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-   -   Brakes Questions (http://www.jeepgarage.org/f109/brakes-questions-55481.html)

Overlander70 02-26-2013 03:19 PM

Brakes Questions
 
Hey Guys,

I have 35,000 mi on my 2011 Overland Hemi. (bigger front rotor then v6). There is still a lot of pad and rotor thickness. However, braking has deteriorated by 35-50% from when it was new. You definitely have to press on the pedal harder and stops occur later. I have had several 5000 lbs plus SUVS over the years and the breaks all seem to loose their luster after 30k mi.

Can you just change the pads without the Rotors? Jeep claims that by only changing pads the rotors wont burn in with the new pads properly and they recommend changing both.

Please provide your experience and or feedback on this.

Thank You,

Overlander70

Andoskyy 02-26-2013 04:43 PM

Re: Brakes Questions
 
With 35k miles, your rotors are likely fine. You can have them checked or measure yourself. If they've worn down under minimum thickness...you'll want to replace them.

When you replace just pads, you need to go through a bedding process. This involves repeated long/hard braking with cooling intervals in between. Google "Bedding new pads" and you'll find the method.

With 35k, I'd personally just replace the pads....and I'd be 99% sure your rotors are still well within spec.

The Evil Twin 02-26-2013 05:14 PM

Re: Brakes Questions
 
In my experience, you have one (or a couple) things that can be done:
-First, make sure that the pad wear is even. You could have a caliper piston hung up.
-Yank off the rotors and have them re surfaced provided there is enough material to do this. You can also do it yourself if you have an angle grinder with a fine wire wheel (use a light touch) or even an orbital sander with 200 grit sandpaper. This is usually part of my maintenance on the race bike, and I have done it on the cars as well.
-Have your brake fluid flushed. Over time, it will absorb moisture and this will decrease the boil point of the fluid. DOT 3 fluid is usually OEM grade and has a "Wet Boil Point" of at least 284*f. Better quality fluid of the same class (DOT3) may be higher. Regardless, the usual standard is to flush every 2-4 years depending on application.
-Your pads may be glazed. If they are, they may or may not make noise. If they are then you can remove the glazed material by dragging them over a sheet of sandpaper that is placed on a smooth, level surface- garage floor, mirror, work bench top. Do figure 8's with the pad. Don't go all ape-$h!t and sand them to nubs. Very little needs to be removed; .040" should be fine. If you go through this, then you may as well hit the rotors too.

Don't forget to bed them in if you resurface the rotor and/ or pads.
Edit; another option is, as you said to replace the pads. They aren't terribly expensive and you are going to be in there anyway to remove the old ones.

Overlander70 02-27-2013 07:27 AM

Re: Brakes Questions
 
Thanks Guys,

The dealership told me my rotor thickness was fine but discourage me against just replacing pads. I think replacing the pads, fluid and bedding the pads makes the most sense now. I appreciate it!

-Overlander70

Andoskyy 02-27-2013 08:19 AM

Re: Brakes Questions
 
Let us know how it works out!

I'm sure the dealer really wanted your pad/rotor replacement business!

You can also consider a different pad. I had really good luck with my Lexus OEM pads...but it had huge rotors and 4 piston calipers for a small vehicle...so anything would have stopped it on a dime. With a 6,000 pound SUV, I personally will do more research when pad replacing time comes around.

I've heard nothing but good things about EBC and their greenstuff, redstuff, etc pads...but never used them. A different pad compound may give you the bite you're looking for as well as maintain that through 100% of the pad life.

The Evil Twin 02-27-2013 08:57 AM

Re: Brakes Questions
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Andoskyy (Post 768742)

I'm sure the dealer really wanted your pad/rotor replacement business!

:lol: You think?
At risk of turning this into an "Oil Thread", take a look at some comps:
Performance Brake Pads Compared: Hawk HPS, Hawk HP Plus, EBC Yellowstuff | Car and Driver Blog

canis 02-27-2013 12:25 PM

Re: Brakes Questions
 
I would bleed the brakes before doing ANYTHING. You're supposed to bleed them once a year or so. Changing out that fluid can make a HUGE difference. Make sure to do a full flush and not just the top at the wheels. Running some sand paper across the face of the pads while you're in there wouldn't hurt either. Certain pad brands mounted on certain applications will glaze more or less than others.

Edit: This is also free/cheap and you can do it yourself before outsourcing and spending money.

ColdCase 02-27-2013 01:15 PM

Re: Brakes Questions
 
I'm pretty sure most dealers and shops hate returns on a repair issue. Saves them time and lowers the risk of unsatisfied customers and return expenses by just replacing parts with new stuff, including the rotors. I always have the calipers rebuilt when I do a brake job, there is a good enough chance that dirt will screw up the seal as you compress the pistons that it just pays to replace them. One complaint about smoking hot brakes is enough to ruin your day. If you put new parts on you can at least blame the part vendor... :) Rotors, for example, are now cheap enough it doesn't pay for a shop to recondition them. Those of us that do our own work can keep an eye on the repair.

Now there is a fine judgement line between replacement and re-use cost and convenience.


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