. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
#45 ·
No, but I would stick with Green Diesel Engineering tuning. I can't think of one person I know with Malone tuning in a Jeep, but I know lots of people with GDE tuning. Malone has good tunes for VW's, but limited experience in Jeeps. Not knocking their capabilities, but I would stick with proven tuning.
 
#50 ·
Hi Tnadanzig Nice thread and i wonder if you or someone can help me. My friend has a 08 Grand Jeep Cherokee 3.0 l OM 642. And he bought a power upgrade kit that he thinks he might get up to 400 hp from a Tunner in the States. What he wants to know is What is the MAX power he can put into the engine without having to to touch the bottom end of the engine.He says he wants to raise the power to 500 hp if the engine can handle it.

Harald
 
#52 ·
I understand that wont make 500 hp but is is getting Meth injection and maybe NOS also. So that is why he would like to know what the bottom engine will Handle. I see no one here has an idea what the engine can take...No problem so i will see if someone else knows.


Today i talked to a friend of mine that works at DB and he says that the engine wont take more than it has now? but he is not 100% sure so he will try and find out more
 
#53 ·
I understand that wont make 500 hp but is is getting Meth injection and maybe NOS also. So that is why he would like to know what the bottom engine will Handle. I see no one here has an idea what the engine can take...No problem so i will see if someone else knows.

Today i talked to a friend of mine that works at DB and he says that the engine wont take more than it has now? but he is not 100% sure so he will try and find out more
241 HP With reprog alone
I think 265 or something more if you build in the turbo from ml 350 alone
The 2 together I don't know
 
#61 ·
The engine won't hold to 500 HP. The rods and pistons won't hold that much power. 400 HP would be the top of what a stock engine could handle, but you will be pushing the limit of the stock head bolts. The stock CP3 injection pump won't get you past 350 so unless you have gotten farther than me on using a upgraded CP3 than I wouldn't worry about it. Currently one on makes a turbo to get over 350 HP. I sell a turbo kit to get you to 350 and working on a VGT turbo to get to 400 HP. If you go a non VGT turbo you could go higher, but I don't know of anyone with much experience with tuning those. I have designed a 400+ twin turbo setup, but don't have much time or money to devout to that project. I don't see the engine living that long. The GTB2260VKLR turbo will work, but you need to use a modified mount that goes with that turbo or make your own.
I have played quite a bit with methanol injection and it will had some, but its not going to knock your socks off. I only use if you have run out of fuel and need a tiny bit more to get a small amount of power, I call it a band aid power adder as it just helps mask other areas that need to be addressed.
 
#64 ·
After I broke 400Hp and 900nm on my audi 3.0tdi I am picking up this project again.

Could you help me with:
- DAMOS file EDC16 OM642
- 4 bar Map (PNP if possible)
- 2000+ bar rail pressure sender

I ordered the same hybrid for my GC then I use on my audi.
It makes just north of 1400KG of air ( audi 3.0 biturbo only makes 1320 )

How do you make enough fuel for 350? stock CP3?
 
#62 · (Edited)
I think it’s time we have a thread dedicated to all things performance and improvement modifications for the Jeep OM642 CRD engine. This will be helpful to have all the modifications we have done to improve upon the design, performance, and reliability of the drivetrain in one thread. I am going to start with my rough idea of importance once you buy your CRD. Will reserve several posts to keep this concise and for future improvements. I am going to overlook basic maintenance items because those should be done as per the maintenance schedule available in the owner’s manual. Please post with comments and suggestions.
1st Elephant Hose Mod
Several posts on this mod, I chose a little bit different approach. I used Goodyear 1” heater hose with some PVC hose connectors and stainless hose clamps. I put attached a short piece from the CCV valve to a 90 fitting down the side of the engine a ran along the body seam to the rear of the vehicle to keep any possible amount of gases going into the cab. I ran this setup with my stock intake for a while before I made my intake setup. I machined my own plug for myself and some buddies in town with CRD's. I have a couple extra if anyone wants one $18 shipped.....



Do you still have any of those plugs for sale?
 
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