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Discussion Starter #1
I have been going through so many discussions and haven't seen exactly what I'm looking for. I'm replacing the 5.7 Hemi in my 05 due to the dreaded valve seat drop. I'd like to go to a newer type engine, but I'm new to hemi motors and I haven't been able to find out the information I need. I know the coil packs will be different and I'm going to purchase a set of wire adapters from Modern Muscle Extreme, apparently they are plug and play. I'm unaware of any intake issues. What I'm most concerned about is the cam and VVT and if they will interfere with the PCM. That being said, I do have a Diablo Sport Trinity 2 that accepts custom tunes.

Any ideas and am I missing anything?

Thanks for any help, because I sure need it.
 

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Welcome to the forum. While going from the early Hemi to a VVT Hemi is possible, it will be a frustrating experience UNLESS you have a donor vehicle to switch/rob parts from. The electronics, electrical plugs, PCM, emissions components and so on are all different. If your engine is completely wasted, you can use 2004-2008 Hemi's and use your parts as needed to make it work. Most dropped valve seats occurred on the 05-06's and a few 07's. There is a gent. on one of these forums that overheated his 08 last year and just recently apparently dropped a valve seat.......the first 08 I've heard of. My recommendation is to fix your 05 and hop it up a little while you're at it. A mild cam, a good header back exhaust system and a good tune can get you about 100 more horsepower and 20+% better fuel economy.

I have two early 5.7's with the engines modified almost exactly the same (see signature) and have gained about 120-130 horsepower and about a 25% increase in highway fuel economy. Within the past couple years, I've also pulled the heads on both and had all the valve seats replaced, ported/polished them and had .030 in. milled off them to increase the compression ratio by about a half point.
 

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Welcome to the forum. While going from the early Hemi to a VVT Hemi is possible, it will be a frustrating experience UNLESS you have a donor vehicle to switch/rob parts from. The electronics, electrical plugs, PCM, emissions components and so on are all different. If your engine is completely wasted, you can use 2004-2008 Hemi's and use your parts as needed to make it work. Most dropped valve seats occurred on the 05-06's and a few 07's. There is a gent. on one of these forums that overheated his 08 last year and just recently apparently dropped a valve seat.......the first 08 I've heard of. My recommendation is to fix your 05 and hop it up a little while you're at it. A mild cam, a good header back exhaust system and a good tune can get you about 100 more horsepower and 20+% better fuel economy.

I have two early 5.7's with the engines modified almost exactly the same (see signature) and have gained about 120-130 horsepower and about a 25% increase in highway fuel economy. Within the past couple years, I've also pulled the heads on both and had all the valve seats replaced, ported/polished them and had .030 in. milled off them to increase the compression ratio by about a half point.
Thanks for the information. I've had mostly GM vehicles, a couple Ford's and a lot of Jeeps, but all my jeeps had either a 360, 4.0 or 4.7. I know a lot about them, but I'm new to the Hemi. No I know if I find an 08 I can use it and add the connectors for the coil packs. I've been looking into headers, but I'd rather go with short pips direct bolt up. The engine is going to kill my budget.
 

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Thanks for the information. I've had mostly GM vehicles, a couple Ford's and a lot of Jeeps, but all my jeeps had either a 360, 4.0 or 4.7. I know a lot about them, but I'm new to the Hemi. No I know if I find an 08 I can use it and add the connectors for the coil packs. I've been looking into headers, but I'd rather go with short pips direct bolt up. The engine is going to kill my budget.
Before I got into Jeeps (now live in Jeep Country), I used to do nothing but GM (Chevys, Cadillacs, Oldsmobiles) and Fords (all Lincolns) and classic Mercedes (mostly 250's and 280's). My first two Jeeps were a 77 Waggie and a 90 Grand Waggie, both with 360's in them. With Chryslers, I started with an 05 Dodge Magnum and the 06 GCO and last year I picked up an 06 300C SRT8 at a good deal (needed minor engine work), and now, for about the last 15 years I am pretty much hooked on the Hemi vehicles.

IMO, if your 05 engine is complete toast, a 2008 would be a great (and not too expensive....under $2000, depending on mileage) change over. About the only thing you'd have to change is the coil wiring. I put the late coils on my 05, so all of my Hemi's would be the same.....great for troubleshooting too if/when needed. The later model (06 and up) coil plugs/pigtails are available, but cost a little more than you'd expect for a plug and a few inches of wire. Almost everything else is pretty much a straight swap over, especially if you get an 08 out of another Jeep. The $$$$, time and frustration saved by NOT going to a later VVT engine, could be put to better use by doing a few good mods. that would deliver more power and fuel economy. All 3 of my Hemi's have aftermarket performance cams, headers and low restriction exhaust systems. They also have adequate tunes (not too radical) and somewhat modified transmissions.....shift kits, modified up and down shift schedules and torque management settings. Just these mods on an otherwise stock 5.7 Hemi will boost your power by about 100 hp. Can't go wrong with a 400+ horsepower 5000 lb. Jeep. Just my opinion.

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for more info. I need all I can get. Do you mind if I pick your brain in the future? I'm still looking for a set of headers, y pipe and catalytic converter that's affordable and not a huge headache to install.
I loved the old wagoneers. Never had one, but I did have a 77 J10 Honcho Levi Blue jeans addition. Loved it and I miss it. Sucked gas like it was free, but it sure was fun.
 

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You won't find much in the way of headers for the early 5.7 Jeeps. My first set, the silver ceramic coated ones, were custom made and used the slightly modified stock "Y" pipe. The black ceramic coated ones are the ones I have on mine now. They came with the high flow cats and will bolt up to a stock or stock type aftermarket cat. back. Unfortunately, none of the good exhaust components are cheap. The only way you may get away for a little less is to find a set of stock early Jeep SRT8 headers and "Y" pipe. All that will bolt right up with some modifications, but the "Y" pipe makes servicing the transmission a little more difficult. The SRT8's use a different transmission than the 5.7's.

If you have any questions, FWIW, I'll try to give you my "uneducated" answers as best I can. I have messed fairly extensively with the early Hemi Jeeps though.

Below are a couple pictures of the late model coil retrofit on my 05 Dodge Magnum. I have since covered those wires with wire loom sleeves. Had to buy 8 plugs/pigtails and splice them in, and also new valve covers and the SOS high output coils. Not a cheap changeover, but if you replace your 05 engine with the 08, all you have to do is switch those coil plugs.

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Discussion Starter #7
Once again, that was much needed info. Thank you so much. This helps me make a much more informed decision and not waste money.
 

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Not to rob the thread but what did you decide on doing B.runner? I'm in roughly the same situation...pulled my heads last year to fix a stripped exhaust manifold bolt and ended up putting a set of reman heads from Clearwater on (I regret that now) in an attempt to avoid the dropped valve seat (160k). Well about 6 months later, I developed a head gasket leak and it tried to overheat. Sucked coolant into my oil. I'm just now getting around to fixing it and am debating on swapping the motor to a 08. Maybe a bad idea so I'm looking for input. I'm thinking the heads I got were crap
 

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Not to rob the thread but what did you decide on doing B.runner? I'm in roughly the same situation...pulled my heads last year to fix a stripped exhaust manifold bolt and ended up putting a set of reman heads from Clearwater on (I regret that now) in an attempt to avoid the dropped valve seat (160k). Well about 6 months later, I developed a head gasket leak and it tried to overheat. Sucked coolant into my oil. I'm just now getting around to fixing it and am debating on swapping the motor to a 08. Maybe a bad idea so I'm looking for input. I'm thinking the heads I got were crap
If it were me, and the only "real" problem was the head gasket, I'd first have the heads checked out to make sure everything is cool with them (they're flat and no cracks anywhere) and then reinstall them. When you reinstalled the reman. heads did you torque them properly? There is a very specific procedure that must be followed when torquing them and, IMO, the first and second torque steps are the most critical to "getting it right". There is also a left and right head gasket (both are not the same) and they must be installed with the side marked, "TOP", facing up. I've done the heads on all 3 of my early Hemi's.....two 5.7's (all new valve seats, ported/polished, new valve springs and .030 in. miles milled off them), and one 6.1 and I've not had any problems with any of them.

My 6.1 destroyed the cam and lifters at 164K (that's another story though) and there was quite a bit of fine metal powder circulating throughout the engine. When I had it apart, I flushed the pan, cut the filter apart to see how much crap was caught by the filter, and put it all back together with a new cam, lifters and a valve job and a magnetic oil drain plug. I did my first oil change at about 500 miles, cut the filter apart again, then ran new oil/filter for another 2000 miles and cut the filter apart again. Now there didn't appear to be any debris in on the filter and I recently just changed the filter only again after 3000 miles (and cut it up again) and added a quart of oil. I now have nearly 9000 fairly hard miles since fixing it (lots of WOT runs) and it works great......better than it did before the fix. Oil pressure is about the same as my two other Hemi's that have a lot less miles on them.....one with 90K and the other with 114K on it. Of all of mine the one with the most mileage on it (the 6.1) doesn't use any oil between changes and the two 5.7's are down a little but, IMO, most of that goes the the crappy PCV System and is caught by the catch cans.

I guess my point is that, if there really isn't that much wrong with yours, it's a relatively easy and not too expensive fix so, unless you like to spend $$$ and do a lot of additional (and not fun) work, I'd opt for the easy, fairly reliable route. Mileage shouldn't be that big of a consideration if the engine has been reasonably cared for over its life and it doesn't burn any or just a small amount of oil between oil changes.
 

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Not to rob the thread but what did you decide on doing B.runner? I'm in roughly the same situation...pulled my heads last year to fix a stripped exhaust manifold bolt and ended up putting a set of reman heads from Clearwater on (I regret that now) in an attempt to avoid the dropped valve seat (160k). Well about 6 months later, I developed a head gasket leak and it tried to overheat. Sucked coolant into my oil. I'm just now getting around to fixing it and am debating on swapping the motor to a 08. Maybe a bad idea so I'm looking for input. I'm thinking the heads I got were crap
I'm currently looking for an 08 motor. Modern Muscle Extreme has direct replacement wires for the coil packs. I'm thinking about getting it running with a used motor for now and building the old one for later. I have the resources and ability. I'll take my time, build the bottom end, then the heads, change the cam, lifters, valves and valve springs. Add high output coils, headers and throttle body. I have a Diablo Sport tuner and I can get custom tunes to match the cam and other parts. I can do it over a year or two instead of spending that much money all at one time. I'm hoping for 500 to 600 hp and that my transmission will hold it. I fear that will be my next project.
 

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I'm currently looking for an 08 motor. Modern Muscle Extreme has direct replacement wires for the coil packs. I'm thinking about getting it running with a used motor for now and building the old one for later. I have the resources and ability. I'll take my time, build the bottom end, then the heads, change the cam, lifters, valves and valve springs. Add high output coils, headers and throttle body. I have a Diablo Sport tuner and I can get custom tunes to match the cam and other parts. I can do it over a year or two instead of spending that much money all at one time. I'm hoping for 500 to 600 hp and that my transmission will hold it. I fear that will be my next project.
Sounds like a good plan to me, especially if you have the room, tools, time and $$$. Have you given much thought yet to your ultimate goals in the modding of the engine? Are you going to stay normally aspirated or go forced induction or NOS? You can fairly easily get to 500 hp. with the NA 5.7 displacement, but you'd need to go to forced induction to get in the 600 hp. range. IMO, driveability would be a big concern, especially if you're going to use it as a daily driver.

I also hear you on the not dumping a ton of cash on it all at once. I thought that would be pretty painful, so I did all my modding over about a nine year period, a little at a time. I think the wife appreciated it too. That's also one of the big reasons I didn't go with forced induction......$5000-7000 in one shot on a now 14 year old vehicle would be a little much, IMO. Also, without a more stout bottom end and forged pistons, it wouldn't be wise to run the amount of boost that would make forced induction worth while....5-7 lbs. vs. 14-16 lbs.

As far as the transmission goes, with a few relatively simple, inexpensive mods, you should be good up to about 500 hp. Above that you'd probably have to upgrade it. I've been running mine for almost 10 years set up with better up/down shift schedules and torque management settings without issue. It makes it a completely different transmission. I am now pondering trying to install a 2008 PCM/TCM, so I can further improve its performance using my HP Tuner. The HPT didn't start covering the 545RFE until 2007 so your 05 and my 06 can't benefit, mostly because we can't control torque converter slip. I've modified TC slip on both my LX vehicles with NAG1 vehicles and it makes a pretty fair difference.
 

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If I ever wind up doing 6.1, that's about exactly what I would do. Shoupd be an awesome setup.

Yes, I torqued the heads properly, used new tty bolts, gaskets installed properly. I finally went and picked up a engine hoist the other day so hopefully I'll get around to pulling the motor thie week. No it isnt necessary but it's so much easier to work with the engine on a stand, not to mention I need new motor mounts and plan on doing the diff bushings while I'm in there. Also need a bell housing gasket. Now, I'm hoping this is the problem: I read where a well known jeeper posted about these blocks leaking with anything other than mopar head gaskets. I know I bought a set of felpro mls and a set of mopar but I csnt for the life of me remember which set is on it. Hopefully it's just the gasket. I'm going to have the heads checked for cracks and have the block checked. I dont recall any major nicks or dings on the block last time I had the heads off. Long story short, I'm going to fix the leaking gasket and forgo the daydreaming I did a few days ago about a 6.1 lol just isnt worth the $$ at this point. Thanks for the responses guys!
 

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Ditto on the diablo also. I got the i3 a few years ago and man did that thing make a huge difference. Nearly eliminated the throttle lag, cut off that mds, and between the tune and the regular 50k mile maintenance parts, my milage went from 8-9 to 17-18 hwy. Definitely worth its weight.
 

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If I ever wind up doing 6.1, that's about exactly what I would do. Shoupd be an awesome setup.

Yes, I torqued the heads properly, used new tty bolts, gaskets installed properly. I finally went and picked up a engine hoist the other day so hopefully I'll get around to pulling the motor thie week. No it isnt necessary but it's so much easier to work with the engine on a stand, not to mention I need new motor mounts and plan on doing the diff bushings while I'm in there. Also need a bell housing gasket. Now, I'm hoping this is the problem: I read where a well known jeeper posted about these blocks leaking with anything other than mopar head gaskets. I know I bought a set of felpro mls and a set of mopar but I csnt for the life of me remember which set is on it. Hopefully it's just the gasket. I'm going to have the heads checked for cracks and have the block checked. I dont recall any major nicks or dings on the block last time I had the heads off. Long story short, I'm going to fix the leaking gasket and forgo the daydreaming I did a few days ago about a 6.1 lol just isnt worth the $$ at this point. Thanks for the responses guys!
I like your plan on the 6.1. If I ever have to pull either of my 5.7 engines for any reason, it'll be getting AT LEAST at 6.1, most likely something a little bigger....392, 410 or something like that, but based on the 5.7 block. It'll be easier that way, as the heads on both of my 5.7's have all new valve seats, are ported and polished and have .030 in. milled off them. I will say that the difference between the 5.7 and 6.1.....just 25 cu. in. makes a big difference in engine torque. I have both a 5.7 Magnum and 6.1 300C and they both have very similar cams (timing/lift/duration/LSA), exhaust systems, heads on 6.1 have slightly bigger valves, vehicle weights, transmissions, differential gear ratios, etc. and, the 6.1's earlier and smoother onset of torque makes it very pleasurable to drive at all RPM, especially the lower RPM ranges. The overall performance of both is very close though and the 5.7, with the limited slip differential could possibly win in the quarter mile, IF it could get the 6.1 off the line. Having the better low end torque can be both a blessing and a curse on the 6.1, but only because the differential in it is not a limited slip and I can spin the tires forever with it, even with the traction control on. The 5.7, with the LSD spins a little but, IMO, lacks the almost instant low end torque of the 6.1, even though the 5.7's cam is advanced 10 degrees to move the torque curve to a slightly lower RPM. Traction shouldn't be a problem on our Jeeps though if your were to do something like that..

IMO, you're doing it right too in changing the motor mounts, differential bushings, etc. while the engine is out. If you haven't already, be sure to change all 4 of the O2 Sensors too. Use only NTK made by NGK, as some of the other brands cause problems on Chrysler vehicles......just ask me. Also, I used the Felpro Top End Gasket Kit from RockAuto (about $200 each, IIRC) on both of my 5.7's without issue, so you shouldn't have a problem with your head gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sounds like a good plan to me, especially if you have the room, tools, time and $$$. Have you given much thought yet to your ultimate goals in the modding of the engine? Are you going to stay normally aspirated or go forced induction or NOS? You can fairly easily get to 500 hp. with the NA 5.7 displacement, but you'd need to go to forced induction to get in the 600 hp. range. IMO, driveability would be a big concern, especially if you're going to use it as a daily driver.

I also hear you on the not dumping a ton of cash on it all at once. I thought that would be pretty painful, so I did all my modding over about a nine year period, a little at a time. I think the wife appreciated it too. That's also one of the big reasons I didn't go with forced induction......$5000-7000 in one shot on a now 14 year old vehicle would be a little much, IMO. Also, without a more stout bottom end and forged pistons, it wouldn't be wise to run the amount of boost that would make forced induction worth while....5-7 lbs. vs. 14-16 lbs.

As far as the transmission goes, with a few relatively simple, inexpensive mods, you should be good up to about 500 hp. Above that you'd probably have to upgrade it. I've been running mine for almost 10 years set up with better up/down shift schedules and torque management settings without issue. It makes it a completely different transmission. I am now pondering trying to install a 2008 PCM/TCM, so I can further improve its performance using my HP Tuner. The HPT didn't start covering the 545RFE until 2007 so your 05 and my 06 can't benefit, mostly because we can't control torque converter slip. I've modified TC slip on both my LX vehicles with NAG1 vehicles and it makes a pretty fair difference.

I finally purchased an 08 motor. I replaced most of the seals, gaskets spark plugs, idler and a few other parts. I purchased a set of wiring adapters from Modern Muscle Extreme to change over from single tower coil packs to dual tower and I just purchased a set of long tube headers from ARH. Ouch! After seeing all the issues with broken exhaust manifold studs and seeing them in mine also, I decided to fix that problem once and for all. The horsepower gain will be nice and I'm installing them while I'm replacing the motor. This also allows me to go with a better intake and larger throttle body. I'll let you know how this goes. I'm still trying to find torque specs for the exhaust, oil pan and pickup tube.
 

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Here's a few hints for you, FWIW, but first how are the headers configured....tubing size, w/wo cats, 5.7 or 6.1 flanges, EGR port or not?
---On the ARH's, use a good quality flange head bolt....17 of them, 8mm-1.25X25mm.
---Use Percy's Dead Soft Aluminum Reuseable header flange gaskets, P/N 66040. These will fit both 5.7's and 6.1's. If you want 5.7's, the P/N is 66075. (double check all no's. Also shop around. I found the best price at Autozone.com.
---Use Nord Lock wedge washers if you don't want them to come loose somewhere down the line. All 3 of my Hemi's with headers have them. Here's a video on how they work:
You can and should use a little anti-seize with these bolts/washers. They'll only come loose when you loosen them. I didn't follow the torque spec. because it''s not stock....I just tightened them tight with about a 6-7 in box end wrench....make sure the gaskets are crushed good...which they will be.
---You'll probably need some de-foulers between the downstream O2's and the bungs in the headers, otherwise, you'll probably start getting P0420 and P0430 DTC's.
---As far as the intake goes, use the stock airbox and add another air inlet and pick up an Airaid Junior Intake Tube to replace the big silencer. Also use a low restriction air filter element.....AFE, K and N, etc. Remove the drain cup at the bottom of the airbox, mount an aluminum duct in its place and route it to somewhere behind the grill. Be sure to punch a little hole in the duct at its lowest point so any water/moisture can drain and not find its way into the airbox.
---You may also want to add an Inlet Air Temperature Sensor from a 392 Challenger....P/N5149279AB. It's longer and samples air from the center of the tube as opposed to the stock one that samples air from close to the intake tube wall.
---You won't gain much with a larger throttle body, Even the 6.1's use the same one that's on the 5.7's....80mm. I have bigger ones all all three of my Hemi's and, at best the throttle response is a little better, but probably not much of an increase in power (even with my mods), especially if you're otherwise stock.....no cam or bigger heads, etc.

HAVE FUN!!!

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Discussion Starter #17
Here's a few hints for you, FWIW, but first how are the headers configured....tubing size, w/wo cats, 5.7 or 6.1 flanges, EGR port or not?
---On the ARH's, use a good quality flange head bolt....17 of them, 8mm-1.25X25mm.
---Use Percy's Dead Soft Aluminum Reuseable header flange gaskets, P/N 66040. These will fit both 5.7's and 6.1's. If you want 5.7's, the P/N is 66075. (double check all no's. Also shop around. I found the best price at Autozone.com.
---Use Nord Lock wedge washers if you don't want them to come loose somewhere down the line. All 3 of my Hemi's with headers have them. Here's a video on how they work:
You can and should use a little anti-seize with these bolts/washers. They'll only come loose when you loosen them. I didn't follow the torque spec. because it''s not stock....I just tightened them tight with about a 6-7 in box end wrench....make sure the gaskets are crushed good...which they will be.
---You'll probably need some de-foulers between the downstream O2's and the bungs in the headers, otherwise, you'll probably start getting P0420 and P0430 DTC's.
---As far as the intake goes, use the stock airbox and add another air inlet and pick up an Airaid Junior Intake Tube to replace the big silencer. Also use a low restriction air filter element.....AFE, K and N, etc. Remove the drain cup at the bottom of the airbox, mount an aluminum duct in its place and route it to somewhere behind the grill. Be sure to punch a little hole in the duct at its lowest point so any water/moisture can drain and not find its way into the airbox.
---You may also want to add an Inlet Air Temperature Sensor from a 392 Challenger....P/N5149279AB. It's longer and samples air from the center of the tube as opposed to the stock one that samples air from close to the intake tube wall.
---You won't gain much with a larger throttle body, Even the 6.1's use the same one that's on the 5.7's....80mm. I have bigger ones all all three of my Hemi's and, at best the throttle response is a little better, but probably not much of an increase in power (even with my mods), especially if you're otherwise stock.....no cam or bigger heads, etc.

HAVE FUN!!!

View attachment 226129
Thanks for all the info. I had already purchased a Volant cold air intake for a 6.1. It works great, made an enormous difference in the engine. The air sensor is definitely too short. I ordered the ARH headers for the 05 Grand Cherokee 5.7. They came with the cats and the EGR tube, 1 3/4" primaries and 3" collectors and I believe 5.7 ports. I'm thinking about going with the 87mm throttle body and ported intake manifold. I'm thinking both would work more efficiently than just a throttle body. I keep finding more awesome stuff for these motors. Of course not all of it is worth the price or time to install it. I'm already planning my next motor. I'm definitely going to upgrade the cam, heads and do the MDS delete. I'll probably go with a set of ported heads. I'm also looking for a set of injectors for this motor. I bought some Bosch 12 hole for my 4.0 jeep and they made a huge difference in fuel mileage and I noticed it was a little quicker off the line. I use to build Chevys, Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles. I didn't have this much fun with them, although, when I get done with this Jeep, I have a convertible Firebird that will get a lot of love and partial restoration. I'm going to get try to get 500 HP out of it. When I get done with that, I have an 87 El Camino that needs help. I have a turbo 400, but I'm thinking it may get a built 700R4 trans that's been updated. Not sure what I'll do for a motor yet. My wife is going to kill me. I found a fairly low mileage 5.7 Grand Cherokee Overland 4x4 for a decent price. I might ought to get it for her so she'll have her own and won't want mine.
 

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Thanks for all the info. I had already purchased a Volant cold air intake for a 6.1. It works great, made an enormous difference in the engine. The air sensor is definitely too short. I ordered the ARH headers for the 05 Grand Cherokee 5.7. They came with the cats and the EGR tube, 1 3/4" primaries and 3" collectors and I believe 5.7 ports. I'm thinking about going with the 87mm throttle body and ported intake manifold. I'm thinking both would work more efficiently than just a throttle body. I keep finding more awesome stuff for these motors. Of course not all of it is worth the price or time to install it. I'm already planning my next motor. I'm definitely going to upgrade the cam, heads and do the MDS delete. I'll probably go with a set of ported heads. I'm also looking for a set of injectors for this motor. I bought some Bosch 12 hole for my 4.0 jeep and they made a huge difference in fuel mileage and I noticed it was a little quicker off the line. I use to build Chevys, Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles. I didn't have this much fun with them, although, when I get done with this Jeep, I have a convertible Firebird that will get a lot of love and partial restoration. I'm going to get try to get 500 HP out of it. When I get done with that, I have an 87 El Camino that needs help. I have a turbo 400, but I'm thinking it may get a built 700R4 trans that's been updated. Not sure what I'll do for a motor yet. My wife is going to kill me. I found a fairly low mileage 5.7 Grand Cherokee Overland 4x4 for a decent price. I might ought to get it for her so she'll have her own and won't want mine.
I had some more questions about the studs and washers. Did you you a specific grade Nord Lock? Also, ARH sent manifold studs or bolts, not sure which one yet because I haven't looked. Would you use them with the Nord Locks?
 
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