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Looks very familiar to me......been there, done that. Back in about 2006-07 I went through this same routine (actually way more than you've gone so far) with my 05 Hemi Magnum and ultimately determined it to be a lost cause. Yes, your intake air temperature (IAT) will be higher under all the conditions you've said, but almost the instant you stomp on it the ambient and IAT's will be identical. On mine the IAT sensor was right next to the throttle body, not like on the WK's...at least the early WK's. Some of the things I did were to mount a remote reading thermometer in the airbox, tried numerous configurations of intake tubes......vented, insulated, double wall insulated, insulated air box and cover, etc. I was also going to mount a small fan to direct cold air between the walls of the intake tube....too much work though. I even went so far as to make my own "Power Wire", except mine was fully adjustable so I could "fool" the PCM into believing any temperature I set the IAT Sensor to. The adjustable IAT Sensor is the only thing that "MAYBE" made a difference, but it was so small that I couldn't say for sure if it really worked. I would monitor the IAT and timing while slowly manipulating the temperatures. This is the only IAT mod. that I still have installed and I usually set it to about 25-30 degrees below ambient. If I move it too fast, it'll trigger a MIL.

Bottom line, IMO, don't waste your time on this one, as you won't be able to completely beat the engine "heat soak", and any differences you come up with won't do much for engine performance.

What I have found works the best is to add another inlet into the airbox that draws cold air from behind the grill. Having the IAT Sensor close to the airbox (like the WK's) is also a lot better than it was on the early Hemi vehicles.
 
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Discussion Starter #82
Looks very familiar to me......been there, done that. Back in about 2006-07 I went through this same routine (actually way more than you've gone so far) with my 05 Hemi Magnum and ultimately determined it to be a lost cause. Yes, your intake air temperature (IAT) will be higher under all the conditions you've said, but almost the instant you stomp on it the ambient and IAT's will be identical. On mine the IAT sensor was right next to the throttle body, not like on the WK's...at least the early WK's. Some of the things I did were to mount a remote reading thermometer in the airbox, tried numerous configurations of intake tubes......vented, insulated, double wall insulated, insulated air box and cover, etc. I was also going to mount a small fan to direct cold air between the walls of the intake tube....too much work though. I even went so far as to make my own "Power Wire", except mine was fully adjustable so I could "fool" the PCM into believing any temperature I set the IAT Sensor to. The adjustable IAT Sensor is the only thing that "MAYBE" made a difference, but it was so small that I couldn't say for sure if it really worked. I would monitor the IAT and timing while slowly manipulating the temperatures. This is the only IAT mod. that I still have installed and I usually set it to about 25-30 degrees below ambient. If I move it too fast, it'll trigger a MIL.

Bottom line, IMO, don't waste your time on this one, as you won't be able to completely beat the engine "heat soak", and any differences you come up with won't do much for engine performance.

What I have found works the best is to add another inlet into the airbox that draws cold air from behind the grill. Having the IAT Sensor close to the airbox (like the WK's) is also a lot better than it was on the early Hemi vehicles.


Thanks for the info, interesting trial and error changes, very cool. Yeah, I'm not expecting huge gains, but I figure that cooler air in is better overall. I will say that objectively it is cooler, today at 91 ambient, riding at 65mph over a 20 minute drive, it stayed at 96-97 on IAT reading. Not huge changes, but I like the cooler temps overall. I do notice that in town it stays quite a bit cooler, which is good in stop/go traffic.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
UPDATE: Catch can catch... After 10 weeks...
IMG_7470.JPG


Apparently I over tightened last time, so had to take the can off of the support arm to loosen with a tool... real fun.


The cool cover around the modular intake tube/air box is working well, keeping IAT between 6-8 degrees from ambient temps at interstate/highway running speeds.

Just picked up NTK oxygen sensors to replace the old ones that I think are having issues (have been getting the p0420 code for 4 years, off/on, but starting to occur more frequently). Plan to have my mechanic install them on 9/30... hope to see some mpg improvement as well.
 

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That's why we have them. The foul dino. oil sludge was very apparent in the intake ports when I pulled the heads off of my 5.7 to have the valve seats replaced. It was like gummy crude oil. There was no catch can on it for about the first 49K of its life. When I did the heads on my 5.7 LX (I bought new and had a catch can on it with synthetic oil since about 5K.....now has 89K on it), the intake ports were almost totally clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
UPDATE: Took the Jeep to the mechanic to have some things checked out, as follows:

1. Squealing sound on turning wheels at start up and go... Rear Solenoid Replaced (much more quiet now)

2. Coolant leak/overheating... Water Pump Replaced(definitely staying cooler when driving in the city)

3. Replaced all four O2 sensors... Running nice and smooth... Will be interesting to see if this stops the p0420 code (maybe)... Overall should improve efficiency

4. Tire rotation/alignment


Overall, it is running well/smooth...
 

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UPDATE: Catch can catch... After 10 weeks...
View attachment 219267

Apparently I over tightened last time, so had to take the can off of the support arm to loosen with a tool... real fun.


The cool cover around the modular intake tube/air box is working well, keeping IAT between 6-8 degrees from ambient temps at interstate/highway running speeds.

Just picked up NTK oxygen sensors to replace the old ones that I think are having issues (have been getting the p0420 code for 4 years, off/on, but starting to occur more frequently). Plan to have my mechanic install them on 9/30... hope to see some mpg improvement as well.

Wow, that is an awful lot of blowby for 10 weeks. Mine collects a spoonful in that amount of time, 150k on the motor and rev it all the time. With cold temps around the corner, it fills quickly with condensate and thick goo at the bottom from mixing with water, so check it often, as it runs poorly when filled to the brim. I empty mine every 3-4 weeks in winter, and it's about half full.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
UPDATE: Catch can at 8 weeks/oil change today...
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Also... had new O2 sensors installed recently, and the p0420 code hasn't returned... So, fingers crossed it doesn't return
 

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Discussion Starter #90
UPDATE: So, I decided to give the blend door issue a go.... Unfortunately not only was the gear broke on the motor, but the connection/gear on the blend door itself was completely stripped and half of it was missing, so the fix is a no go. Decided to take the motor out since it wasn't actually doing anything, and I hoped that the loud click was from that motor turning with the broken gear(goes off every time I turn the car on, for about 15-20 seconds... Does it again about 5 minutes after you turn the engine off)... Unfortunately the click seems to be something else, as it happened again when I tried turning the heater on again .... Not sure what?..... About two hours down the drain....
IMG_7687.jpg
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Discussion Starter #91
UPDATE: So, I decided to give the blend door issue a go.... Unfortunately not only was the gear broke on the motor, but the connection/gear on the blend door itself was completely stripped and half of it was missing, so the fix is a no go. Decided to take the motor out since it wasn't actually doing anything, and I hoped that the loud click was from that motor turning with the broken gear(goes off every time I turn the car on, for about 15-20 seconds... Does it again about 5 minutes after you turn the engine off)... Unfortunately the click seems to be something else, as it happened again when I tried turning the heater on again .... Not sure what?..... About two hours down the drain.... View attachment 220673 View attachment 220672
And a pic of the broken actuator gear...
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Very typical. New and better ones are available. They're inexpensive enough so that I bought two (just in case) gears. Haven't had a problem since. Also, I had a "fore warning" as I could hear a clicking noise coming from that side when the blend doors were operated.
 
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Discussion Starter #93
Very typical. New and better ones are available. They're inexpensive enough so that I bought two (just in case) gears. Haven't had a problem since. Also, I had a "fore warning" as I could hear a clicking noise coming from that side when the blend doors were operated.
Do you know of any fix for the arm that the actuator gear turns... The one on the blend door itself? Unfortunately, not only did the gear break, but the arm that the gear turns (the white nub in the pic above). Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
UPDATE: I figured I would see what my MPG is at interstate speeds (cruise control at 60 mph), for 8 miles...
IMG_7701.jpg

And then...a further 3 miles at 45mph on cruise control...
IMG_7709.jpg
 

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Do you know of any fix for the arm that the actuator gear turns... The one on the blend door itself? Unfortunately, not only did the gear break, but the arm that the gear turns (the white nub in the pic above). Thanks.
Sorry I don't. I guess I caught mine before it messed up anything else. I know there are folks that have had problems like this and have figured out ways to make it work without having to get a whole new heater box assembly.

Your mileage is getting better but, IMO, you still need more mods. With my mods., I almost never get under 20 mpg (unless there's a stiff head wind) and usually get 21-23 mpg on the highway, running in 4th gear between 63-67 mph. KEEP ON MODDING!!
 
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Discussion Starter #96
UPDATE: Decided to install an EMP Shield. The premise for the use of this device is to protect the electrical system from a burst of energy such as a lightning strike or EMP.

Found a suitable install location next to the battery (secured with zip ties)...
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Next, I installed the ground wire to the chassis...
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And then attached the positive wire to the + connector for the battery...
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And then the negative wire to the - connector for the battery...
View attachment 220871
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Finally got the overhead view of the device (EMP Shield) and battery to upload, with the green light indicator shown...
IMG_7736.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #99
UPDATE: My driver's side low beam bulb started to flicker... Then would only stay on for about 30 seconds... So, purchased 2 new HID bulbs (Philips D1S, xenon) and started the replacement... Was not easy... Minimal room too work... Quite the headache... but success...

Old driver's side bulb out (had to take battery out/moved the EMP Shield)
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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
New Philips bulb...
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Repeated process on the passenger side... Even less room... Was able to work around the air box... Just barely...
 
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