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-   -   MY14 DIY Trailer Socket Wiring (http://www.jeepgarage.org/f190/my14-diy-trailer-socket-wiring-73137.html)

Barboots 03-23-2014 09:18 AM

MY14 DIY Trailer Socket Wiring
 
MY14 towbar wiring can be spliced in pretty easily. Here's some pictures and information to assist you get the job started.

Trim removal is fairly normal going. At the least you will need the left side boot interior trim off. Refer to this link for general trim removal guidance if it doesn't come naturally:
http://www.wk2jeeps.com/wk2_interior_trim.htm


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/uzyma4at.jpg
- and -
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/usumuge9.jpg
STOP, TAIL, LEFT AND EARTH
Source was located at the base of the left D pillar in the boot. There's a large grey connector which can be unclipped from the body to provide a bit of working length. Note the trailer earth connection on the amplifier bracket bolt.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/5ygana5u.jpg
RIGHT INDICATOR
Source was located just around corner from the tail light behind the bumper and was chosen entirely due to the elevation of the exterior splice. I used a pick tool to push a hole through the ventilation flap's outer frame and ran the wiring back into the boot behind the sub. You could also drill and grommet behind the tail light itself, however it is double skinned here and can be a PITA as a result. Anyway, once inside run behind the spare tyre shroud to the previously photographed location.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/vu3yza2a.jpg
RIGHT INDICATOR (alternative)
Source is under the vehicle towards the right side of the boot, and where you will probably have to source the right indicator if you don't want to remove the bumper, or drill behind the tail light... or simply think my method was obsessive or just crap.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/gerydy4a.jpg
REVERSE
Source was located under the sub, on top of the right back wheel in the boot. Not many people bother wiring this in, but there it is if you want to do it by the book. Run across the inside rear of the vehicle with the right indicator.


PLUG = LAMP = CAR
Red = Stop = White/Brown
Yellow = Left = White/Green
Brown = Tail = White/Grey
Green = Right = White/Yellow
Black = Reverse = White/Lime
White = Earth = Bodywork


Once all wires are in the left rear corner, you can choose one of several methods to route them out. As I still had the bumper off I punched a hole in the grommet located on the lower left corner of the car and then ran along the back of the towbar. Apologies... I forgot to take a picture. You could also go through the floor, which might be best if you tapped the right indicator underneath as per the "alternative" method.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/naga8y6y.jpg
PIN ORIENTATION (flat 7 pin)
Courtesy Narva... they also have all other standards detailed here:
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/wiring-diagrams


There's obviously several methods you could adopt to run in trailer wiring. I'm not saying that this is in any way the best, it's simply how I did mine.

Cheers,
Steve

BobT 03-23-2014 06:46 PM

Re: MY14 DIY Trailer Socket Wiring
 
Nice splicing job. I'm glad you used solder and heatshrink rather than scotcklocs and tape like the auto sparkies like to use. Have you tried glued heatshrink? It's great for weatherproofing stuff like trailer wiring.

Barboots 03-23-2014 08:21 PM

Thanks Bob, but I've got to admit that I didn't use heatshrink... I don't cut the original wiring so it simply can't be put on. The reason behind this is that the cut must shorten the original wire length, which can then result in stress on the joint. Glue filled heatshrink is great though... I'd definitely have used it if it were possible to get it over the exposed work.

My splicing method is as follows:

I run a very sharp knife extremely lightly around the insulation... twice, about 5mm apart. I then bend the wire just a little bit and slice very shallow between these two circumferential cuts to just expose the wire. Usually, you can now pick off the entire bit of insulation between the two cuts, leaving 5mm of exposed copper with no broken strands and no insulation dags to contaminate the solder joint.

I strip around 10mm from the end of the wire being spliced and wrap it around the 5mm of exposed copper, aligning the end of its insulation with one of the ends of the cut out bit of the existing wire. If there is a surplus from the 10mm strip it should be trimmed, and make sure there are no copper strands sticking up from the joint area.

The joint is then soldered using a 60W iron having a 3mm wedge tip, or a gas equivalent. If you overheat the solder it will follow the iron up as you remove it, leaving a spike. Either remove the solder by tapping it away while heated, or using solder wick, or a sucker. Otherwise file the spike off... it's important to get rid of it.

For interior wiring, I just wrap with electrical tape. That said there's tape and there's useless black shit on a roll. I like 3M and Nitto is good too. Stay out of SuperCheap people!

For exterior splices where you don't want to break the original wiring, self-amalgamating tape is a good solution for waterproofing. I was out of the stuff and wanted to finish, so the one exterior splice has some non-acetic cure silicone smeared onto the exposed wire and once it skinned up I taped it. To be balanced, it's worth pointing out that a good soldering job does a lot to stop moisture wicking up the wires. That and choice of location are the key.

Again, there are several ways to do a good job splicing in wires... this is my standard M.O.

Cheers,
Steve


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