Water Pump DIY.
Heres a write up from this past weekend when I finally decided to change out my water pump on my 05 Hemi w/130000 miles. I noticed some coolant leaking on my garage floor, and had to add some once a week. I couldnt pinpoint where it was leaking from and hadnt had any overheating, but since I still had the OEM belt, and didnt want to get stranded I decided to fix both at once. I bought the GMB from Advance for $80. Stealer wanted $480. Local part installer wanted $180 if I bring the pump. They say to put in a new T-stat but since I recently installed a new one, I didnt. Job took me about 3 hours, taking breaks, taking pics, taking my time, and cleaning up coolant.
After removing mine, i realized the pump was still good. There was no rattle, no shaft play, nothing. I guess the seal started leaking at the bottom. I was a little disappointed but glad now that its done. Our factory prop is metal, I thought I had read it was plastic.
10, 14, 15, and 16mm, T50 torx needed.
1---DRAIN COOLANT!!! I cant stress this enough, I was dumb and thought I had drained it properly and made a huge mess.
2---Remove intake and bracket, and upper radiator hose completely.
3---Remove bracket that holds AC lines by screwing CCW and the bolt it screws onto.
4--Remove belt by releasing tension on tensioner, I used a long breaker bar, makes it real easy.
5—Remove tensioner and pulley(pop off black cap first)
6—Remove thermostat housing and T-stat.
7—Remove water pump bolts and make a template of where the bolts go, there are 2 different lengths. Expect coolant to pour out, almost impossible to get it all. Tap out hard coolant supply line from upper right of pump, easier after you remove the 10mm bolt. Also release lower radiator drain tube from pump. Expect more coolant to pour out. I used a golf ball to block it off.
8—Remove allen head screw on the front of the pump and install it on new pump. Install rubber gasket into new pump , clean off the sealing area on the engine and start reinsalling the new pump. I torqued the bolts to about 13-14 ft/lb, alternating upper then lower several times to make sure it seated properly.
9—Reinstall pulley and tensioner, then T-stat and housing, then AC bracket, then belt, upper rad hose, and intake. Fill and check for leaks.
Not too difficult of a job, just a little messy. If you have basic tools and knowledge you should be fine. Everybody always talks about how difficult it is to add fluid and stress about air. ive never once had an issue. i slowly add it back into the radiator using a funnel. i let it sit for a few minutes and let the bubbles work their way out then add more. crank it and let it run and recheck and add more if needed. I do that over and over until the level doesnt drop anymore.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:11 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2012 - JeepGarage.Org
The Jeep Grand Cherokee Owners Community