RV Rear View Camera Wiring in 2014 WK2
I've learned a lot here on the forum so I thought I would document my rear view camera wiring in the hope it might be of value to others.
I felt very nervous towing our little RV with just extender mirrors and a little bird whispered to my children that dad would like an RV camera kit for his birthday. I'm installing a Rear View Camera Safety Systems 7" screen kit bought from Amazon for $200. I thought about the wireless units because they would be MUCH easier to install but was scared off by all the bad reviews. This wired camera works great. The picture is clear enough to tell the brand of the vehicle behind you. The only negative I would have is that at night car headlights close behind you often wash out the screen.
Nobody with a brand new car wants to drill holes so I found a route that does the least harm to my new Jeep. Other posters suggested routing wire through the +12v cable grommet behind the glove box or using the hood release cable grommet. Neither of these are super easy to get to or nearly big enough to take the 5/8" dia connector on the end of the wire. The wire itself is almost 1/4" dia as it's a sheath with four light gage wires inside.
1. Remove the spare tire and jack.
2. On the four tie down points, pop plastic covers then remove one screw from each.
3. Gently pry up rear plastic trim cover. Unplug wire in center (proximity sensor for liftgate??). Remove cover.
4. Pry up forward carpeted trim cover.
5. Remove plastic tub that surrounds spare tire.
6. Fold carpet out of the way. You should see this:
7. Pry up plastic cover with a couple of flat bladed screw drivers. The blue adhesive/sealant Jeep used is quite soft, the cover comes up easily. At least it did in my Jeep built just three weeks ago.
8. Drill a hole in the cover large enough to pass the smaller wire connector through.
9. I needed a 5/8" dia hole for the connector and found a 5/8" OD, 3/8" ID rubber grommet to fit the hole and a 3/8"OD, 1/4"ID grommet to fit over the wire and inside the hole of the larger grommet. Total cost 90 cents at Ace hardware. You have to cut the small grommet to get it onto the wire. Here's the parts strung along the wire:
9.5. You will have to chisel out the ribs on the bottom of the plastic cover to let the lips of the grommet engage the plastic edge:
10. I made a bracket for the external connector that is the receptacle for the trailer wire out of 1/4" Plexiglas that I had laying around. Aluminum sheet would work well too. The Plexiglas is easy to machine and easy to bend with a heat gun.
11. Here's the bracket mounted to the bumper support. Jeep provided a 5/16" hole in just the right spot for a 1/4" bolt, the second fastener is a SS self tapping screw.
12. Here's the external wiring complete:
13. Glue the plastic cover back into place with RTV silicone, smear some on the outside where the wire and grommets pass through the plastic cover.
14. Duct tape the wire to the floor pan in the spare tire well and feed it under the driver's side rear seat.
15. Replace all the parts you removed in steps 1-5. Don't forget to plug in the little wire on the back of the rear trim cover.
16. Continue to feed the wire under the plastic trim piece under the front edge of the rear seat. Keep any excess wire under the rear seat. Coil it up and zip tie it to the undersurface of the seat.
17. The wire then runs under the rear floor mat and under the front seat. Then tuck it under the center console trim. The edge is flexible enough to pry it out with your fingers and shove the wire under. The 12v power wire and the camera feed connector emerge from the console trim right about where the gearshift is. The 12v plugs into the socket in the cubby and the camera wire plugs into the screen. They just lay between the console and seat when not in use.
18. Observing the easy-to-remove and no-holes-in-the-new-car rules I fabbed up a screen mount out of a water bottle and another scrap of Plexiglas. You could probably spring for a $40 RAM cupholder mount too.
19. Here's the finished product. You have to work the gearshift with your hand under the knob instead of on the top but that's no problem at all. All the dash controls are accessible and the only ones you can't see are the disable traction control button and the ECO button.
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