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-   -   How to service 545RFE transmission (http://www.jeepgarage.org/f204/how-to-service-545rfe-transmission-60519.html)

TJXJWJ 05-25-2013 09:41 PM

How to service 545RFE transmission
 
Well, I did manage to get around to this today so I took a few pics and figured I'd post up exactly how simple this is.

First thing...get all your new stuff in order. I decided to buy a new OE pan, lay an entire can of Rustoleum bedliner on it, buy new pan bolts, both new filters (WIX), and new juice from the stealership.
ATF+4 - part number 5013458AA, I got 2 gallons and used 1.5.
ATF RTV gasket maker - part number 5010884AA
Trans Oil Pan - part number 68065923AA
M6-12 Bolts from Fastenal - part number - 11115715
Filters/"service kit" from Summit Racing - part number - WIX-58843

The gasket maker was used instead of the rubber gasket provided in the Summit Racing kit. $180 was spent in total.

Bedlinered pan:
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3903931e.jpg

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps197a10f9.jpg

Other stuff:
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps99a91f7c.jpg
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...psa2bfbd50.jpg
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5fa297e1.jpg


OK, so time to get to work. I put the front axle up on stands to give myself room to work. I used a large shallow pan with a regular oil drain pan on it, and removed bolts from the back of the vehicle to the front, leaving 2 holding the pan up. It started oozing and dripping out after taking the 2nd bolt out, so be prepared. I then lifted the pan back up against the trans and removed the last two bolts, then lowered the juice-filled pan onto my drain pan. I just let it drip for awhile. This is what you should be looking at:

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8a8648b9.jpg

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9cd68158.jpg

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1128d867.jpg

Here's the inside of the old pan...not bad at all...not much on the magnet!

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...pse3f871b9.jpg

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6ebd386d.jpg

In the pics above, you'll see the 2 filters. One is just a spin-on oil filter like you're used to seeing, and the other is a flat type. One screw holds that one on. It's a T25. Take that screw off and gently pry back and forth on it. It'll come off. Then spin off the other filter and throw them both into your drain pan. The flat filter has a seal that should still be left in the transmission. It's about the diameter of a quarter. You can see it in the pic below. That needs to be removed from the trans. I got it out with a flat head screwdriver. Lube up the new one and install it. I used the butt end of a hammer to seat it with a mallet.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8043ac4e.jpg

Then make sure all the gasket material is off. I got lucky. Most of mine came off with the pan. A little scraping with a plastic razor blade and some brake parts cleaner, and I was all set:

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4ff1a2ab.jpg

Spin on your new filter after lubing the seal, and tighten like you would your engine oil filter. The flat filter's long tube presses easily into the seal you just got done seating, and the other end gets supported with that T-25 screw you took out earlier.

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...psc0fda8f5.jpg

I then squirted out a nice bead of the RTV around the entire new pan, going around each bolt hole, and set it into place. This is probably the most critical part to make sure you don't get leaks. You want to see a little ooze out of the side. I installed all the bolts finger tight with a socket and extension, and then torqued them down to 105 INCH pounds in a diagonal pattern. When done, I went back and checked them all again. Here's what I was looking at at that point:

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6dc3510c.jpg

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps69b6cb13.jpg

Now because I am the way I am, I let it sit like this for about 4 hours and did some other stuff around the garage to let the RTV cure. As I was waiting, I was cleaning up. I managed to catch everything that came out of my trans, so I measured how much fluid came out. Came to 6 liters...and that's what I ended up putting back in later. I then ran the Jeep, ran through the gears and checked the level. It was perfect. I drove around and did some errands, came home and checked again hot...still perfect.

Super easy job...just a little messy. Don't be afraid to tackle this one! Lube your trannies....LUBE THEM!!!! :D:thumbsup:

Frango100 05-25-2013 10:24 PM

Re: How to service 545RFE transmission
 
Nice write-up Tony.
This was the perfect opportunity to install the transgo shiftkit. What happened????
Good that you mentioned to install the oval inlet filter seal first into the pump inlet, before installing the filter itself, because not observing this point will most probably end with a detached filter (and that always happens somewhere in the middle of nowhere).

TJXJWJ 05-26-2013 10:56 AM

Re: How to service 545RFE transmission
 
Frango Unchained...I was VERY close to going with the Transgo, and the $230 aluminum cover with drain instead of the OE one. Very close. The truth is, I'm not racing it, and the Superchip has made the shifts a LOT snappier already. We both know that if it's not carbon fiber, it really doesn't make you go faster...heheheh

VanBCguy 11-10-2013 05:09 AM

Re: How to service 545RFE transmission
 
Great write-up for those of us that are new to WJs and the 545RFE.

Thanks!

*sox* 11-10-2013 06:39 AM

Re: How to service 545RFE transmission
 
cool write up!

have you also realern the tranny with the witec/starcan?

Trav1s 11-10-2013 09:17 AM

Re: How to service 545RFE transmission
 
Anyone else doing this might consider a PML transmission pan. It takes an additional 2 qts or so over stock. This one is tapped for a trans temp gauge, too.

http://www.yourcovers.com/transmission_pans.html

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...psd0c96230.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...660B4-orig.jpg

Frango100 11-10-2013 12:38 PM

Re: How to service 545RFE transmission
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by *sox* (Post 927583)
cool write up!

have you also realern the tranny with the witec/starcan?

You don´t have to do the relearn after a fluid/filter change. With the relearn the CVI´s (clutch volume indexes) will be set back to factory standards and from there on the TCM will measure the time needed to apply each clutch and fine tune the CVI´s for smooth shifts. If the tranny was shifting fine before the fluid change, it should as well thereafter. The manual tells to do the relearn after changing the solenoid pack or changing the clutch packs. When i changed my solenoid pack i didn´t see/feel any change in the shifting. Only after the rebuild (all clutches and seals) and installing a shiftkit, third gear was shifting real hard. I then went to a local transmission shop where they have the chrysler DRBIII scanner, and we did a quick learn on the TCM. Thereafter it was all smooth again.

VanBCguy 11-11-2013 12:36 PM

Re: How to service 545RFE transmission
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Frango100 (Post 927718)
You don´t have to do the relearn after a fluid/filter change. With the relearn the CVI´s (clutch volume indexes) will be set back to factory standards and from there on the TCM will measure the time needed to apply each clutch and fine tune the CVI´s for smooth shifts. If the tranny was shifting fine before the fluid change, it should as well thereafter. The manual tells to do the relearn after changing the solenoid pack or changing the clutch packs. When i changed my solenoid pack i didn´t see/feel any change in the shifting. Only after the rebuild (all clutches and seals) and installing a shiftkit, third gear was shifting real hard. I then went to a local transmission shop where they have the chrysler DRBIII scanner, and we did a quick learn on the TCM. Thereafter it was all smooth again.

Using what type of acceleration during this relearn?


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