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-   -   Tranny/ transfer case????? (http://www.jeepgarage.org/f181/tranny-transfer-case-71425.html)

psychojeepers 02-08-2014 12:14 PM

Tranny/ transfer case?????
 
I have an 05 WK 4.7. i was driving on the interstate the other day and cruisin speed (65mph) when out of know where it was as if it popped into nuetral and rpms shot up i let off the gas and then gave it some more and still nothin shifted into N and then back into D and still nothin... pulled over and put it in park only to find out that didnt work either. P,R,D did not work. i put it in 4low and everything works fine? when i put it back in 4awd and shift it back to park i hear a bad grinding sound. i was told it could possibly be the transfer case by a buddy and the dealership so i found a used one and swapped it out but it didnt fix anything still doesnt do anything in 4awd and works in 4low. and it still makes a bad grinding sound in 4awd when you put it back in park... anyone have an idea what it could be? oh and i dont have any lights on the dash and nothing in the info screen... any help would be appreciated thanks! :confused::confused::confused:

2005JGC 02-08-2014 10:56 PM

Re: Tranny/ transfer case?????
 
Did it make the grinding noise when you put it in park before the "new" transfercase was put in?

The grinding noise is telling me that your transmission is flowing power through it clear to the transmission output where the park pawl is (the noise is your park pawl trying to stop a moving gear, if you had a transmission problem the transmission gear wouldn't be spinning. What IS missing is path to deliver the power to the ground.

By your symptom I wonder if you have broken CV joint up front. your transfercase is clutched so you may be destroying the clutches in the transfercase trying to move it in AWD. In order for this to happen you need the path to ground broken, in AWD, ANY path to ground broken can cause this, a stripped/broken axle in the rear, a broken axle up front, but if it works in 4LO then it locks the transfercase so now so long as one axle front or rear has an intact path to ground it will move the vehicle.

Leave your vehicle in park, BLOCK THE WHEELS! and jack up one side of the front and rear axles, 1 at a time, and try to spin the wheel, if the wheel spins that is your axle that has problems. If its in park your driveshaft wont be allowed to spin and with your opposite wheel on the ground it wont allow the spider gears to "differential". so if it spins it means its not connected to the drivetrain. Do it to all 4 wheels 1 at a time.

psychojeepers 02-10-2014 09:01 PM

Re: Tranny/ transfer case?????
 
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...191640_532.jpg
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...191649_812.jpg
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...191700_773.jpg

So i talked to the dealership and told them what all the jeep was doin and what i had done and they said it was something electrical so i went and disconnected the battery and reconnected it hoping it would just reset everything. When i went to start she popped some codes. Cleared the codes and tried to see if it would throw them again and she chimed and the check eng light would flash but when i went to check codes it said there were none. Hmmmm so i went to start and it wouldnt start. Not sure what to make of this? Did something cause the battery to drain or something else keeping it from starting? Figured i would clean out the connector on the TC solenoid since it was a recycled part maybe the connection is not good... but other than that im lost.

2005JGC 02-11-2014 01:41 PM

Re: Tranny/ transfer case?????
 
Clean the connector very well and go from there... your on the right track.

psychojeepers 02-12-2014 09:06 AM

Re: Tranny/ transfer case?????
 
UPDATE: i went to work on the jeep today and this is where i started. i wanted to see if the codes were still there but today it threw a new code. P0700 transmission control system (MIL request)... i cleared that code and cycled the key but didnt start to see if it would come back but didnt. However this is what it does: turn the key to ON, all the dash lights come on like normal and start to go out like normal but shortly after the air bag light chimes on then the CEL starts flashing, then the airbag light comes back on and the CEL starts blinking again. does this everytime the key is turned to ON. but when i check for codes there are none. once i start the jeep all the lights go out and about 5 secs after starting the air bag light chimes back on but no CEL. so i decide the raise the jeep up to start peaking around underneath. well the previous day i went out (my last post) i never mention that my driverside tire had gone extremely flat and i had noticed and small oil leak under the jeep. i Figured the the flat tire was causing stress on the cv axle seal on the diff causing it to leak. i pumped the tire back up and figured it be fine. well now that i have the jeep raised on the lift i decided to clean up the small pupple on the floor and to wipe up the residual on the skid plate. i also wanted to check the seal to make sure that it wasnt stretched or oblonged due to the cold weather. well thats when i noticed that the cv axle had come out of the diff and was loose. WTF! fought with it for a bit but got it to go back in but noticed it didnt clip/lock back in to the diff and i could just pull it right back out and push it back in? but due to your previous statement i decided to try it and see if it fixed my prob. so with the axle back in i started the jeep and in 4awd i moved it to R let my foot off the brake and it MOVED!!! however it moved about 4-5inches and it hit a snag and wouldnt moved by itself anymore but give it a little gas and it would start moving again. Put it in D and let my foot of the brake and again it moved forward fine about 4-5 inches and then abruptly stopped but given a little gas will continue foreward, but feels like there is alot of friction holding it back? not quite sure what though? i planned on pulling the front cover off the front diff to see if i could maybe find out why the axle will not lock into the diff and possibly what is causing this friction or reason why it feels like its bein held back by something. and with the axle back in the shifts feel normal 4awd and 4low and no more grinding noise, and the lights on the dash continue to do the same thing but with no codes? any thoughts?

hummer recovery team 02-12-2014 09:55 AM

I think it's speed sensors

2005JGC 02-14-2014 12:07 AM

Re: Tranny/ transfer case?????
 
You will see more by pulling the axle and I would assume that will show you all you need to know. I would focus on that before pulling the diff cover. There is not much to see or do by pulling the front diff cover. How are your ball joints and control arm bushings? Just trying to find something that would explain why the axle popped out.

One thing to consider, there may be nothing wrong with the axle, it is very difficult at times to get the axle seated all the way into the housing, you could try lifting the offending side of the vehicle, pull the wheel off, then take take the nut off the upper ball joint, give the knuckle a couple solid hits to break the taper then slam the top of the knuckle towards the vehicle (to push the axle into the housing).

As for why its only moving as far as it is, I am at a loss, I would really need to get my hands on it and experience the problem to really understand the symptom. Is it cold where you are? has the Ebrake been left on for an extended period of time?

I would also like to clarify, unless you have a limited, you do NOT have clutches in the front differential. I am not sure what I saw that made me assume you had a limited. Your center differential DOES have clutches and very well could be burnt up and failing due to trying to move the vehicle with the axle out. With the front axle out, the center differential will cause the front driveshaft to spin the front differential but the rear wont spin causing the clutches to slip. It may be worth your time to check the fluid condition.

psychojeepers 02-14-2014 09:20 AM

Re: Tranny/ transfer case?????
 
yes i am in nebraska and the weather hasnt been very warm lol. and i have had the ebrake on for a couple days while i was troubleshooting. as for the bushings and ball joints, the lower control arms were replaced when i installed my lift around march of last year. upper control arms still stock at 130,000 on them... gonna work on it tonight and see how it goes.


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